Variety of issues

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
hmmm, that doesnt clear that up then. Its pointing to lambda at the moment as its overfuelling like nobodies business. Its costing me about £1/mile at the moment!!

I will see where the E02 disappears off to though, am i right assuming i should trim it and put it to my chassis earth then? Rather than at the moment i think it earth onto the engine. I do remember a couple of earth wires bolted in the back of each of the heads.
 
Ok, do i need to earth both heads? Ive earther the block and one head and im getting continuity from the other side to the chassis so should be ok.

Ill take a closer look at the earths from the ecu and make sure they go straight to the chassis. The worry i have is that i cant cut them and run them direct to the chassis earth as some of them share onto other wires further along the line.
 
MaccyD said:
Ok, do i need to earth both heads? Ive earther the block and one head and im getting continuity from the other side to the chassis so should be ok.

Ill take a closer look at the earths from the ecu and make sure they go straight to the chassis. The worry i have is that i cant cut them and run them direct to the chassis earth as some of them share onto other wires further along the line.
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Just earth one of the heads to the bulkhead, then run another earth strap from the block to the chassis somewhere.

I group and bolt the ECU earths directly to the body as close as possible to the ECU and seperately from any other earth wires..
 
Ok, a little update. I spliced a chassis earth into the E2 earth wire I didnt want to just cut it.
On the wiring diagram the EO1 and EO2 both just terminate direct to earth. I checked continuity and it is earthed but is it possible to just cut the wire and have it go direct from the ECU to the chassis? Im dubious as to whether or not it splices into other things?

So, predicaments. I cant for the life of me get the management light to work. Ive taken a permanent 12v with 12v lamp and then into 'W'. But i get nothing when i turn the ignition on (id expect it to turn on at this point).

The second one is curious. If i turn the fuel off when its running (in an attempt to kill the engine) the revs actually begin to rise! The idle is high (around 1200) and it rose fairly rapidly to 2000 before i panicked and turned the engine of.

Any input appreciated lol. Starting to pull my hair out with this thing. Its getting depressing.
 
Ok, more questions (this is a battle of attrition), im still struggling to get the management light on. Is there some kind of trick on toyota ecus as i had the same problem with a 1JZ conversion before. Do i need to earth the ECU body? Does the management light come on regardless of fault when you turn the ignition or do i have to manually bridge the 2 wires?

I did think this might be because i have left the NSW and STA wires cut. I figured it just wouldnt turn over if there was something wrong with these, but do i actually need to put switch 12v to them or something?
 
MaccyD said:
Ok, more questions (this is a battle of attrition), im still struggling to get the management light on. Is there some kind of trick on toyota ecus as i had the same problem with a 1JZ conversion before. Do i need to earth the ECU body? Does the management light come on regardless of fault when you turn the ignition or do i have to manually bridge the 2 wires?

I did think this might be because i have left the NSW and STA wires cut. I figured it just wouldnt turn over if there was something wrong with these, but do i actually need to put switch 12v to them or something?
Click to expand...

12v goes to one side of the check light and the other side goes to the ecu pin marked 'W'.

The check light should come on with ignition and go out once the engine has started.

Bridge the TE1 & E1 terminals in the diagnostics port (you can use an opened out paperclip for this) and switch on ignition to check for flash codes.

Alternatively, buy yourself an OBD1 code reader, plenty on eBay for under £50.
 
Havent got e obd1 port anymore, im manually putting TE1 just to earth from the back of the ECU. Ive got a 12v perm supply (from ignitors) to a 12v bulb to the W wire (unless this is in a different location after i changed ecu before).

I put the 12v to earth to check and it illuminates. But i put it t W and it doesnt come on, whether ignition is turned or if ive got TE1 to earth. It just never comes on. Ive got so many sensors unplugged (egr, evap, fuel pressure, the auto box) youd have thought id never get it to turn off! Its so frustrating!
 
MaccyD said:
Havent got e obd1 port anymore, im manually putting TE1 just to earth from the back of the ECU. Ive got a 12v perm supply (from ignitors) to a 12v bulb to the W wire (unless this is in a different location after i changed ecu before).

I put the 12v to earth to check and it illuminates. But i put it t W and it doesnt come on, whether ignition is turned or if ive got TE1 to earth. It just never comes on. Ive got so many sensors unplugged (egr, evap, fuel pressure, the auto box) youd have thought id never get it to turn off! Its so frustrating!
Click to expand...


'W' wire is usually yellow with red stripe.

What happened to the diagnostics port?
Sounds like you could do with a replacement engine harness, would probably solve a lot of issues.

I charge £125 for a plug and play loom.;)
 
I took it off as i dont think its necessary because you can normally run the fault test with a lamp on the ecu. I built the loom on the engine so i dont think theres anything wrong with it, nothing that goes from the engine to the ecu has been tampered with. the diagnostics port is just loads of wires that are spliced into other wires, except for this te1 wire, which you trace back to the ecu.

You know you told me to change the ecu as i had the immobilised one, and i had to swap the 2 signal wires to the ignitors. Would the W input have changed too?

Ill be honest. Id buy the loom off you if i thought that was the only problem. But i know ill change the loom, itll be a massive **** around, and then ill have the same problem anyway.

At the moment i suspect lambda sensor failure. Its overfuelling MASSIVELY and seems to be in some kind of safe mode (throttle doesnt seem to do anything after about 20%) and one of the lambda sensors takes a bit of a beating every time the engine has been in and out (many times). Id just like to diagnose it for certain before i tart spending money here and there chasing problems that im not sure of :(
 
What year is the replacement ECU again?

The 'W' should be in the same plug anyway, yellow/red.

You definitely have 12v on one side of the check light??
 
The two main reasons I see for CEL not working. 1) ecu is stuffed. Had a few that the engine ran fine but no check light. repaired ecu and problem fixed. 2) the ECU is not wired correctly. I see this one alot more than the first option.

If I was working on this vehicle I would wire in a diagnotic port -(the one that is normally under the dash as it gives better info than the one on the engine , with my scanner anyway)
With live data and codes a solution should be forthcoming.

What is the ECU number and which pin are you using for the CEL?
 
Ill go get the ecu part number in a bit.

What is it about the wiring that means the CEL wont come on? Id have thought the slightest thing wrong would mean it should be on.
Does anyone have a guide they used? As i said my engine runs and drives ok. Just overfuels badly and seems to be in some kind of limp mode. I dont really wamt to buy another ecu as ive bought an extra one already.
 
ahhh HAH!! so its the lambda sensor, did a couple of checks today and im getting continuity across the 2 black wires which im not getting on the other lambda which seems to be bad! Though if someone could confirm that would be excellent. Im pretty sure this would send my fuelling up the spout and put the ecu in limp/safe mode so it could be my problem.

I called Lexus, they want £200 for a sensor! Its £60 for an NGK lambda from ebay for an LS400, has anyone ever bought one of these? Does it need rewiring or will it come with the correct plug?

Cheers
 
I dunno, i just want the right thing, eliminating chances that it will be replaced but still be wrong.

Would a faulty lambda put it in safe mode or am i still going to have that problem?
 
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