Project Thread Supercharged 5 speed SC400 - 2nd go with bigger goals

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Got the upper intake all done and so now I can actually run the motor.

The thing SCREAMS. I still need to take the lower manifold down and put it on the belt sander to smooth it out. Got warped slightly from welding, so my idle is around 1500rpm.

Got the flywheel bolted on, and working on the extension housing for the shifter. It will sit back 31" from the motor.

I left my heater on in the garage so I have to go back(30 min each way). I will take the video camera and my good camera with me and get some decent pictures and a quick vid.
 
Last picture taken of almost completed

mm12_engine1.jpg


First vid of the new setup

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rE9CWHeAB8
 
Q45 probably a little easier than stock. Q45 is due to external dimensions is also probably a little easier as well to fit.

I already had a Q45 flange so I just had to weld it up. Since I am using an AEM, I just use the factory Q45 TPS, ans whalla 90mm's of intake.
 
awesome mate, im just using the stock TB as this is a mega budget build right now, saving cash to afford standalone etc :)
 
A slight setback on getting this running.

Found out that a transmission that I thought was ok(loose bolt in shifter fork), actually had a busted thrust washer. Pretty easy to tell. If there is ANY play in 1st gear(actually grabbing the gear with your hand), then your thrust washer is probably broke.

I use a harbor freight bearing splitter, and a shop press also from harbor freight, and made a little stand for the bearing splitter to sit on, so the gearset can sit about a foot off the ground.

Using some angle iron and a flat plate for the base, I rigged up the jig in about 15 minutes.

Then using the press, I was able to pull the gears and bearings off with ease(and a little help with a 5lb hammer.)

Here is what I found

thrust_washer.jpg

I did this in my 900hp gs300. This trans lasted about a month. I have another trans, but it had the same fate and only lasted 30 minutes in the GS300. I drove nicely around town for that 30 min, but when I hopped on the freeway I punched it and it popped.

I ordered a new chromoly thrust washer from Marlin Crawler along with the new improved chormoly bearing plate. I then ordered a factory toyota rebuild kit for $240 from Driftmotion. Hopefully these will come in early next week.

I also had my shorty tundra headers show up as well, so I decided to yank to motor. 1 hour later, motors is on the ground. This will give me a change to clean up the engine bay, and the rest of my wiring.

Looks like my drivability date got pushed off probably another 2 weeks from now.
 
Last edited:
They don't. I was going to modify them. What I found is that you basically have to cut every single runner. The runners actually fit within the frame rails, but the collector is up way too high.

So change of plans. I am going to get a set of BBK ford 5.0 mustang equal length headers and use those as a starting point. You can get them for $230.

Yes that is the trans I broke. Got another like it but a little worse as I kept driving on it and mangled 1st gear thrust surface.
 
here is my tranny jig

tranny_jig.jpg


I also started flowtesting my manifold. It actually does a TON better than I thought it would. I am still going to baffle it. I think a V shaped baffle would work best. I tried just a flat piece to re-direct air to the back. It helped a little, but not enough. The V will really limit what the front 4 will get and help push that air back.

flowtest_manifold.jpg
 
here are the headers. I am not sure how they will work on the drivers side with the power steering. Maybe the 4.6 would be better, but they are $70 m ore than the 5.0.

Now that I think of it, since the 4.6 is OHV the heads will be larger presenting more of a problem with steering, so the headers would have to be designed a little more different.

HMM.

5.0

bbk-1512_w.jpg


4.6

bbk-1615_w.jpg
 
Last edited:
I also started flowtesting my manifold. It actually does a TON better than I thought it would. I am still going to baffle it. I think a V shaped baffle would work best. I tried just a flat piece to re-direct air to the back. It helped a little, but not enough. The V will really limit what the front 4 will get and help push that air back.


please explain your v baffle...at that stage (and wondering what baffle to fit in mine..my sc outlet is biased towards front of manifold ..) along with puleys now..thanks
 
I wish that was completely true. Car is kinda old and beat up, the 180,000 miles on the car have not been all that kind, but I am trying to make it better, which is one of the reasons I pulled the motor. CLEANING TIME!!!

Zen, the Z. Just image a V with the bottom of the V toward the front of the manifold. The legs of the V will be about maybe an inch and a half tall, but TILTED outward to help push the air toward the center and back of the manifold. If that doesn't quite do it, then I will add another more narrow V a little further back to catch a little more air.
 
Nice simple idea on the headers, how is the port spacing compared to the Lexus? Did you have to move the pipes much to line up?
 
you could probably request USPS and it would be cheaper.

Let me see how things fit before anyone goes out and buys anything. ALTHOUGH if someone wants to try the 4.6 3v, be my guest.
 


Top