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Thinking about it, I have a VAGCOM cable somewhere. What freeware do you use with it?

Well, it's a track car, the only time it goes on the public highway is getting to and from trackdays, so it's not like it spends a lot of time at idle in it's normal MO. It's either driving steadily on the road or being nailed on the track. I'm not going to be transitioning from being stationary...

I'm a relative nube as well, although one step ahead as I've bought my engine :) When I started digging I got all the same basics as you - early motors are stronger, later ones lighter internals but weaker, very late ones got VVTi. I went for the VVTi because, out of the box, as is, it's a...

Probably best to use a stock resistor then, I guess. They're about £20 from a breaker. By the time I've bought something new with heatsinks etc, it's not worth trying to fab something. Just annoying that I binned mine! I won't be using the Toyota pump though. I'll be keeping the MX5 (Miata)...

OK - cheers. Here's an XHorse one in a nice case PM also on the way....

Thanks, cribbj. So worth keeping, but not for emissions particularly. I've "copied" the stock wiring with regards the Circuit Open and Fuel Pump relays and their triggers from FPR and FC etc, although currently (no pun intended) my "resistor" is a piece of wire, as the original one got binned...

Thanks, George. Port is wired up to +B (via 7.5A fuse), CG and SIL. Any recommendations on software that will work best with my ELM327 cable? Or recommendations on a handheld scanner?

Cats and O2 sensors aren't a problem

Even on a 1998 VVTi?

Thanks :) My main concern would be MOT testing of idle emissions.

When I got the donor, I reprogrammed a spare key for it, which involved opening and closing the door, pressing the pedals and putting the key in and out. Is this all still possible without a lot of the body loom? IIRC, the door opening bit was for the remote keyfob, which I don't need. I...

So, I'm trying to get my OBDII port up and running. As I understand it, the OBD Port is Data Link Connector 3 Following the wiring diagrams, I see there should be 4 pins wired up on the plug: pin 7 - SIL (with a grounded shield) pin 16 - +12V pin 4 - CG (grounded) pin 5 - SG (grounded) I...

Does anyone get overfuelling issues on idle by running 12V to the pump all he time? As I understand it, the ECU should drop the pump rate on idle by running it through a resistor. Or does it not matter because it's running in closed loop and so the ECU will trim fuel?

A quick update to my own thread :) Engine is up and running, so things look good so far, and it seems to just be Toyota changing the wire colours, but the pin locations appear to be consistent.

We have a runner! :D http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_vuFNjOEeQ Thanks for not spoon feeding me the solution, George. And thank you, Vince, for the diagrams. My plan had been to strip back the main loom, as you know, but with a little guidance and a volt meter, I now know so much more about...

So, I've taken the plunge and cut off the three plugs (E11, E15 and E16) from my loom and will be wiring these from scratch. I have a pinout diagram for the ECU, and the plugs all match up, as do most of the colours. Was there ever any variation in the VVTi ECUs? Or is it just Toyota changing...

Many thanks, George. And the separate 26 pin (big white plug with a black lever / clamp) - do I not need this?

OK, so if I were to start from scratch, you recon leave the 3 ECU plugs that run through to the engine as is, and then cut off the other 3 plugs, and start wiring those 3 in from scratch? There's a separate piece of loom with, IIRC, a 26 pin plug, that runs through the bulkhead in the same place...

I am, but at the moment I have this nest of wires that I'm trying to sort out, and knowing I can cut out the white/black and re-ground them later is useful in untangling.

Thanks, Vince - should make life simpler :) That's the port under the bonnet (as opposed to the OBDII port under the dash)?