Variety of issues

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Ok, a bit odd. My alternator setup:

The big battery terminal goes straight to my battery
The yellow wire goes to my charge indicator lamp
The black/red goes to a 10A fused 12V that switches on with the ignition
The white goes to a permanent live

For some reason im still getting no charge. Ive no reason to believe the alternator is buggered, but is there a way i cant test if it actually works. If im going to have to swap it id prefer to know its definitely faulty before i buy another.

Thanks.

Oh, also, my car moved under its own power for the first time in 7 months today :) Alternator seems to be the last gremlin for now!
 
MaccyD said:
Ok, a bit odd. My alternator setup:

The big battery terminal goes straight to my battery
The yellow wire goes to my charge indicator lamp
The black/red goes to a 10A fused 12V that switches on with the ignition
The white goes to a permanent live

For some reason im still getting no charge. Ive no reason to believe the alternator is buggered, but is there a way i cant test if it actually works. If im going to have to swap it id prefer to know its definitely faulty before i buy another.

Thanks.

Oh, also, my car moved under its own power for the first time in 7 months today :) Alternator seems to be the last gremlin for now!
Click to expand...

Is the battery OK?
Use a multi meter on the battery to check if the alternator is charging the battery, like this.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWF79W5JOEk&feature=related
 
Panic over, complete amateur hour here, all wired in correctly, but somewhere along the line the plug had come loose! Was on 11.5V before i got it working, then was charging at 13.5V.

Couple of car based problems for me to sort, i have the fan on a manual switch and it isnt coming on, and my water temp sensor also doesnt seem to be doing anything. Pretty important to be able to control temps on a test drive! The thermostat seemed to have opened though so thats good.

An engine thing is just a lumpy/hunty idle once warm and throttle response poor. BUt as mentioned before i need to run it a few times. This was the first time running since i permanently connected the battery.
 
once im running and know i dont need to spend any more i can finally settle my debts! money is tight, and by the looks of fuel consumption will get tighter haha
 
Right, im despairing right now. All seemed well yesterday, to the point i actually went for a 40 odd minute drive. Now i didnt seem at full power, it was there low down but (similar to being in low powered car) the upper end of the throttle seemed to have no effect. Anyway, thats besides the point.

I get in the car this morning to drive to work, the car starts ok, but dies after a couple of seconds. Ive had the ecu problem before, where it runs for about 5 seconds thenjust cuts. This seems different. The revs come up (as they normally would when you first start) but then it just drops all the way down and dies.

When it was running the idle did hunt (rapidly) but it was running and idlng fine when i stopped the engine.

Im really worried, on a previous conversion i just had to pile money in trying to diagnose a fault and never got to the bottom of it. Really need you guys help to try and diagnose this without having to just keep buying and replacing sensors :(
 
MaccyD said:
Right, im despairing right now. All seemed well yesterday, to the point i actually went for a 40 odd minute drive. Now i didnt seem at full power, it was there low down but (similar to being in low powered car) the upper end of the throttle seemed to have no effect. Anyway, thats besides the point.

I get in the car this morning to drive to work, the car starts ok, but dies after a couple of seconds. Ive had the ecu problem before, where it runs for about 5 seconds thenjust cuts. This seems different. The revs come up (as they normally would when you first start) but then it just drops all the way down and dies.

When it was running the idle did hunt (rapidly) but it was running and idlng fine when i stopped the engine.

Im really worried, on a previous conversion i just had to pile money in trying to diagnose a fault and never got to the bottom of it. Really need you guys help to try and diagnose this without having to just keep buying and replacing sensors :(
Click to expand...


If it's gradually dropping down before cutting out then it sounds like it's a fuel delivery problem. What type filter are you using?

Any fault codes?
 
I dont have the diagnostics port anymore, how do you run a manual check through that outputs through the engine management light?

Im using the filter from a 300ZX (weapon of choice for uprated 200's) and a 255l/hr fuel pump (i may test the flow rate this weekend). Whatwould have changed/gone between it running and not? :(
 
MaccyD said:
I dont have the diagnostics port anymore, how do you run a manual check through that outputs through the engine management light?

You can make your own engine check light.
Get hold of a 12v bulb and bulb holder, an old side light or indicator light will work, apply ignition 12v to one side of the bulb and connect the other side to the 'W' pin at the ECU. On the same ECU plug, earth the TE1 pin/wire.
Switch on ignition and the engine check light should illuminate. If there's any faults stored in the ECU, it will start flashing.

Im using the filter from a 300ZX (weapon of choice for uprated 200's) and a 255l/hr fuel pump (i may test the flow rate this weekend). Whatwould have changed/gone between it running and not? :(
Click to expand...

How have you wired to fuel pump?
 
MaccyD said:
It already just runs flat out though doesnt it?

Where abouts in the UK are you? Dont spose you fancy coming over lol
Click to expand...

Depends how you've wired it through the ECU, it might not be getting full voltage hense no WOT power.
I'm in south Wales, NP11. Can't afford the time away from the house at the moment, too many things going on. You're welcome to come here though, would be a lot easier.
 
It doesnt go through the ECU at all. I basically have a manual on/off switch at the moment. So it always runs at full power when ive got it switched.

Hmmm just need to get it running well enough to go for more than 2 seconds then! Im other side of the country in east anglia lol
 
Sure thing, will have to wait until tomorrow or the weekend though :(

Im not going mad am i, it is possible to get this thing running properly using standard management right?

With my wiring diagram from Lexus i got a check list for voltages and resistance for the critical wires so im going to go through that.

Its done similar before and it sounds silly and may have been unrelated but faffing/wriggling the wiring in the passenger footwell made it work ok. But this evening i went through the whole loom in the area checking all connections and everything seemed ok. Also nothing moved after it ran properly last time.
 
I may have asked before as well, but does anyone have a reccomendation for spark plugs? Does anyone bother with iridium or platinum or do you stick to copper on a stock UZ? Do they need to be gapped or do they perform ok from the box?

Also, does anyone have a code to give me as i normally buy plugs online, particularly i now have to buy 8!
 
Im a tart so had already ordered the Bosch units as i wanted them to be here by friday. I dont think itll fix my problem but it needs doing. I know water had got in the cam cover and had covered the spark plug (i didnt run it like this) at one point so itd be good to replace it.
 
Been away for work, but spark plugs are here and got my hand on a compression tester. Hoping for anything in the green zone and consistency across all cylinders but whats a good target for a 96 1UZ? The green zone is 150-200psi which is a pretty big target.
 
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