V8 Supra MK3 1UZ Twin Turbo from Germany

[Speeedy]

Fluidyne Radiator

Some pics of the Fluidyne Radiator...








Radiator + two SPAL high flow fans

 

[the ghoul]

Some pics of the Fluidyne Radiator...

im assuming thats the 86-92 supra 38mm one right?
hows it hadeling all the extra heat?

 

[Speeedy]

im assuming thats the 86-92 supra 38mm one right?
hows it hadeling all the extra heat?

Yes, that's the 86-92 supra radiator. Up to know I have not the best results with this radiator when it's hot outside (about 25-30°C).But don't forget that there is only a distance of about 5cm between the radiator and the turbine housings and the downpipe. I think I have to cut some more "windows" into my hood to give the hot air a chance to leave the engine bay immediately.
And I'm going to change my cooling water resp. the frost protection fluid and check if I get better results. Now I have the G48 from BASF and I will switch to G30 alu protect premium (from BASF too). Our experience with a stock 2JZ-GTE showed us that we had about 15°C colder cooling water after switching from G48 to G30 only.
I will give you a feedback about the water temp in a few month...(we have to wait for summer time )

Alex

 

[milisakeracing]

Yes, that's the 86-92 supra radiator. Up to know I have not the best results with this radiator when it's hot outside (about 25-30°C).But don't forget that there is only a distance of about 5cm between the radiator and the turbine housings and the downpipe. I think I have to cut some more "windows" into my hood to give the hot air a chance to leave the engine bay immediately.
And I'm going to change my cooling water resp. the frost protection fluid and check if I get better results. Now I have the G48 from BASF and I will switch to G30 alu protect premium (from BASF too). Our experience with a stock 2JZ-GTE showed us that we had about 15°C colder cooling water after switching from G48 to G30 only.
I will give you a feedback about the water temp in a few month...(we have to wait for summer time )

Alex

Just imagine the heat if it were an cast (iron) block instead. I think the 1UZ Al block is bleeding off heat as well. Thanks to the ghoul for the BFH definition, I was offline for most of the week and couldn't reply. Also, thanks Alex for the info on the oil baffle. I wasn't sure if the OEM baffle would be able to keep up with the aeration that oil squirters can introduce and the turbos' oil returns.

 

[Tonyd]

I can tell you something about the oil pressure. It's about 1,5 bar @ idle and about 3-3,5 bar till 7400 rpm with 10W-60 synthetic oil. I think it would be a little bit higher without the oil nozzles.

Thanks
Alex

Hi Alex,

As you are putting a lot more stress on the engine I'd be inclined to see if I could get the oil pressure a bit higher than the 45 to 55 psi you're seeing at the moment.

The standard 1UZ should be pushing up to 100psi at the higher revs and at idle about 60 psi, the oil pressure you currently have is about half that.

I'd hate to see all your great work come to grief because the bearings are running a bit on the dry side...

Cheers,

Tony

 

[Speeedy]

Hi Alex,

As you are putting a lot more stress on the engine I'd be inclined to see if I could get the oil pressure a bit higher than the 45 to 55 psi you're seeing at the moment.

The standard 1UZ should be pushing up to 100psi at the higher revs and at idle about 60 psi, the oil pressure you currently have is about half that.

I'd hate to see all your great work come to grief because the bearings are running a bit on the dry side...

Cheers,

Tony

Hey Tony,

yes you are right. The oil pressure isn't that high. I would be happy if I would see about 60-65 psi. I'm not really sure why the pressure is so low. Maybe because of the oil nozzles?
Is there anybody who has the same problem?

Thanks
Alex

 

[cribbj]

The oil pressure drop is probably related to your relocation of the filter, external oil cooler, etc. unless for some reason, one of your squirters is stuck open and starving your mains or rods of oil. But if this were the case, you'd probably have had a major failure by now.

Many of the Cup car builders have quietly reduced oil pressures in their motors over the years to reduce parasitic losses and gain a small edge. If you speak with race engine builders or dry sump oil system designers who are current with the subject, you'll probably find the same philosophy.

You can always revert to the old rule, "10psi for every 1000 RPM" and probably be OK (unless, as mentioned above, a squirter is stuck)

 

[Speeedy]

The oil pressure drop is probably related to your relocation of the filter, external oil cooler, etc. unless for some reason, one of your squirters is stuck open and starving your mains or rods of oil. But if this were the case, you'd probably have had a major failure by now.

Many of the Cup car builders have quietly reduced oil pressures in their motors over the years to reduce parasitic losses and gain a small edge. If you speak with race engine builders or dry sump oil system designers who are current with the subject, you'll probably find the same philosophy.

You can always revert to the old rule, "10psi for every 1000 RPM" and probably be OK (unless, as mentioned above, a squirter is stuck)

Hey John,

many thanks for your reply. Interesting statement you gave us with the Cup car builders story. That make sense...
So there should be no reason to be nervous. Because the squirters are new I don't think that there is the problem with them. And the engine is still alive after 6k km and a lot of hard driving with full boost. But I would be happy to see some more pressure at high revs.
Maybe I will switch to another oil make (same viscosity of 10W 60) and check the pressure again.

Thanks
Alex

 

[Speeedy]

Intercooler

Hey folks,

it’s time for an update. But at first, I wish you all a happy new year!!
Today I would like to show you some pics of the intercooler. I bought the intercooler core from Bell Intercoolers in Texas (Boerne). If somebody of you need an intercooler core I highly recommend to visit there homepage. They have any size you want.

Core size is 27.5” x 12” x 4.5”. The endtanks are custom build. Inlet diameters are 60mm and outlet dia. is 90mm.

But now let’s start with the pics…


The Core:





Upper endtank:

 

[Speeedy]

Intercooler

and some more pics



the upper endtank:




installing the baffle plates:

 

[Speeedy]

Intercooler

The upper end tank baffle plates:




...and in the car again...


the lower endtank:

 

[Speeedy]

Intercooler

lower end tank:

 

[Speeedy]

Intercooler

lower endtank


Core with mounting bracket and upper end tank.


Intercooler mounting bracket

 

[Lextreme II]

Pretty amazing.......

 

[Speeedy]

Intercooler



RH-Side Compressor Housing:

 

[Speeedy]

Thank you, David!

 

[Speeedy]

Intercooler Piping

I cut the cross girder to fit the rhds intercooler pipe from the compressor housing to the intercooler

 

[Speeedy]

Intercooler Piping



IC Piping from the lower endtank to the throttle body:

 

[Speeedy]

Intercooler Piping





One-Piece-Piping welded and complete...



90mm piping with TIAL Q 50mm BOV

 

[Speeedy]

Intercooler Piping





IACV installed, too...