1UZ into a Commodore
- Thread starter MaxPower
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The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I sit on 3000rpm @ 100kph with 4.1s, but I'm dropping in a 3.7 so that should bring it down to 2700rpm.
But even at 3000rpm I still reckon I can get under 10L/100km on a pure country run.
Will know in a few weeks.
At the moment its about 17L/100km, but thats a lot of fanging around the streets, and fuckall freeway. Plus its running rich enough to see black smoke at idle.
Does anyone else agree that halfburnt ULT98 smells wrong? Like a mixture of melting plastic and burning paint.
What i mean is more shock loading the diff ie. bashing it through the gears with a manual box. You can still have fun but just have to have some respect. For example a friend has a datto with enough grunt to turn the tyres in 4th gear when it comes on boost (in the dry) but still has the stock rear end.
If you are keen on a 9" though, speak to Veem Engineering as they sell conversions that just bolt in.
MaxPower
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FI is a must!! Its not that the 1UZ isnt enough, it goes fine, but there is never enough under the right foot.
Got some 3.9 diff gears fitted along with a Lokka, its out of a 4wd, unlocks when going round corners with no load but stomp the throttle and it locks everything up like a spool, its good fun!!. Had the CV joint fail in the tailshaft the other week due to very poor work by the tailshaft mob which caused the rear gearbox seal to leak due to massive vibrations (new seal hasn't fixed it either, its better but still leaks slightly) but other than that little set back all is running sweet.
Looking for another 1UZ to start work on fabricating some exhaust manifolds for a turbo (leaning towards an internally gated GT35/40R at this stage, similar to the BA XR6 turbo)
Got some 3.9 diff gears fitted along with a Lokka, its out of a 4wd, unlocks when going round corners with no load but stomp the throttle and it locks everything up like a spool, its good fun!!. Had the CV joint fail in the tailshaft the other week due to very poor work by the tailshaft mob which caused the rear gearbox seal to leak due to massive vibrations (new seal hasn't fixed it either, its better but still leaks slightly) but other than that little set back all is running sweet.
Looking for another 1UZ to start work on fabricating some exhaust manifolds for a turbo (leaning towards an internally gated GT35/40R at this stage, similar to the BA XR6 turbo)
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Max,
What 4b is the locka out of?
What 4b is the locka out of?
MaxPower
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It suits a Borg Warner 28 spline, dunno what 4b it was designed for. It is the same or close to a lock-right, the packaging is from the company i bought it from (4wd systems in adelaide) but it says it is copyrighted to Lock-Right (an american company). At the bottom of the page here.. http://www.4wdsystems.com.au/html/lokka.htm ..it shows what types are available.
Peewee
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Sounds like my Torsen centre.
Remains opencentre until you apply some torque to it (and by some, I mean little), then it locks up like its welded.
At least thats the word I've heard from others, mine is still sitting in the garage in its little TrueTrac box
Remains opencentre until you apply some torque to it (and by some, I mean little), then it locks up like its welded.
At least thats the word I've heard from others, mine is still sitting in the garage in its little TrueTrac box
MaxPower
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Does the same thing as a torsen centre, just has less parts. Id say the torsen is no where near as harsh as the Lokka though, the Lokka could never be used on a production car as it can be pretty severe in the wet, and dry for that matter. It is also a ratchet style so it makes clicking noises when cornering. But the up side is it wont break, the rest of the diff will tear its self apart before the lokka does.
krayn
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Max Power,
What ratio were you running in the diff prior to 3.9? Ive got 3.08 and going to 3.7. Hope it will liven it up out of the hole. Did your ratio change make much of a difference? cheers Kris
What ratio were you running in the diff prior to 3.9? Ive got 3.08 and going to 3.7. Hope it will liven it up out of the hole. Did your ratio change make much of a difference? cheers Kris
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Kris,
If you go to a numerically lower ratio (down to 3.7 from 3.8) you're actually increasing the cars top speed and slowing down the accelation.
If you want it to get out of the hole you need to go up toward 4.1 or higher. The point at which traction becomes a problem is where you've got the right ratio. This presumes you don't run out of revs half way down the strip.
If you go to a numerically lower ratio (down to 3.7 from 3.8) you're actually increasing the cars top speed and slowing down the accelation.
If you want it to get out of the hole you need to go up toward 4.1 or higher. The point at which traction becomes a problem is where you've got the right ratio. This presumes you don't run out of revs half way down the strip.
MaxPower
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Had 3.45 previously (stock VL diff). It has def made a difference to the performance and feels very responsive, the car labours less around town too, 4th gear at 60 or 70ks is now fine were as before it felt like it was always slipping against the convertor when going up hills (due to rpm being around 1500rpm with torque convertor locked). Fuel economy has suffered though, was around 400-430kms for 50L around town but looks like it will be closer to 350kms now. It could be that i have been driving it harder though, lokka is too much fun! 3.7 is probably about the perfect ratio for a mix of city and country driving, 3.9 or 4.1 if u dont care about the extra fuel use (2500rpm @ 100kph with 3.9s so country driving will suffer).
Zuffen: Krayn has 3.08 and wants to go to 3.7.
Zuffen: Krayn has 3.08 and wants to go to 3.7.
Mugshot
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has anyone considered dropping a ford 9" into their commodore. i know its very anti holden. but i always hear great thigns about these diffs.
Anthony
Anthony
MaxPower
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A 9" is very strong but will take a fair bit more HP to drive than a stock diff. The stock 28 spline borgwarner is strong enough for 500hp+ ATW if driven with some sort of respect.
Mugshot
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but if you have that sort of power you are guarenteed to wanna give it **** sometimes.
and if you turbo your car it seems that 500atw is not so hard to achieve.
Anthony
and if you turbo your car it seems that 500atw is not so hard to achieve.
Anthony
Peewee
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DAMN YOUR AUTO's
I sit on 3000rpm @ 100kph with 4.1s, but I'm dropping in a 3.7 so that should bring it down to 2700rpm.
But even at 3000rpm I still reckon I can get under 10L/100km on a pure country run.
Will know in a few weeks.
At the moment its about 17L/100km, but thats a lot of fanging around the streets, and fuckall freeway. Plus its running rich enough to see black smoke at idle.
Does anyone else agree that halfburnt ULT98 smells wrong? Like a mixture of melting plastic and burning paint.
MaxPower
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Mugshot said:
What i mean is more shock loading the diff ie. bashing it through the gears with a manual box. You can still have fun but just have to have some respect. For example a friend has a datto with enough grunt to turn the tyres in 4th gear when it comes on boost (in the dry) but still has the stock rear end.
If you are keen on a 9" though, speak to Veem Engineering as they sell conversions that just bolt in.
duggy_2001
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hey was just wondering if you still have all your info about putting the 1uzfe into a vl, plz email the info if possible
MaxPower
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Hi duggy, all the written info i have is in this thread. The first page has almost everything you need to know.
BLOWN EA
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hey max power who tuned you car my car it should be cranked over tommorow but am having some problems with wiring up the stepper motor on the computer have you got a wiring diagram or map on how you wired you car that you can foward to me thanks
MaxPower
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Was initially tunned by steve at SST (who is now at Chris Mills), since then though i have made heaps of changes.
What colour wires does your ISC have?? They are all different. Basically you need to setup the stepper to run as a bipolar stepper by ommiting the center taps (the 12v feed wires), look at the wiring diagrams for the original ISC and you will see what looks like 4 coils, wired in pairs. The Wolf has Coil A and Coil B with a hi and lo for each, wire up coil A hi and low to one pair of coils and Coil B hi and lo to the other. If the engine wont start or hold idle set the direction flag in software to reverse, the closed loop idle works really once all the software settings are tweaked.
What colour wires does your ISC have?? They are all different. Basically you need to setup the stepper to run as a bipolar stepper by ommiting the center taps (the 12v feed wires), look at the wiring diagrams for the original ISC and you will see what looks like 4 coils, wired in pairs. The Wolf has Coil A and Coil B with a hi and lo for each, wire up coil A hi and low to one pair of coils and Coil B hi and lo to the other. If the engine wont start or hold idle set the direction flag in software to reverse, the closed loop idle works really once all the software settings are tweaked.
BLOWN EA
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hey thanks max power steve is no longer at chris mills he has moved so i am still stuck with it i guess i will have to see to get it wired up some how have you got a map of how you car has been wired up so i can see what goes where
MaxPower
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there is another guy who tunes wolf's and is very good, has done a few 1UZs too...
BARRIE'S DYNO & COMPUTER TUNING CENTRE
230 Railway Pde Queens Park 6107 (08) 9350 5829
Follow the wiring in the back of one of the wolf manuals, shows how everything is wired. Its all pretty straight forward, the only thing to watch out for is the crank and cam trigger polarity - if they are reversed the timing will be unstable and will cause all sorts of misfire problems. If you still get some odd misfire or trigger error counts add a 22nF greencap (from your electronics store) across each sensor at the ECU end (as close as possible to the ECU). I spent some time with a digital CRO and found they cleaned the signal up nicely.
BARRIE'S DYNO & COMPUTER TUNING CENTRE
230 Railway Pde Queens Park 6107 (08) 9350 5829
Follow the wiring in the back of one of the wolf manuals, shows how everything is wired. Its all pretty straight forward, the only thing to watch out for is the crank and cam trigger polarity - if they are reversed the timing will be unstable and will cause all sorts of misfire problems. If you still get some odd misfire or trigger error counts add a 22nF greencap (from your electronics store) across each sensor at the ECU end (as close as possible to the ECU). I spent some time with a digital CRO and found they cleaned the signal up nicely.
