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The A/C pipe shouldn't get hot if it's far out from the supercharger. Instead of adding another fan, you can wrap the pipe in some thermal insulator wrap to make it easy for you. I have a 14" fan in front of the AC condensor. lol. You'll need a separate relay if you'll add another fan. The...

For wideband sensor, it should be in front of any catalytic converter. Also, it should be where all 4 exhaust holes meet together, but not too close to the exhaust holes to avoid the concentrated heat that can damage the sensor. The good spot is where the stock sensor is. Make sure not to put it...

Yep. I misunderstood indeed. Lol. That FMU looks similar to what I used. You'll need to put the OEM fuel pressure regulator back to connect to this FMU. If you still have the rich fuel issue, then let's go back and do 1 step at a time to find out where the issue is, such as using only OEM...

If you have 4 big injectors and 4 OEM injectors, then the rich fuel issue still is still present. Removing the O2 sensor causes the check engine light, but I don't think it causes rough idle/running. First of all is to make sure the fuel isn't rich. You checked the sparkplugs and that's a good...

Sean is right on. If you're on a budget, try to put back the stock injectors and install the FMU 12:1 along with big fuel pump. That setup should handle 6-7 psi of boost with ease. It'll run smooth like stock with more power. I had that fuel setup and boosted at 9 psi for a long time without...

Aren't most of us have overkill projects and parts? Big supercharger for middle power level engine, big fuel injectors that only need to work 70% of them, bullet proof ignition system...etc. lol

Try to shorten the line of the bypass valve as much as possible, so it can sense the extra boost immediately.

I know what you're saying about the boost gauge reading weird. I had that happened before. I connected it after the throttle plate and it read vacuum with no boost. I then connected before the throttle plate and it read from 0 to positive boost. I think it's because of a boost gauge because I...

For the temp sensor, I tap into the nut right above the thermostat housing and plug the fan temp sensor there. I get higher reading and the fans start sooner. Before this setup, I made a T out of the radiator's temps sensor and plugged the fan sensor there. It got lower reading, so the fans...

Very nice! You can start producing and selling them. lol.

50 psi of fuel pressure at idle is high. The stock setting is about 40 psi. My car has it adjusted at 20 psi.

That turbo spooling sound will constantly turn you on. And you'll either need to roll down the window or turn on the A/C all the time to cool the turbo heat. lol.

I'd think the same that the rough idle is due to the rich fuel from the 315 cc injectors. But you're almost there. Besides the A/F gauge, an addition of the boost gauge will be helpful to monitor the boost. If you have a high stall torque converter, it'll be a perfect match. Next would be the...

Any link to that project? Keep in mind that rear mounted turbo has limitations of convenience. It doesn't allow to go in the rain nor dusty areas. Other than that, just do it if that's your only option. lol.

Without rubber to insulate metal to metal, it'll transfer all vibrations from the engine to the entire car. And it vibrates, it'll create noise, too. Solid mounts are more for track cars.

I know what you mean. Once, I hung my exhaust directly to the underneath frame and it rattles the whole car. Lol.

Motivation is the key to all progresses. There're not too many projects like this going on these days. :D

You'll need bigger forged rods for sure. The VVTI rods are skinny.

That's a nice initial number. :) When can I see the final number?

It's progressing! I'd like to see the dyno number. :) I need you a favor. Can you take the closer and detailed pictures of the connections around the canister, heater valve (circle) and the vaculum lines that go to the other side (circle)? I just want to make sure I got mine right.