Short Block

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

Lextreme II

Just call me "Lex"
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12,033
Location
City of Halos
Hey Gang,

Found a local place that does lots of Import performance engine. I talked to the owner and he sound very knowledgeable in toyota engines. Here are the breakdown:

Bore and Hone = $150
Balance = $100
Assemble = $125

Total is about 300 USD.

I will do that once i get my ARP Rod bolts and Lexus Bearings. King Bearings is not avialable and no date for production.
 
Did he said anything about align honing the mains? Does he have the capability to do that with a 1uzfe? I cant imagine many shops have torque plates setup for these engines? That doesn't seem bad at all on the assembly, seems worth it to make sure everything is put together correctly and clearanced right by someone with much more experience than most of us here. Did anyone ever get ahole of ARP about main studs? And are they needed considering the mains are already factory studed?
 
I checked out the main studs. Beside the strength, they will be very expensive. The total will be 32 Studs and 16 bolts. The cost alone would be over $450-500 USD. Its little out of my budget. Like Red Supra stated, they are pretty strong already. Remember we have 6 bolts.
 
Well looking at the strength of an LS1 block with 6 bolt mains, but with bolts instead of studs, I'm not doubting the strength here. Can anyone take a picture of the bottom of a bare block? I dont have one right now to fool around with an am just curious how they look, the picture lextreme has in his album doesn't cover the whole bottom of the block. Just curious..
 
The few engine builders that have seen the bare block and crank all seem to agree that 1500hp won't break the motor, 1000hp without a problem when tuned correctly.
 
we should have a contest? who can make 1000 hp on the alum 4.0 -1uz first.. what do you guys say? winner gets to free bragging rights for a year.. or something anyway..

cmon guys, a little competition is good for everybody..
the lex-rolla is just sitting at my shop waiting for a new purpose in life.. i need some motivation to start wrenching on it again..
i know a bunch of guys on this forum are capable--..
 
Is the 1,000 horsepower going to be measured on an engine dyno or are we going to allow a percentage for losses in the driveline.

If the percentage method we need to decide the percentage for Rear Wheel Drive, Transaxle, 4x4 and Front Wheel Drive. That way we all know where we're starting from and what we need to get at the wheels.

Different makes and model of transmission rob the car of varying amounts of power.
 
in my opinion the best way to measure hp is at the track.. weight versus mph at the end of the quarter..an et-mph is tough to manipulate..but in an effort to make it a bit easier, its difficult and expensive enough task, a dyno should be good enough.. as long as it can be repeated at least once....
but lets get more opinions on how to measure official results.. i would hate to turn this into a dyno versus dyno debate..
david, i didnt know there was a contest section.. il try posting over there.. maybe call it a challenge..how about--"The Lextreme Challenge".. sounds catchy..
 
MPH vs Weight is not always accurate. Some cars that use a pretty loose converter will not show their power via MPH, but rather with ET.

Max


chrisman said:
in my opinion the best way to measure hp is at the track.. weight versus mph at the end of the quarter..an et-mph is tough to manipulate..but in an effort to make it a bit easier, its difficult and expensive enough task, a dyno should be good enough.. as long as it can be repeated at least once....
but lets get more opinions on how to measure official results.. i would hate to turn this into a dyno versus dyno debate..
david, i didnt know there was a contest section.. il try posting over there.. maybe call it a challenge..how about--"The Lextreme Challenge".. sounds catchy..
 
yes max is right,, but getting a good et is where a race car or a car setup for the strip, has a great advantage over a street car,, usually because of a combination of a loose convertor, slicks,suspension,gearing,etc.. these things can effect (greatly) how long it takes you to get down the quarter(et),, but since hp is derived from an ability to perform work, it is easier to think of it-HP- as wieght vs mph at the end of the quarter..

but we could use 3 things to determine a winner..mph vs weight--et vs weight--dyno hp.. the average would need to be a 1000hp or higher..that would probably make the challange very legit..
 
I'm only shooting for 1000 crank hp. I'm going to retain the stock bottom end with cryo treated rods and pistons. Most of the engine work(money spent) is on the induction of the engine where most power gains lie. Anyhow, you're on!
 
wow-original pistons..i think the rods may? be fine, but the pistons would worry me.. not that they are not good pistons, but to get to 1000 hp i think it would take about 30+ psi..but, the induction IS where the power gains lie.. and it sounds like your on your way to 1000 hp.. i may need to start working on the Lex-Rolla v8 after all..

where are you other guys? we cant have the only 1000 hp v8 toyotas end up in the chicago area.. i know max is serious about this, so its only a matter of time.. it would be cool to see his v8 supra vs the v8 corolla at the track.. as a matter of fact, his new shop is very close to my shop--so this may just happen.. stay tuned...
 
hey max,by the way, i have had good luck with previous cryo treating.. i had a local place who cryos musical instruments do it for a great price.. i will get you the details..
 
Can you give us all more information on cryo treating the rods.

Sounds easier than finding aftermarket rods.
 

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i have never cryod rods, but i have cryod a block, and some other parts.. i have a friend who use to cryo tool cutting bits, and they would last abot 5 times longer-- that was good enough for me to try it..
what they do is take the part temperature very low,, well below freezing and then rise up again slowly.. but this is done over a period of time.. i think it was a couple of days if i remember.. i had it done at a place that does musical instruments--horns and the like.. they sound better after cryo treating,, and this has become very commoplace.. from what i remember, it affects the metal on a molecular level..
cryo treating-like heat treating-does affect the durability of the part.. and should be considered..as long as its available at a reasonable price, and localy from a reputeable company..
 
hi david,it sounds like your trying to beat chicago to the 1000 hp-"lextreme challenge".. try and get us some pics when you can--i bet the pistons look great in the engine..

i havnt heard from max-red supra- in a while-- i wonder how hes coming along?
 
This guy is very good. He works alone and very slow.... he is also working on some re-grind cams for me. I need to see my budget. Heads are at his shop right now. I order Supra TT Springs, Retainers and Locks. He might do a double springs also.... We will see....
 


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