Variety of issues

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I dunno, i just want the right thing, eliminating chances that it will be replaced but still be wrong.

Would a faulty lambda put it in safe mode or am i still going to have that problem?

Yes.

The sensors only last for around 90k miles, so if the ones you have at the moment are the originals then they'll need replacing sooner or later anyway.
 
Ok thats cool, with any luck this will be the fix i need. That means my spending money on car budget free up some beer money for bushwhacker budget lol
 
Right, so i replaced the lambda sensor to no avail, still exactly the same problem.

It starts and runs fine (idle is a little high) and i can pull away and am not limited by speed. Where ithas problem is under increased load so when i try and push it harder it just stops responding and starts complaining a little but on realy change is it stops accelerating. Then i ease off the throttle and it starts to accelerate again.

Given the rate its going through fuel im going to say its not fuel related (getting about 6mpg without having use of the top half of the throttle!) and my theory is with that much fuel the more throttle i used, the etter the lambda value and the faster it would be. So im a bit stumped but do have a couple of thoughts:

1 - Its the TPS, but i have checked the resistance values and they seem to be within targets
2 - Something to do with NSW/STA. If these are disconnected is this the kind of thing that i would see? I can never understand if they are supposed to be permanent 12v when the engine is running, or is it literally just when the engine is starting?

Please need help, i dont want to have to pile in money in pursuit of finding a faulty sensor. Thanks so much
 
STA needs cranking voltage only.
NSW needs 12v.

As your engine is starting and running then these wires seem OK.

Re: your high idle speed, have you checked for any loose or detatched vacuum pipes on and around the inlet plenum?
Is the vac pipe connected to the fuel pressure regulator ? (see photo below)

Is the IACV working and the vacumm hose connected to the inlet ducting as per factory?

Picture104.jpg
 
Yeah, my FPR is plumbed as yours is shown. If ive made an obvious mistake (though i dont think my problem is fuelling as i mentioned), the one on the right in your picture is the return, the other in the 'fuel in' right?

Errrm yeah ive checked for vac leaks, ill show you what ive done. Would a vac leak really cause this much bother?
 
Yeah, my FPR is plumbed as yours is shown. If ive made an obvious mistake (though i dont think my problem is fuelling as i mentioned), the one on the right in your picture is the return, the other in the 'fuel in' right?

Errrm yeah ive checked for vac leaks, ill show you what ive done. Would a vac leak really cause this much bother?


Yeah, fuel return is on the right in the photo.
 
Well thats correct then. Do you think the vac would cause such an issue?

Do you think the high idle and the dodgy running could be related?
 
News for the day, took the car for a longer drive today. It seems as though the lambda has potentially resolved the overfuelling issue which is a start.

Bushwhacker. You said you sell plug and play looms. Do you have a guide that comes with it that explicitly says what wire needs to go to what? Im confident in my loom, but not confident that ive got the right bits going to the right bits necesarily. If you have a guide could i buy that off you without the loom?
 
OK, so i took a bit of a sabbatical from working on the car over Christmas and got back on it a bit today, i measured fuel pressure and have noted what wiring ive done. We'll start with the fuel pressure.

With the engine off (FPR at atmospheric) and the fuel pump on i got 45psi

With the engine held at 2000rpm i got 41psi

With the engine held at 3000rpm i got 42psi

I read and it says FPR is set to 41psi above plenum? I did watch a video and found that it went up to 50psi, so im wondering if my fuel pump isnt up the job? But it seems like the FPR is working correctly. Any thoughts?

Also, the following is a list of wires that are NOT connected:

VF1
VF2
STA
NSW
W
TE1
TE2
SPD
M-REL
TT
Auto gearbox wires
Post cat lambdas

Here is a list of wires that are connected:
Bundle of white sensor common earth wires
Injector power - 12v 30A permanent
B+
BATT
IGSW

If anyone can have a look through there and see if theres something obvious i may have missed im all ears!

Thanks so much
 
yeah ive been through there, it seems like the only thing different is the NSW/STA but id have though it just wouldnt start if there was a problem with them.

Any idea on the fuel pressure?
 
i just dont get why my effing checkight wont come on. When you turn the ignition on, even with all the auto stuff missing and the nsw/sta disconnected, it should still illuminate the damn light. I just dont get it at all.
 
Lost patience with this totally, sending it to some professionals now after i quickly try the 12v start signal supply to nsw/sta because thats the only thing i can see thats wrong, its ridiculous.
 
you not read wiring pictures correctly
mrel always wiring up i do
your power wires not properly connect
 
W is the check light no wire no light . STA tells the ECU the engine is starting wire goes to start relay same as the wire to the start solenoid . Best to have a good read of the old school forum .
 


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