Largest known engine bore on a Xuz-fe?

[jibbby]

I'm curious to know what the largest most successful engine bore that has been performed on the 4.0L Xuz-fe engines?...

Being that the engine block is alluminum how thin can those cylinder walls become before the engine block structural integrity is compromised?

I think we have seen some 5.0 engine bores done but not sure...

Who knows what is the largest engine bore ever done on these blocks? Any guesses are welcome too...

 

[Lextreme II]

There is no way to get 5.0L without stroking on the 1uzfe. Stock stroke to get 5.0L then you would need 3.85". From stock bore of 3.44 to 3.85" then you almost need .400". Noway stock bore, you need to resleeve. We are working on a stroker engine right now for me. Bore is 3.75"

Here is a picture of a typical 1uzfe sleeve.

 

[Fasteddie]

For the 3UZ engine we are working on, we don't need sleeves but we strengthen the block (cement) to handle the required hp.
The 3UZ block is brand new, so no over-bore is required....but the sleeves are to thin to increase the bore !....stroking would be the solution i guess...

 

[Lextreme II]

Eddie,

Interesting idea on the cement. Is this a purely race car or street car?

 

[XR8tt]

race... [too short massage] 123456

 

[gte]

You could probably go to 98mm on a uz block

 

[jibbby]

Not much space between cyclinder walls and sleeves... That's for sure...


So how about a 4.7 liter sized engine bore? Is that possible, or would that be pushing it?

 

[Fasteddie]

Lex,

the car will be a street car...goal: 800 rwhp on racegas :Eyecrazy: ....600rwhp on pumpgas (98 octane)...
When I get the block back, i will post some pics etc...
V160 getrag will be connected to the 3UZ,fully built etc etc...

 

[Lextreme II]

If it is for the street you might experience overheating.

 

[Fasteddie]

Maybe...we first built the block...also change valve springs..etc,etc..
If we experience overheating we will deal with that later...any suggestions how to cope with that ?

By the way: so far our target car is my BMW E39 M5...hahahaa..how about that ?! :bling:

 

[Lextreme II]

Well,

You don't need to cement the block for 800 rwhp application.

 

[Fasteddie]

off course the block is not completly cemented...only the bottom part (which doesn't get that hot)...cooling holes and system stays intact off course....

 

[jibbby]

Doesn't cement weigh a ton....Isn't that counter productive? Why not just buy a bigger block rather then try and bore it, and cement the bottom end... I cannot even picture that.....Cementing a block, never heard of it before...

 

[rms]

Doesn't cement weigh a ton....

As impossible as it seems, cement is lighter than aluminium !!!

 

[TOBES]

This is often called 'grouting' and I have seen it done to SBC's. It uses a special compound to fill the block water jacket up to the botton of the frost plugs.
The aim is to strengthen the lower part of the block and stabilise the lower part of the cylinders to resist movement and cracking. The process does not reduce the water jacket volume enough to cause overheating. Also this is the coolest part of the block as it is furtherest from the combustion chamber.

 

[jibbby]

Oh, so it is kinda like an injection into the open areas of the inner block passages near the bottom end and freeze plugs...hmmmm???...OK, that makes sense to me...Like grouting tiles, you fill in the gaps...

I was some how thinking that outer part of the block was cemented and was wondering how the hell can you do that?...Like an ice cream cone dip into hardening chocolate to strengthen the block... Drrrrrr!!!!!

I would venture to think by cementing in the block water passages you would greatly increase the chance of the core block overheating during operations...Don't you need those passages to have the block cooled with coolant and water? Or is really just wasted hollow space in the block?

I don't know about this cementing process fellas?????... I've torn down Small Block Chevy's, change freeze plugs, and man I would think if you seal off the water flow passages in the block that is suicide for the engine unless you get creative and find another alternate way to cool down the block...No?

Thanks for the knowledge always appreciated.... Learn something new everyday..

 

[Fasteddie]

It's exactly how Tobes describes it....to strengthen the 3UZ block for 1000Hp this was the advice we got...no sleeves and no over-bore....

 

[LondonBenji]

I would have thought you'd probably want to change the rods.... that saying I don't know the block differences between the 1UZ and 3UZ.

1UZ does seem to handle 800-1000bhp no problems except for some rumours of a couple of breakages but doesn't seem to be any more information on that.

I'm also interested on how you keep the block cool after grouting it.....

 

[XR8tt]

The heat is bassically in the top of engine and approx the top 2 inches of bore where the combustion takes place...
The lower part of any block is mainly open to save weight or alloy...
In some cases a resen is used, it has little effect on cooling...
On Ford Clevelands they are filled up to wealsh plugs with no cooling effect....
On a road car I'd run an oil cooler however as it will effect oil temp, it would at the power level the block is built for! If not you wouldn't do it...
Its also done to strengthen bore in high boost engines....

 

[Fasteddie]

The heat is at the top...agree....when I get the block back, I will post some pics...
We will run about 28psi with a GT42R....