I relocated my battery to the trunk this weekend. I used 4 guage Monster wire from underhood to the trunk and the battery is an Optima yellow top. It works but just barely. It seems to struggle a bit when starting the car up (especially in the morning when its cold). I figured the extra cranking amps of the battery would compensate for the loss from the wires, but it appears to not be enough. Is it that the battery just isnt strong enough to work from the trunk? Would possibly wiring in a amplifier capacitor close to the ingition possibly solve this problem, or do I just need a larger battery? Also, does anybody know what fuse to use in this application? I had a 30 amp fuse but it just blew when I tried to start the car.
Battery Relocation
- Thread starter XxSC400xX
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The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
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Your starter probably draws 75-80 amps when you turn the key. I think the LS runs a 160 amp fusible link in the starter cable so your 30 amp job doesn't stand a chance.
A capacitor wouldn't be able to supply current long enough to have any effect.
You need to use proper starter cable. You are suffering voltage drop as your cables are not big enough for the task. Monster cable is fine for big amps but not starters. You also run the risk of starting a fire should you keep cranking the engine as the cable may overheat and set surrounding materials alight.
You need to buy the right stuff from an auto parts supplier and fit it. The reminals on the ends should be crimped and soldered to ensure trouble free operation. Better still have them fit it as they will ensure the temrination is right.
A capacitor wouldn't be able to supply current long enough to have any effect.
You need to use proper starter cable. You are suffering voltage drop as your cables are not big enough for the task. Monster cable is fine for big amps but not starters. You also run the risk of starting a fire should you keep cranking the engine as the cable may overheat and set surrounding materials alight.
You need to buy the right stuff from an auto parts supplier and fit it. The reminals on the ends should be crimped and soldered to ensure trouble free operation. Better still have them fit it as they will ensure the temrination is right.
Lextreme II
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Couple of things. I relocated my battery and I understand exactly what u r talking about. U might experience dead battery pretty soon if you drive short distant or lots of start/stop situation.
Here is what u should do.
*First get a larger wire gauge like one odd (Zero Gauge)
*Ground it well to the frame using the same size wire
*Make sure you have strong connection at the with the starter and alternator
The connection of the alternator and starter wire is where the problem. Make sure good contact.
Here is what u should do.
*First get a larger wire gauge like one odd (Zero Gauge)
*Ground it well to the frame using the same size wire
*Make sure you have strong connection at the with the starter and alternator
The connection of the alternator and starter wire is where the problem. Make sure good contact.
xirforever
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I relocated my battery with a 4 guage monster wire and it runs fine... so obviously you dont NEED a zero gauge wire. XxSC400xX save you money and time and just make sure you have everything wired with the least amount of resistance. And make sure your using a 4 gauge wire to ground the battery in the trunk. Maybe you grounded the wire in the trunk on a piece of metal with some paint on it... just go and double check everything has a good connection with little resistance.
Lextreme II
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The key is Contact and Connection. The minimum resistance as possible.
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I would be very wary or incinerating my car with 4 gauge.
I strongly recommend you speak with your local auto electics man and get his opinion.
Fire and cars don't mix that well.
I strongly recommend you speak with your local auto electics man and get his opinion.
Fire and cars don't mix that well.
Peewee
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I just relocated mine with 4 guage, it turns over a bit slower, but still works fine
The cable is rated at about 160A, so I have a 150A circuit breaker there for safety.
As other ppl have said, make sure the earth are good.
I previously had one 4 guage earth at the battery, and one about 6 guage at the block, and it turned over slowly.
I now have 2 4 guage earths from my battery to my chassis, and 2 4 guage earths from my block to my chassis. Turns over almost as good.
I do plan to run another 4 guage in parallel soon, but haven't got there yet.
Dont forget the block to chassis.
All the current going to the starter motor has to go to ground, and if you only have a small earth on the block, you aren't getting the full current.
Remember, an electrical system is only as strong as the weakest link.
And lastly, the start motor will draw about 60A while turning the motor over without too much trouble.
Increase the mechanical resistance, and it will increase to about 120A.
I firstly used an 80A fuse, and on the first start up, it was fine.
I then tried it a few minutes later, and the fuse blew.
Get a 150A Circuit Breaker off Ebay, or if you go 2, 1 or 0 guage, use a 200-250A circuit breaker.
The cable is rated at about 160A, so I have a 150A circuit breaker there for safety.
As other ppl have said, make sure the earth are good.
I previously had one 4 guage earth at the battery, and one about 6 guage at the block, and it turned over slowly.
I now have 2 4 guage earths from my battery to my chassis, and 2 4 guage earths from my block to my chassis. Turns over almost as good.
I do plan to run another 4 guage in parallel soon, but haven't got there yet.
Dont forget the block to chassis.
All the current going to the starter motor has to go to ground, and if you only have a small earth on the block, you aren't getting the full current.
Remember, an electrical system is only as strong as the weakest link.
And lastly, the start motor will draw about 60A while turning the motor over without too much trouble.
Increase the mechanical resistance, and it will increase to about 120A.
I firstly used an 80A fuse, and on the first start up, it was fine.
I then tried it a few minutes later, and the fuse blew.
Get a 150A Circuit Breaker off Ebay, or if you go 2, 1 or 0 guage, use a 200-250A circuit breaker.
fastegg
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Battery in trunk...
Hey you guys that have relocated your battery to the trunk.... Was there any noticable change to the handling / steering ? Its something I'd like to do in my '98 LS if there's something in it.....
Hey you guys that have relocated your battery to the trunk.... Was there any noticable change to the handling / steering ? Its something I'd like to do in my '98 LS if there's something in it.....
spf_lexus
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I relocated mine to the trunk, and it handled noticebly better. Crisper turn in and less nose dive.
I have relocated 3 different battery setups for the UZ and i found that a single 2 gauge line was plenty. Like Sideshow said, 4 gauge is a bit on the small side but if your not FI or running several amplifiers, its enough. I also run a Lextreme 140amp alternator w/ upgraded 2 gauge grounds and 2 gauge alt. cable.
I have relocated 3 different battery setups for the UZ and i found that a single 2 gauge line was plenty. Like Sideshow said, 4 gauge is a bit on the small side but if your not FI or running several amplifiers, its enough. I also run a Lextreme 140amp alternator w/ upgraded 2 gauge grounds and 2 gauge alt. cable.
fastegg
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That's good..... I'tll be something i do when i get my baby fixed.....
What's a Supra BBK ?
What's a Supra BBK ?
spf_lexus
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BBK= Big Brake Kit. Tey are the OEM front brakes off the 93-98 supra TT.
fastegg
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Oh... The '98's got a BBK standard.... as well as a BFI...
..what's a Corbeau LG1's. ?
..what's a Corbeau LG1's. ?
fastegg
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1999 LS 400 audio upgrade
Hey Mr spf Lexus.... Well Ive been sitting around patiently waiting for your supossed 'expert' report on LS400 audio upgrade.... ive heard its full of American know-how..........so......... when's the big day ?....... or do i just go down and get a garden variety Wall-mart speaker upgrade kit ?
???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
Hey Mr spf Lexus.... Well Ive been sitting around patiently waiting for your supossed 'expert' report on LS400 audio upgrade.... ive heard its full of American know-how..........so......... when's the big day ?....... or do i just go down and get a garden variety Wall-mart speaker upgrade kit ?
???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
spf_lexus
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If you feel wal mart speakers are what your stereo needs, then by all means go for it. I wont be making it afterall just because I have too much going on and no camera at the moment. I would also appreciate it if you'd eliminate your sarcasm and maybe contribute to the discussion versus asking needless q's. Thank you.
fastegg
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my apoligies... i take onboard what you've said....
fastegg
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Here's something i wrote about 1UZ and Cressida's
Dam ! I had a 1990 Cressida Grande that went to Cressida heaven after 400,000km and 2 engines both which suffered terminal head gasket issues. It still had the origional A360E transmission and LSD both of which still worked perfectly..... now if you knew just how hard i drove this car, it's a real testament to just how sturdy and well made the Cressida was.
Like, everything still worked, it had no rattles, noises or leak's and when i purchased it at 170,000km it was already on LPG so no problems with anything LPG related. It probably did 10,000km HARD on Australian dirt roads, you could drive it FLAT OUT on ruff dirt and it handled like a well set up rally car...you could drive it on the back wheels everywhere... The STD clutch type LSD seemed to work great, although its been the only car ive ever had with an LSD so i don't know any different.....
...Now back on the 1UZ subject.. when my Cressida died, i thought it would be a top car to put a 1UZ into espesially when they both ran the same auto. In the state i live (N.S.W.) the law says i can change engines without an engineers report as long as its by the same manufacturer and no more than one litre bigger but when i sold the Cressida and before i bought my UCF21 i didn't know anything or anyone who had done it, so i never did the swap.... Now that ive spent a zillion hours on the forums and now have heaps of 'data', a 1UZ V8 Cressida would be a much better performance car than an LS400.
My 1999 LS400 HATES dirt roads with a passion, it understeers to the point that it just doesn't steer, it just goes straight ahead, it HATES tight stuff, HATES bumpy stuff, infact, it HATES just about everything except roads that were designed for Lexus's to drive on..... It's everything that the Cressida isn't. My cressida was about the closest thing to a factory performance car as you can get..... it just lacked HP..
190hp i think ?.................. now.......... imagine a 290hp VVTi V8 that was legal and quite achievable and at a kerb weight of 1450KG, its 250-300KG lighter than an LS400.... it'd make a TOP V8 sports car.....
Dam ! I had a 1990 Cressida Grande that went to Cressida heaven after 400,000km and 2 engines both which suffered terminal head gasket issues. It still had the origional A360E transmission and LSD both of which still worked perfectly..... now if you knew just how hard i drove this car, it's a real testament to just how sturdy and well made the Cressida was.
Like, everything still worked, it had no rattles, noises or leak's and when i purchased it at 170,000km it was already on LPG so no problems with anything LPG related. It probably did 10,000km HARD on Australian dirt roads, you could drive it FLAT OUT on ruff dirt and it handled like a well set up rally car...you could drive it on the back wheels everywhere... The STD clutch type LSD seemed to work great, although its been the only car ive ever had with an LSD so i don't know any different.....
...Now back on the 1UZ subject.. when my Cressida died, i thought it would be a top car to put a 1UZ into espesially when they both ran the same auto. In the state i live (N.S.W.) the law says i can change engines without an engineers report as long as its by the same manufacturer and no more than one litre bigger but when i sold the Cressida and before i bought my UCF21 i didn't know anything or anyone who had done it, so i never did the swap.... Now that ive spent a zillion hours on the forums and now have heaps of 'data', a 1UZ V8 Cressida would be a much better performance car than an LS400.
My 1999 LS400 HATES dirt roads with a passion, it understeers to the point that it just doesn't steer, it just goes straight ahead, it HATES tight stuff, HATES bumpy stuff, infact, it HATES just about everything except roads that were designed for Lexus's to drive on..... It's everything that the Cressida isn't. My cressida was about the closest thing to a factory performance car as you can get..... it just lacked HP..
190hp i think ?.................. now.......... imagine a 290hp VVTi V8 that was legal and quite achievable and at a kerb weight of 1450KG, its 250-300KG lighter than an LS400.... it'd make a TOP V8 sports car.....
Hi Guys. Coming back to the battery relocation, I have always used welding machine cable in all the race and rally cars I have built. Just make sure you get good quality. For a battery located in the trunk you cannot use a cable less than 35 mm2 (just slightly bigger than 2 gauge) if you want reliable starting and safety. All the other points raised earlier are very valid.
Armed_N'_Hammered
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Decided to start this make work project, but what is the best method for connecting the + cable? Run a new cable right to the starter? Or just bolt to the old + cable up front?
Im thinking of running the old + cable as far as I can under the car (in fuel line tray, straightest possible route I see) and butt connect the new + from the trunk.
As for - cable is one ground wire in the trunk fine? Or would running a wire up front and grounding to the block be better? Or both?
Im thinking of running the old + cable as far as I can under the car (in fuel line tray, straightest possible route I see) and butt connect the new + from the trunk.
As for - cable is one ground wire in the trunk fine? Or would running a wire up front and grounding to the block be better? Or both?
Armed_N'_Hammered
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Not sure if this thread is dead or its just the time of year.
Either way, I bought some 2ga. welding cable, ran it under the car to the trunk, and butt connected to the old positive wire, which I took off the block and ran as far back under the car as possible. This way there is only an increase of about 9ft. of cable.
Ill post pics once Im done if there is interest.
Either way, I bought some 2ga. welding cable, ran it under the car to the trunk, and butt connected to the old positive wire, which I took off the block and ran as far back under the car as possible. This way there is only an increase of about 9ft. of cable.
Ill post pics once Im done if there is interest.
