SS 2 into 1 collectors

[cjsupra90]

Hey gang, does anyone know of a place here in the states that I can get some reasonably priced Stainless steel 2 into 1 collectors?

I know that I can get them from Burns Stainless, but I'd rater just maked them myself then pay their prices. I dont really need merge style, just some Swaged -weldon style. I talked to S&S header about them and they said that the could do a run of them in stainless, but I would have to order a minimum of 25 for eact size configuration.

Thanks in advance if anyone can give me any info about where I might be able to get some from.

Chris

 

[ABDULLAH D AFGHAN]

the banner at the top of the page

there is a banner at the top of this page
http://store.racing-solutions.org/2to1.html

 

[cjsupra90]

there is a banner at the top of this page
http://store.racing-solutions.org/2to1.html

Thanks, unfortunitly not going to work.

Sorry, I guess that I should have mentioned that I need them for building headers, so small sizes are what I am looking for like 1.5" in and 1.75" or 2" out and then either 1.75" or 2" (depending on the first ones) in to 2.25" or 2.5" out.

 

[Toysrme]

Want me to make you some?

 

[cjsupra90]

Want me to make you some?

What would they be for?

 

[jibbby]

EKtuning.com, or the maker of Tex Headers maybe willing to do the task for you....Tough to say... You can also try PM'ing JBrady, he may be able to point you in the right direction....Maybe even LEXTREME himself could lend you a helping hand..

 

[Toysrme]

What do you mean? They'd be for whatever you want. You didn't say you wanted manifolds. You said you wanted collectors. Anyone with a chopsaw, bandsaw, or cold saw can make collectors. They're not difficult at all.
Set the pipe demensions, rip the pipe lengthways at the angle you want to create the length, width, and volume you desire. Repeate. Then tig it the two pieces of pipe together.



For transitions you either buy them, or you build them. By taking abit longer the length of pipe you want the transition to be. Ripping it lengthwise down the middle. Then ripping it again from the starting point of the original cut lengthwise down the pipe at an off-set angle to the first cut. The circumfrance of the pipe left at the end of the cut should equal the circumfrance of the smaller OD of the transition.
Use abunch of strong clamps to pull the sides together. Tig that together while it's in the clamps (LOTS OF TACKING). and now you have a collector virtually any length you want. And as large of a step as you can manage with your chosen pipe wall strength VS your ability to curve it back around.

(If you can't picture what I'm getting at. Say the pipe is running top to bottom of this page. The cutout would look like this. \| )


ta-da
lol

 

[Toysrme]

Oh, and just incase you don't know. It's normally better to make the transitions the original inlet pipe size all the way through. Then immediately after the end of the collector, step it up to the next size via a transition. Every now and again you see collector themselves that step up the size. That's kinda eh for velocity.

 

[cjsupra90]

LOL, sorry Toysrme, there goes my reading comprehension again. For some strange reason, when I read that first post from you, I read it as if you were asking if "I want to make some for you."

Sorry that you had to take the time to type the tutorial on how to build them being that I alread know all that, although that is a pretty damn good tutorial....

I probably will end up building them myself being that they'll probably cost me on the low end of probably around $15 to $20 each to build but a bit of time.

 

[stevechumo]

Hey gang, does anyone know of a place here in the states that I can get some reasonably priced Stainless steel 2 into 1 collectors?

I know that I can get them from Burns Stainless, but I'd rater just maked them myself then pay their prices. I dont really need merge style, just some Swaged -weldon style. I talked to S&S header about them and they said that the could do a run of them in stainless, but I would have to order a minimum of 25 for eact size configuration.

Thanks in advance if anyone can give me any info about where I might be able to get some from.

Chris

You can make them. I just made 1 by myself. Mine is similar like in the picture. It's just a little different at the opening. I had to hammer (enlarge) the end spot where the 2 pipes meet right before touching the bigger pipe. I spent about 1/2 hour on it, not very productive. Isn't it? But at least it's there when I needed it.

Does anyone know why the image doesn't show? I've been trying for several times.

 

[Toysrme]

steve - That red X is hot.
cjsupra90 - I was offering to make you some. but now you know, and knowing is half the battle.


Definately not hard to do yourself. Just takes alittle time.

 

[stevechumo]

steve - That red X is hot..

Ouch! :bigeyes2: .

 

[Toysrme]

Still x'ing =D

 

[cjsupra90]

You can make them. I just made 1 by myself. Mine is similar like in the picture. It's just a little different at the opening. I had to hammer (enlarge) the end spot where the 2 pipes meet right before touching the bigger pipe. I spent about 1/2 hour on it, not very productive. Isn't it? But at least it's there when I needed it.

Does anyone know why the image doesn't show? I've been trying for several times.

Yeah, I am just going to end up building them. If priced right, I would buy them to save a bit of time.

Yeah, I can never get and attached pic to show up either.......:censored:

Now, where can I get the head flanges in stainless????????

 

[cjsupra90]

Ok, nevermind that last (dumb) question, I just remembered that I can order them from the main lextreme web page.

 

[cjsupra90]

Ok, so I am going to re ask this, anywhere else to get Stainless flanges besides the main lextreme web site?
They seem a little outragiously priced on there. For $300 some odd dollars per pair, I'd rather just get two rectangles of 3/8" plate stock and drill 12 holes (8 small ones and 4 big ones) and call it done.

 

[stevechumo]

Ok, so I am going to re ask this, anywhere else to get Stainless flanges besides the main lextreme web site?
They seem a little outragiously priced on there. For $300 some odd dollars per pair, I'd rather just get two rectangles of 3/8" plate stock and drill 12 holes (8 small ones and 4 big ones) and call it done.

Then why not go for the mild steel ones? They would last as long as the stainless one. In my experience, there's no diference between the 2, except the stainless ones can still be a little shinier after awhile. But who cares? 1/2 price for the same use.

Anyone can make the stainless flanges but it'll be even pricier because he will need to make them from scratch.

 

[cjsupra90]

Yeah, I would prefer the entire header to be stainless, but I get what your saying about the mild lasting.

As for making them, I am searching around here (local to me) for either a lazer cutter or waterjet cutter to do them for me being that for one there is the CAD drawing on here, plus I had did a CAD drawing for them a long time ago.

I have one place that can do them on a laser, just have to find out how much for them in stainless.... I had talked to them a while back about doing them in mild and it was going to run me 165 for the price of running the machine and up to 5 pairs (whether I wanted one pair or five pairs, it was going to cost 165).

 

[Toysrme]

Use mild for flanges & tig it together. Stainless flanges can be much more prone to cause cracking.

 

[cjsupra90]

Use mild for flanges & tig it together. Stainless flanges can be much more prone to cause cracking.

They will definitly be tig'd mo matter how I build them. I have never heard of them cracking issues with SS flanges, I would think that it would be more prone to cracking do to the totally different expansion rates between the mild flange and stainless tubes.

In all honesty, I would rather just do them entirely out of mild, but by time you add in the cost of Ceramic coating, stainless ends up being cheaper.