ecu for supercharged v8

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
very helpful stuff mate thanks. i think the xtreme is the way im leaning, just for future scope?

do you have any idea what size supercharger pulley i should go for, its currently running a 6psi pulley im unsure of what size that actually is?
currently running around 400hp at this pressure, if im going to spend the money on standalone and mapping, then i would like at least another 100hp ? any ideas on pulley size, and also i suppose i may have to upgrade to 8pk or 10pk pulleys and belts to stop the belt slipping.
 
Flick me an email [email protected] and I can see what sort of price I can do on an Xtreme for you. I have been working with CribbJ on options for running an Xtreme on his supercharged beast. We have a local engineer that makes up gilmour drives for us when we start having slipping problems on superchargers. Cheers Kelvin
 
vortech v1 supercharger

currently running 6-7psi on vortech fmu 12:1 400FWHP.

std injectors, but maxxing out at high rpm, (or afm maxxing??)

whats the next step to be able to increase boost.

can any1 recommend a piggyback or standalone ecu on a budget. or is there anyway i can use std ecu?

im in the uk, so needs to be a system that mappers are able to work with

thanks
nick
Just out of curiosity, what car are you having this system on?
 
its currently in a mk3 supra, but i am possibly purchasing the supercharger kit to fit to an sc400/soarer yes.
 
I see. :p Regardless of the cost, there're actually both advantages and disadvantages of the standalone ecu.
Advantages: wide range of controlling/tuning the engine and auto tranny. Due to the complete controlling of the engine and tranny, the max hp can be achieved.

Disadvantages: Not too many tuners know how to tune the auto tranny. A crappy tune of the auto tranny will give a sluggish or tiredsome driving. Manual tranny is no worry. Another thing is controlling electronic accessories. A standalone may not be compatible with those.

On the other hand, a good/hi-end piggyback ecu can be used to tune engine/boost/timing while it still retains accessories and the way the auto tranny was set up from stock. Basically, the OEM ecu is kept to control the accessories and the auto tranny, while the piggyback ecu controls the engine/boost/timing. Some piggybacks have similar options like standalone ecus.

I had been looking into AEM FI/C piggyback before deciding to go with the standalone AEM. I read and it's pretty good. It's not because the standalone is better. It's because I had a good deal on the standalone. In fact, the AEM FI/C and the wiring costs the same as the AEM standalone.
 
forget bout trans ecus
once u need to do that then u might as well have open cheque book and u might open a can of worms
just get an ok ecu and just piggy back it to just run injecotrs and 2 coils
because of the auto its no use going to far with it so keep it basic run a piggy back ecu
leave orig ecu to run air con and idle etc etc
would be cheapest way out of it
 
I see. :p Regardless of the cost, there're actually both advantages and disadvantages of the standalone ecu.
Advantages: wide range of controlling/tuning the engine and auto tranny. Due to the complete controlling of the engine and tranny, the max hp can be achieved.

Disadvantages: Not too many tuners know how to tune the auto tranny. A crappy tune of the auto tranny will give a sluggish or tiredsome driving. Manual tranny is no worry. Another thing is controlling electronic accessories. A standalone may not be compatible with those.

On the other hand, a good/hi-end piggyback ecu can be used to tune engine/boost/timing while it still retains accessories and the way the auto tranny was set up from stock. Basically, the OEM ecu is kept to control the accessories and the auto tranny, while the piggyback ecu controls the engine/boost/timing. Some piggybacks have similar options like standalone ecus.

I had been looking into AEM FI/C piggyback before deciding to go with the standalone AEM. I read and it's pretty good. It's not because the standalone is better. It's because I had a good deal on the standalone. In fact, the AEM FI/C and the wiring costs the same as the AEM standalone.

which comes back to my original suggestion of using the megasquirt. It can do everything as far as engine controll and can be integrated with a lot of accessories, and on newer cars it can even work with the factory can bus network. plus if you did want to go with an auto, which the op hasstated he doesn't, it can controll that too and they're inexpensive, even for the upper quality units.
 


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