I have a 96 SC 400. this is production number 13. My temp gage pegs as soon as I start her. I have replaced the sender twice the plug twice. Peeled back the casing replaced what wire I found to be broken. And resolder the connection. And it is still doing the same thing. I'm not a mechanic in any sense. But I can't afford to take it in. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Temp sender
- Thread starter dpksc400
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The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
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Toyota and Lexus use thermistors with an NTC curve for their coolant sensors, meaning they have higher resistance at low temps, and lower resistance at high temps.
So if your needle is pegged hot, more than likely you have a short somewhere in your wiring.
Easy way to isolate it, is disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor and see if the needle still pegs hot. If so, you have a wiring problem. Most of have the EWD's (Electrical Wiring Diagrams) for these cars, so report back what you find and we may be able to help.
So if your needle is pegged hot, more than likely you have a short somewhere in your wiring.
Easy way to isolate it, is disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor and see if the needle still pegs hot. If so, you have a wiring problem. Most of have the EWD's (Electrical Wiring Diagrams) for these cars, so report back what you find and we may be able to help.
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- 4,790
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- Houston, TX
Well, I know you said you've already replaced the sensor, but according to that last test, it really seems like you still have a bad sensor. This is the single wire sensor we're talking about, right? The one that feeds the temperature gauge itself?
If you have a DVM, try measuring the resistance of the sensor. Ground one probe to the thermostat housing, and measure from the single spade connector on the sensor. At an ambient of about 70 degrees you should get around 2,500 ohms, but according to what you're saying it seems like you're going to see a dead short.
If you have a DVM, try measuring the resistance of the sensor. Ground one probe to the thermostat housing, and measure from the single spade connector on the sensor. At an ambient of about 70 degrees you should get around 2,500 ohms, but according to what you're saying it seems like you're going to see a dead short.
- Messages
- 4,790
- Location
- Houston, TX
BTW, here are the three coolant sensors that I know of from the early series 1UZ's. I think you may have a later series, so I'm not sure if you have the single wire sensor on
the far left that is/was dedicated to the coolant gauge?
the far left that is/was dedicated to the coolant gauge?
Ok I'll test it. This is the second new one. I heard someone say that there are two different types of senders one for a gauge and one for A Idiot light. And yes mine is the one with the single pole. It is a 1996 sc400 and it's been a pain in my but. The guy my wife got it from messed it up bad. But she was trying to surprise me. I had to go on disability a few months back and I can't work on it like I want so I have to rely on used parts and unreliable friends. I will let you know what find.
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