voltage stabilizer???

[Jake Breyck]

So my car seeems to have a minor voltage stabization problem, minor things like my lights flicker a bit in pace with my windshild wipers my battery is brand new and my alt tests fine, i think the problem is i may have removed somthing sorta important when i wa simplifying my harness.

as an easy fix i was thinking about getting one of these voltage stabilizers. does anyone have any input on these? good, bad, a suggested brand

it seems there are tons of cheap 5-10$ ones on ebay.

thanks for any input.

 

[spf_lexus]

jake

Yeah I see those a lot and was wondering myself. I have a large stereo w/ battery relocation + supercharger + 140 alt but im still rocking my stock battery. I get clean starts everytime but last week when it got over 105 degrees my AC + all the electrical extras at full blow the entire stereo cut off. Thought one of these + bigger battery would do wonders.

 

[Luxury Mods]

A voltage stabilizer is an electronic device able to deliver relatively constant output voltage while input voltage and load current changes over time.

You would think that there's only 1 way to manufacture these things. Of course there are differences in quality, but does that warrant the huge price difference?

We offer a few from Sun Automotive which offers the following benefits:

• Increased horsepower
• Increased torque
• Better gas mileage
• Improved throttle response
• Quicker engine starts
• Brighter lights
• Reduced emissions
• Reduced audio noise

There are 2 types available, the Hyper Voltage MR which retails for approx. $180 and the Hypger Voltage GT which retails for approx. $249.

 

[Jake Breyck]

So do you have any real info on these other then the generic salesmans info?
what is the diffrence between the two you are talking about and why is the price diffrence so much, also what is the diffrence between those two and the $10 ones on ebay?

You would think that there's only 1 way to manufacture these things. Of course there are differences in quality, but does that warrant the huge price difference?

We offer a few from Sun Automotive which offers the following benefits:

• Increased horsepower
• Increased torque
• Better gas mileage
• Improved throttle response
• Quicker engine starts
• Brighter lights
• Reduced emissions
• Reduced audio noise

There are 2 types available, the Hyper Voltage MR which retails for approx. $180 and the Hypger Voltage GT which retails for approx. $249.

 

[Luxury Mods]

Jake,

Here are direct links from Sun Automobile USA's website for each product. Unfortunately that is all the information available to us. You can compare for yourself to see why the pricing is the way it is.

Hyper Voltage
http://www.sunautomobile.com/products_hypervoltage.htm

Hyper Voltage GT
http://www.sunautomobile.com/products_hypervoltageGT.htm

Now as far as any real scientific studies or reviews, I don't think there are any. We've sold many of these units and customers seem to love them. As far as the eBay units go, they seem cheap enough for you to try. Bottom line with parts, you get what you pay for.

Have a good one.

 

[spf_lexus]

Yeah i'll pass.... just spent $300 for a yellowtop Optima and solid nickel terminals and my car starts IMMIDIATLY... so quick I dont see anything improving it now. I re-wired my trunk and before I had slightly dimming headlights and weak starts until the battery + alternator upgrades. These are whats needed when you have electrical issues. My stereo puts out 1500 RMS, batt relocation, supercharger, AC and the BIGGEST improvements weren't some hyped "voltage stabilizer" which is a roundabout way of saying capacitor they were alternator and high CCA batt. I am still rocking the stock alternator line and is very stable.

 

[Luxury Mods]

Yeah i'll pass.... just spent $300 for a yellowtop Optima and solid nickel terminals and my car starts IMMIDIATLY...

Optima's are great! Adding the yellowtop after installing air suspension was a good addition. We would also recommend doing the same before adding a Voltage stabilizer.

We post the info for the consumer to do their own research and be knowledgeable about the product before purchasing.

We met in person before right SPF_Lexus? If so, how are those tails working for you?

Tony

 

[mshawari1]

Any one having electrical load problem he should look for real solution …
As they said "the power dose not disappear and can't be generated from nothing"

The 1UZ alternator produces 90 ~ 100 Amp … that’s equal 1400 W @ 14v.
And it has internal voltage stabilizer by controlling the internal magnetic flux which is saving the consumed power to stabilize the voltage.

If you have 1500 RMS audio amplifier … then you have to install another alternator!!

In my LandRover I did install two battery and two alternators !! 150 amp​

 

[spf_lexus]

Luxury Mods

Hey didnt know it was you, yeah loving the tails... and finally finished the procharger setup. No dyno yet but a safe estimate would be 300rwhp maybe 310. Yeah you have that beautiful white Sc4 right?

mshawari1

Believe it or not the stock Ls400 electrical system can hold out for a while. Before I did an overhaul I had the stock battery, battery relocation, 3 JL audio amps(500/1 500/1 300/4 and two 12W6's) and they under rate their power) and managed to gimp the car around for a while but the 140amp alternator did the biggest improvements. dual alternators??? where the heck would I run the second one!! lol I cant get my headlights to dim no matter hard I try.. I can max it out while riding my supercharger and still dont have any issues.


I had planned on taking out the inline 80amp fuses and run a circuit breaker instead.... Before I had issues where EVERY fuse would blow if i cranked music up too high but problems seemed to be gone.

 

[jibbby]

I run a voltage stabilizer on my SC400 and it did help a bit with dimming at lights at idle... Change and or rebuild the alternator and cables would be your best bet... Or raise your idle if want a quick temporary fix...

 

[ed_ma61]

its jus a fricken capacitor isnt it?

might as well invest in some fuel line magnets and a vortex generator for the intake whilst youre at it

 

[spf_lexus]

haha, now thats the spirit.

 

[jibbby]

Yep ED you said it right, they are "all" just fance names and looks for the common "Capacitor"... I found that out later on after I purchased this so called "Hyper Voltage System" and others too...

Kind of a big scam if you ask me... I got a capacitor in my trunk regulating my stereo amp voltage, and Nitrous system and that is no different and may even work better... Costs less too... Stereo shops use them all the time....

 

[spf_lexus]

Hey Jibby could i just use a regular stiffening capacitor but run positive/negative to the battery terminals? I have a super sweet looking Monster 5 farad cap w/ digital LED voltmeter and never use.... My JL audio amps have built-in capacitors so I retired my Cap. I have a second one too if anyone wants a free bee and lives in So-cal.

 

[jibbby]

Well if it a simular and standard capacitor like the one you see in my picture I would say absolutely yes... I not really sure which one you are talking about...

 

[spf_lexus]

Ok im wiring this thing up... going to see if they make a difference. Its the same basic cap you have Jibby but its prettier... has a big ol' screen on the front showing voltage and gold plated terminals but no different. Lets see what 5 farads of battery bracing can do..

 

[jibbby]

Let us know how it works out for you spf lexus...If you indeed notice a change in your electrical...

It sure can't hurt...

 

[Tacoma_Kyle]

Yeah Ed, thats exactly what I was remembering from my circuits class. last term.

They are very practical. Hopefully it is not just needed because of a fault in the system.

 

[jibbby]

Check for and replace those old battery cables too.. Especially the ground battery cable.... Most people forget about those battery cables as they can start get very brittle over time and can rob you of good electrical currents...

 

[spf_lexus]

This is a pic of my current trunk setup. Optima battery is inside a battery box (donated by lextreme) and bolted to bottom of tire well and encased in 8'' of expansion foam. I have a zero gauge line running to the relocation "distribution" block and 2 four gauge grounds and nickel terminals, oh nd 140amp alternator too. Then 3 four gauge line run thru firewall to 2nd nickel distribution block that attaches alt line and fuse box.

Jibby

the capacitor didnt do anything. Car fired up just as quick as before, and could not tell ANY change even w/ system at well over 100 decimels and AC maxed. Took it off and now its on craigslist, $50.