fitted new radiator from nissan s14 sr20t

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hey guys ive just fitted a new raditor from a nissan s14 sr20t

fits so easily and the hoses are easy too once u get the right ones

it looks factory and does a much better job than my old hilux one

only prob is they are hard to find

but i think they are not to expensive new from nissan

soon i will have the cruise control working too :)
 
Jim,

You need to keep in mind you're asking a 2litre radiator to cool a 4litre engine.

That's a 100% increase in cooling requirements.

Why not try and fit a Crown or SC400 radiator.

If you're using fans mounted behind the radiator get some Ford ones. Then ensure every puff of air that get in the grille passes thru the radiator AND the fans. It needs to be very well sealed and the fans need to cover the whole area of the radiator.

If your fans are in front of the radiator they will be woefully inefficient.
 
the stupid chassis rails are to close so im limited to what height rsadiator
i fit

this rad should do the job as its for a turbo engine

while driving on clean open road its ok so rad is ok

at open road the thermos dont do much work

when stopped the thermo cant keep up

i have 1 14inch thermo behind rad infront of engine

i checked for air flow when bonnet is shut and its pretty dismal

so im goin to try some vents in bonnet
 
First thing before chopping the bonnet is ged rid of the 14inch thermo and replace it with something bigger - it is just no where near enough cooling for a V8, i will put money on the bonnet vents doing SFA, seen it many a time and no change to the operating temps (removing the whole bonnet may make a difference :p). Even a 16 inch Davis Craig is pushing it due to having no shroud, so if the EL/AU Falcon fans dont fit, measure up some Ford Mondeo fans, they are smaller and work just as well. Failing that make a shroud up to house the fan in and the cooling probs at idle will be a thing of the past.

Also Iam with Zuffen on the 2L radiator and can see why you chose it but in your defence it was intended to cool a 2L turbo which produces far more heat than an NA 2L - it is possible to roughly calculate the power of an engine by the heat energy it pushes out the block.
 
the crown radiator isnt as thick as the sr20t one but its abit wider and taller

so in actual water it can hold and surface area its not much different

i have done shitlaods of these 1uz and never had any heating probs this bad

when u say the power and an engine by heat it produces do u mean like the 1uz has 185 kws so creats abit of heat

well the sr20t produces 200 kws so it must produce same heat or more due to its turbo

when an en gine is idling it wont produce as much heat so when stopped at lights the radiator size will not matter as much when we r talkin bout afew cms

when i drive the temps drop quickly again

so its basically bad air flow when stationary i cant get enough air flow

maybe ill try either a good 16 in thermo

or try fit 2 10 in fans

does anyone know the thickness of the ford fans

i only have 80mm from front of engine and the back of radiator

havin no shroud doesnt help either

i have nevr been one who likes thermo fans but i just dont have the room for the factory clutch fan
 
Ford fans are 90mm thick.

I originally had a single 14" Davies Craig thermo fan.

Was MORE than sufficient for the old 3.0L 6cyl.
But when it came to the 1uz, even on a cold night, the temperature would eventually increase. (Took about 15secs for gauge to move on a warm day, and about 2mins on a cool night).
Like you, once I was 100m down the road, the temperature was back to normal.

Popped on some AU Thermo's, and now there are no problems.
They move a d!ickload of air, and keep the motor at my desired temp.

They come on at 94, and turn off about 84-86.
Cruising speed temp sits on 85-88
 
Here is a quick pic of them on a standard MX73 Radiator
thermos_3.jpg
 
Im running the standard 98 hilux rad in mine and even without a fan it just doesnt get hot, it is alloy rad which makes all the differance, had it idling for an hour in the backyard while trying to jumpstart annother car and temp stayed on half which is were it sits as soon as it gets up to temp, never had a car like this, BTW crown rad is copper core, alloy cools muuuuuch better
 
well i never have any probs untill the outside temp gets over 30

but im slowly gettin there

its hard to get time off and i dont want to pay someone because i know this type of work will cost heaps

not like just a quick part replacement

eyr those ford fans look trick

wish i had room

just strange why all other 1uzs ive done havnt had any probs

but i never had any probs till a month ago when we hit summer

maybe in 2 months my probs will all go hehe
 
hey pee wee could you please measure the dimensions acroos and down of the radiator fans please

i might take zuffens advice and remove the pulley that runs the orig clutch fan and get a smaller belt

this way it will give me bit more clearance

with the pulley removed i think ill have 95 mm clearance

i wonder if this will be enough

hehe
 
Jim,

I'm chasing an overheating problem too. Im running EF falcon fans and the mx83 cressida radiator. The car overheats at anything over 100km/h and particularly under load (uphill runs at highway speeds etc) also at revs over 3000 so it's definitely an issue with cooling and airflow. I dont have a problem at idle or city speeds unless holding it in second gear thereby keeping the revs up, and its a good 20 minutes before the engine overwhelms the cooling system.
As some of you know, my conversion was done last march, so the overheating only became apparent this summer. The car was taken on its first long run (2000 km) this new years holidays, and started acting up on the way home in 35 degree heat. I also had a lack of power generally.

Once home found out that I had stuffed up on the ecu wiring and my igntion timing was retarded. My engine is from a UZS141 crown and had traction control, when removing it there is a trick with the sub tps to trick the factory ecu into ignoring the Trac signals - short pins 1&2 and 3&4 separately and cut the resistor track between the two pairs, this tells the ecu that the sub throttle is both open fully and closed fully at the same time. I knew about it when doing the wiring initially but forgot to alter the tps switch. Could this be an issue with yours?

Performance is much better - gears change properly now - and engine bay temps are lower. I still have the overheating issue - but not as bad. My next steps are radiator and fit an oil cooler.
The joys of stuffing a big engine in a small bay :D
 
my 1uz is a crown too but has 2 ecus

one for auto the other for engine

i dont have timing issues

mine overheats just like yours

i just fitted a bigger 3 core radiator

cooling is ok while driving slowly

on long trips it gets up to 100

i think its air flow

yr cressida would be the same

not enough air flow engine bay too cramped maybe

air can get in but not out

im goin back to the radiator mob and ask them for any ideas

i put vents in my bonnet but that didnt do much

i have little room for big thermos

but even then it should cool ok at 100 kph

ill see what they say

see my temp gauge doesnt show that it gets bit hot

its my scanner that shows me actual temp

so im wondering maybe there are more 1uzs out there with similar prob

just that the temp gauge doesnt show that its overheating

toyota temp gauges are funny

it has to be very very hot for gauge to move abit past normal runnin temp

my gauge stays in similar spot from 85 to 100 degrees

when it hit 115 degrees thats when u can just see it move
 

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well I just did trip to perth (480k) to get my hilux engineered, sat on 110 all the way with old motor an box in the back 28 deg outside an no overheating an like I said I only got stock hilux rad an one little 10 inch thermo, I cant see why you guys are havn a prob, also got 22 mpg loaded 25 empty on way home
 
what i have been told regarding toyota temp gauges is that if yr engine is say 10 degrees too hot then the gauge still doesnt move much

like i said before

if i go by the temp gauge my engine seems fine

if i go by what the scanner says then its a touch hot

i hope one day i can plug my scanner in another std 1uz and see how it runs

i need a std car to compare results
 

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Radiator size must have a lot to do with it. My conversion runs a 3 core chev type radiator. On a 150km trip doing between 110 and 120 all the way and toeing a tandem trailer and car it never got hot. Going up hills that lasted for 2 km or so the guage may creep up to 180 deg but would cool down within 30 sec after going over hill back down to about 170 deg. The fan Im running is a standard crown viscouse hub type and running a radiator shrowd. It seems to move a lot of air but there is a fair amount of room in the engine bay
 
It's only really an issue in 30+ degree heat and sustained high revs/speed for more than half an hour or so, and then under load.
I'm also thinking that under load we have more heat transfer from the auto - maybe an external transmission cooler would help?
 


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