1uzfe into MA70 wiring question

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
well if its off 1 or 2 teeth on the cams, then they are out either 7.5 deg's or 15 deg's respectively, which translates into either 15 deg's or 30 deg's at the crank. if they are off in a retarded direction, then that would explain the no run and back fire issues assuming that the backfire was in the exhaust and not the intake and that both cams are off in the same direction.
 
ITS ALIVE! i adjusted the cam timing (took 2 tries), earthed the computer, and it started right up. What a sound! tomorrow the motor comes out too put in the mounts i got from cjsupra. after that, i need to find a driveshaft, a throttle cable, clean up the wiring a bit, and i should be all set. Thanks to all of you for your help, im sure i'll need more yet, but you guys rock.
 
Great to hear it fired up for you. I know the feeling well. When my Celica 1UZ fired up for the first time, I wanted to make a toast. Mine had no exhaust after the manifolds, and the sound was just amazing, and quite shocking for just a smooth running 4.0L. At 1800 rpm, it roars like a Pro Stock car, but at idle it was a nice V8 burble. I can't wait to hear it through the muffler and take it for a real drive.

Gary M.
 

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I don't know what GT400 needs for his drive shaft. In my case, I have a cobbled together drive shaft made from about 1 foot of the Lexus drive shaft slid inside the front part of the chopped off Celica shaft and welded together. It fit in snug and looks fairly good, but the rubber drive ring is at too much of an angle, it is forcing my center bearing pretty far off center low trying to reduce this angle, and I doubt the balance is very good. It should be fine for the Emissions test, but I don't want to put too many miles on that setup. Here is what I want to do.
http://lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6372
It puts the slip yoke in the drive shaft and uses an LS400 trans without any internal mods.

Gary M.
 
Why do you neen to find a DS, what tranny are you using?
for now the stock automatic. i just need to get it mounted and see how long i need it to be. i'm hoping that the ds out of a stock auto supra will be long enough, but thas just hoping.

Eventually i plan to swap to manual, but thats after the car is running reliably.
 
are you talking stock supra auto with bellhousing and TQ converter swapped or the stock auto from the lexus?

If you are talking stock supra auto, the the stock DS should work perfectly fine. I designed the mounts to allow the tranny to sit in its stock location so that the DS and mount/crossmember would fit fine and the shifter (manual trans) would be in the same location.
 
no, i'm using the stock lexus tranny. mostly because it mounts to the motor, lol. but im thinking a sc400 ds might fit. if not, then i'll figure something out.

oh, i got the motor mounted up tonight. i havent measures the crossmember clearance, but i know its not hitting. unfortunately, the left valve cover is hitting the brake booster. i vaugely remember reading something about changing it for another booster, but dont remember which. did you have to change yours, or have you tried it yet?

Thanks,
Daniel
 
Mine was just missing the brake booster, I could get a piece of paper between them, as the motor rocked with torque it moulded its own custom depression into the brake booster.
 
Unfortunitly, I haven't fitted mine yet. I didn't think that we would have a problem with left hand drive cars cause the left bank of the motor is the forward back and is by like 21mm or so. Can you talk a pic from directly above the booster/ cam cover interferance area and post it or email it to me.

Yeah, the early to mid 80's toyota Hilux pick up has the booster that will clear.

How bad is it hitting? If its not hitting much at all, you can dent the area in a bit. Another option is that if it is just barely hitting, you can slot the holes in the mounts a bit to be able to move the motor and trans forward a hair to gain clearance.
 
well, its hitting pretty solidly. I'm going to try to sneak it under the brake booster and see if that helps. i'll get a picture tomorrow, and it'll make more sense. i dont think denting it would be a wise option, but swaping it may be. I'm taking a night off tonight to catch up on the stuff i've been putting off around the house, but i'll be back at it tomorrow. thanks

Daniel
 
yeah, denting it in is not the best option and I wouldn't do it unless it was under an 1/8" or so like if it is just rubbing then the 1/8" would give you just enough clearance. I still cant see why its hitting being that the head is 21mm forward on that side and Phil made it sound that it was only hitting slightly in the right hand drives there in NZ. May we got an even thinker booster or something.

Actually, the more that I think about it, that is a good possibility being that the turbo(s) are on the right side so right hand drives might have had the firewall formed differnt and or a thinner booster for clearance reasones to the turbo(s).
 
On my left hand drive US 83 Celica RA65, (firewall should be very similar to MA6X Supra) the brake booster just cleared the head. I figure it is about 1/4 inch between there. As far as I can tell the engine is dead level left to right and centered between the strut towers. It is set quite low on the cross member. The front sump LS motor fits over the stock 22R celica cross member like it was factory designed for it. I have no idea what the MA cross member might be doing to you though. You certainly have quite a bit more length to deal with. My motor is so far back in the engine bay, I can't get my hand behind it. Just putting a loop across the heater core outlets was a major pain. I can't move the motor forward though as the bottom of the trans bell housing is very close to the factory power steering cooler loop, and I only have about 1 inch between the front of the forward most pulley (water pump I think, it had the fan clutch on it) on the engine and the radiator.

Good Luck

Gary M.
 
yeah, theres tons of room in front of the motor, but the mounts are made to set it as far forward as possible already. there may be a way to get it in there, i dont know yet. for the first test fit, i took the tranny off and dropped it straight in. so it may fit better with the tranny on sliding it under the booster. I'll filnd out later and let you all know, with pictures.

D.
 
Ok, I just went out and took some dimensions and noticed something that I never noticed before. The front and back of the heads are on the same plane so even though ther left bank is 21mm forward, the back of the head os still back as far as the right side, so as Phill had to in his swaps, we will also have to change the booster.

I will say this though, the dinensions seemed to be both 7.75" from the center of the mount to the face of the booster and 7.75" from the center of the mount to the back edge of the cam cover where it seems that it would hit. Now I dont have the equipment here at the house to get an exact measurement so they might be slightly off, but very close.
 
well, i took pictures and then left the camera with the car, 15 minutes away. but, theres really no way the stock booster is going to work unless you cah move the motor forward signifigantly. however, the brake booster off an 81 2wd pickup should work beautifully. its $138 from advance auto, but it should fit and work like stock, maybe with a slightly stiffer pedal with a little luck.

I'll get those pictures to you guys noonish tomorrow.

D.

edit: ah, what the heck, i'll go get the camera now...
 


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