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Oh..once it starts from cold it keeps the revs up as it should(but after blipping the throttle)

1995.no cold start injector type.been perfect apart from knock sensor fault which has now cleared itself. Untill last night and this morning..starter wizzes it around but no start for ages.fine when warm.suspecting iacv not opening..yet iacv is working..was perfect 2 days ago!. Have fuel so...

Just to confuse matters it stopped now....sigh...

Lol.... No it aint that type of noise...might av to rig up a nic on a magnet and try that on varoius places..

So..no ideas on how to find it other than waiting for something to break..lol

Yes i no..impossible looking really for ideas on how to find!.no noise untill ragging it.. Cant afford rolling road at moment. So open to any suggestions.. Its not pulleys..

i know ..near on impossible to diagnois on here...but.. on heavy power..not always..but say at 5000rpm on full boost i get a hidious noise..at first thought it was severe pinking (knock)..but now i dont..(the engine aint blown up yet!!lol!!) sounds like a cog rubbing on metal.(thought it might...

thats same as mine,,except you got bigger s/c pulley so getting more wrap.. cleaned the belt up..seems to be ok for now..possible contamination?

sequential injection...no single point lpg crap...very cheap now..no backfires ever again..

its a v8 4l...i get 15 on gas...wont get much any better..mines manual too..mines sequential injection..yours sounds single point.. and a picture of what done..

any other suggestions...so many out there!! but still leaning ms3..

Narrowed down choise to spitronic or ms..cost at present is an issue.. Ms does more but will be harder to set up.spit is cheap easy to setup but lacking in.. Full sequential injection and using wasted spark if i lose my dizzys.. What in the real world will running semi sequential mean...

hi..finally had enough of running stock ecu on my supercharged 1uz..(poor fueling..poor ignition timing..poor fuel economy..crapperformance on propane..etc0 so..i think ms3 is the one for me..mainly i must admit due to cost..and wanting to keep full sequential..(1995 uk 1uz-fe) i need it to...

Update.. It works..i joined knock sensor 1 to 2 at ecu with 0.1uf ceramic disc cap.. No codes as of yet.500miles or varied driving...good bodge..also no pinking heard.have full power...

see my other thread,but i have a code 52..its intermitent..i expect loom.. but as i really really dont want to strip dowm lpg system,super charger..etc.i was wondering..... if for now i cut knock sensor 1 wire at ecu and connect ecu knock input up to knock sensor 2 via a capacitor,say 0.1uf...

bugger.....

UPDATE... went tits up again.... turns out trim was out too much on lpg sytem(too weak) was tuned for economy,recalidrated lpg now petrol side is not trying to pull rich..sorted..ecu retrimmed itself .

just started to bring up ecu light and shows 52 ..knock sensor 1...tis a 95 uc20 (2nd gen uk car engine) fitted in range rover..is supercharged.. now..how reliable are the toyota knock sensors..i expecy very!! so..where is number 1 knock sensor mounted?and more importantly where do the leads to...

you know 2nd gen rods snap at 375 hp or so?? and why not suck air though maf..so sees cold air??

i run m112..cost £250 new..ebay. the rest i made..bought new belt,and a couple of pulleys and decent afterarket fuel reg...so about £350 all in....ebay is your friend. now 2 yrs old...runs fine,though getting belt slip now..maybe time for a new belt.. running 8psi cos on standard ecu and now...