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These transmissions are actually used in a lot of vehicles including Jeep, Mitsubishi, some Volvo, but as mentioned the variables run such that you will have issues if parts are swapped around to try and adapt things. Maybe the mounts will bolt right up though?

Any updates on this interesting project?

Jibby, are you running a "wet" N2o setup? Stock injectors? A mandrel bent tube has a constant cross-sectional dimension, no crushing from the bending process, what is likely is that even though your system is 2-1/2", the muffler shop bender has closed it down just a bit, which probably helps...

Yep, he speaks the truth. Your workin' on a chimney fiarrr.

Have you looked at the air filter lately? Is it dirty, and needs replacement?

Even more of a reason to stay with the stock unit is that the engine control computer may remain in cold-mode, without many of the features that help with efficiency, smooth running, etc., also known as open loop. This is more of a default mode, and is what the computer will also turn to when...

The power curve could be a result of tuning done for reliability, or just that the car was maybe spinning the tires on the dyno. Very nice car, well done, and you can't buy one unless you build one!

The power curve could be a result of tuning done for reliability, or just that the car was maybe spinning the tires on the dyno.

Yup, also muffler design is more crucial than the pipe size, to an extent of course. All of the stock U.S. spec SC mufflers are straight thru, no baffles, so that's a bonus, but the stock system has a bottleneck where the down pipes come together; they pinched the tubes at the "Y". I am making...

I guess true racing oils are just re-bottled K-Mart oils huh? Sounds like you guys know a lot about oil.

I found a sliver-portion of what appeared to be a pinion gear lobe attached to the magnetic plug. Hmmmmmmmm. This was only an eighth of an inch wide by a half inch long, but I wonder what the future now holds for these parts? Anyone here destroy these parts on their SC400 before? I don't...

We have a "3D Printer" at work that is very handy for prototypes, gives us a glimpse of what the future has to offer in terms of crafts, or even products/innovation where people will make many things,ie appliance repair parts, or whatever from a file in their home.

You guys in NZ get all the good stuff; that's where my favorite oil addtive is from. I have been using Mobil 1 0W-40 with 5% Powerup anti wear additive. I wouldn't mind trying the Shell helix to see how it compares to what I'm using, at least in terms of power added. Oil is just plain oil...

You need to first verify that the fuel pressure is adequate, I would probably try and remove the cold start injector and use that supply line for attaching a pressure guage. I have not had to check for pressure on these cars, maybe someone else has a better way?

It all helps, one thing I noticed with the stock systems was that there is an intended restriction at the Y pipe that contributes to the quietness a bunch. Just getting rid of that will help the flow greatly, along with creating some more noise of course. The stock dual cats aren't very...

Tooling for fiberglass,carbon parts; so pretty much unlimited automotive uses. I have seen cam covers made from kevlar/epoxy. There is a nice intake manifold made for Porsche 928 engines made from carbon/epoxy. Ever want to re-body a moderately styled car with excellent mechanicals?

My four cylinder Corolla engine has that pretty bad, ground them down a bunch, helped a lot. I had also stream-lined the guides as well. If I ever had a chance to remove the heads on the V8, I would start by doing the same, without removal if the stem to guide fit was still decent.

I have recently been re-introduced to this process; I used to make small, detailed orthopedic aids for a Doctor using this material, but an associate at my work has shown me where the technology has gone in the last few years. Think of the way fiberglass/epoxy casting, mold making and plug...

Never had a problem, but everything in the welding literature has always mentioned removing the terminals.

Try doing an ecu re-set by removing the main fuse to the computer, or just remove the battery terminal if you're not patient. Extra timing advance will help things run better; maybe it's time to step up to a piggyback that will control that also, like Unichip, or SplitSecond.