1uzfe into MA70 wiring question

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GT400

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95
Location
Oak Ridge, Tennessee, USA
i finally got my 1u into the car, now i just need to figure out how to get it running. i've still got the original fues box in the supra, which i see in other folks' completed swap, but i thinkim in over my head. If anyone can help me out, i'd love to hear this puppy run.
 
So after a (too) long financial break from this project, im back at the same spot. I've got the alternator wiring taken care of, it was rather straighforward. But other than that, i'm pretty far lost. I've tried using wiring diagrams from both to find matching wires, but have only found a couple, and im not sure on those. for example, i know in theory all the components of the starting system, but cant find the wires.

the wiring harness on the motor terminates around the stock supra fuse box with two plugs, one 3 pin connector, and one 8 pin connector. the best i can tell, several of the 8 pin connections are for trac and abs. i can take pictures if i need to to help.

Tired of squinting at wiring diagrams,
Daniel
 
I wish that I could help you out more, but I am not using any of the factory wiring from the 1uz and there is very little left of the MA70 wiring due to the fact that I am running a full on stand alone EMS. I'll take a look at the wiring harness that came on my motor over the weekend and see what all I can figure out for you. The bad part is the jackasses at the place that I got the motor from cut the damn harness at the firewall do I dont have the ecu connection to be able to trace anything easily. I can tell you just about anything that you want to know about the MA70 wiring if that will help.

If you can, make up a list of know wires from the 1UZ harness that you need to know, and I should be able to tell you where they need to be graffed into the MA70.

Also, if you haven't already, check your PM about the mount stands.
 
I'm unsure of the difference between *** spec and USA spec wiring but for *** spec toyotas it is simple to get them running. Connect power to all the black/red wires(small red trace), connect power to all the black orange wires(small orange trace), check there is power at the injectors and diagnostic box. If not use multimeter to find those power supplies if not present. Make the fuel pump go, ensure the ignitor bodies are earthed then feed power to the start wire - big black wire with a white trace and it should go. It may sound basic but it works for me everytime, since wiring my first 1uz toyota standard management is alot easier. Once it runs the wiring diagrams will make sense of how to adapt it into the MA70. As I said this works for me. Good luck. Cheers
 
Ok, making progress! i now have a working starter (thanks cjsupra90) and power to the computer, harness, injectors, etc. my current hang up is the fuel pump. On the zfe, there is a fuel pump computer, on the supra theres not. i know which wires on the supra make the pump go, but i dont know how to make it work without straightwiring it. i think / hope that this is all that is keeping this baby form running. so i'll buy the person who can tell me how to get the pump to run without running anytime the key is on a beer. (assuming you come to tennessee to get it).

Thanks guys,
Daniel
 
some new issues. so for testing purposes, i hot wired the fuel pump and turned it over. nothing. do a little checking, no power to the ignitors, etc. So i check my wires and hook one more to power, and now i have power at the coils, ignitors, and BOTH sides of the injectors... so now im really confused. i did get a nice violent backfire though, which is the most ive seen yet, so i know im on the right track, just not there yet.
 
Sounds like miss wiring of the plug wires. Check that all the plug wires are correct (firing order 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2) and it flip flops from side to side on the caps, the caps should be numbered. If they have both numbers (as everyone that I have ever seen) then the left side cap will be used for 1,4,6,7 and the right side cap 8,3,5,2. Also remember that the left bank is cylinders 1,3,5,7 and the right bank is 2,4,6,8
 
well, i tried re wiring the plugs to make sure. i assume by left bank you mean looking at the motor, so the passenger side.
and what really threw me off was the fact that both terminals on the injectors have power, is that normal?

of course the other possibility is that the mechanical timing is off, in which case i may go cry.
 
no, the left side is the drivers side (left and right sides for anything on a car is always viewed as if you are sitting in the seat of the car.)

Yes it is normal for both sides of the injector to show power when the key is on. The injector is just a coil winding so power will show up on both side. The computer completes the circuit to ground to fire the injector when needed. If you ever have a case where an injector does not show power on both sides then the inj. is shot. (broken internal winding)

As for the mechanical timing, as far as I know, it is non adjustable on these motors. Makes me wonder way there are numbers on the front cover as if you could adjust the timing. My only assumption is for Diagnostic purposes or maybe lexus had a computer that can readjust the base timing in the lookup tables in the computer or something.
 
I just got my 1993 LS400 1UZ fired up a few days ago. Too bad I left my books in the car, 2500 miles away from me, but I can try to help you diagnose what is happening.

First off, try reading if the ECU stored any codes for you. The diagnostic connector on the motor should work if the ECU was wired in correctly. Jump pins TE1 and E1, then the "Check Engine" light should flash out the codes. If it just stays flashing steady, it has not stored a code since power was connected. Makes sure you have constant power to the batt lead of the ECU and try cranking it over. If it is missing any sensor leads, it should set the codes pretty fast. I had the Fuel Pump ECU from my donor car, and it is running my Bosch fuel pump just fine. Without the FPECU, it will store a code, but it should run fine with the pump wired to run with ignition on. You can also try a compression check. If you are getting over 140 psi in each cylinder, then you know the cam timing has to be pretty close. When I finished the wiring, I also went through and just checked virtually every pin of the ECU to make sure it had the correct signal, power, ground, or watever the book called for. I left all of the ABS TRAC and CRUISE wires open, and it has not set any error codes. My tank was 1/4 full of 4 year old gas and it still fired up quick. I did die after a few seconds the first time, but that was due to a few vacuum leaks. The brake booster hose lets in enough un-metered air that it goes very lean. For it to fire in cold start mode, it only needs the AFM signal, NE, G1, G2, Igniters, Injectors, TPS, and Idle switch. It pretty much ignores the rest of the sensors until it starts to heat up.

Good luck getting it running. I was so pleased, and relieved when mine fired to life. I still had open headers, and the roar was shocking.

Gary M.
 
ok, so i got the spark plug wires correct, and still nothing. now i'm thinking that the cams are out of time. with the crank at the 0 mark, the cams do't seem to be pointing anywhere in particular. i replaced the belt back before i found this site, and it looks like i got it wrong. unfortunately, i wont have another chance to work on it and make sure until next week, when i pull the motor back out to install some mounts, Woo!
 
I have not yet seen a Toyota cam gear that wasn't marked to go with markings on the back cover. Look for notches in the actual tooth.
 
yeah, that was part of the problem. theres a notch, a tab, and in my case, a paint mark on my cam gears. I'm also used to the cam gears pointing straight up (7m motors). so i'll see just how bad it is when i get back in town..
 
If looking at the front of the motor, your right or left/driver side will have the mark on the steel back plate behind the cam gear and it will be at roughly the 11 o'clock position and the right/passanger side your left will have the make on that back plate at roughly the 1 o'clock position.
 
i actually sneaked a check before i left, and the cams are off, but not by much (1-2 teeth). i think it didnt run because the computer wasnt grounded. that sound resonable?
 
I think the ECU will also set an error if the two cam position sensors are not the correct spacing apart. There has to be a proper number of crank sensor teeth (NE) between the cam sensor pulses (G1 and G2). If the ECU is not grounded at all, you would not get injection, spark, check engine light, or anything else. If the Exx wires of the ECU plugs are all grounded, you should be okay, but the case should also be grounded. While getting mine running, I ran ground wires to the cases of the main ECU and the Fuel Pump ECU just to be onb the safe side. Right on the engine, there is a DLC diagnostic connector, just try jumping TE1 and E1 and turn the key on. This should give a steady flashing Check Engine light if there are no error codes. Then you know at least the ECU is powered and functioning. And if it has a code, you can fix that problem right away.
 


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