Is it possible to wire and ISC valve the wrong way

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

Jez England

New Member
Hi All,

I have a 1UZ in a WB ute.
When cold it has a very low idle (600rpm) and hunts a little bit.
When warm it idles very fast (1200) and occasionally seems to have a small miss/studder.
Temp sensor OK.
No engine codes in diagnostics.
So I am wondering if it possible for it to have wired incorrectly during the transplant and whether I can just reverse ISC1 - ISC4.
Thoughts
 
Update

I ran continuity tests between plug and ecu wires - all appear to be wired in correctly. So I reversed the order anyway at the ECU to see if it would make a difference. It made no difference to the cold idle. Didn't wait to see if it fast idle at operating temp.

I put the wiring back to the original but now I am stumped at what next.

Thoughts
 
is the M-REL output wired correctly?

IIRC, the ecu uses the MREL to keep itself on even after you turn ignition off to reset the IACV motor. So the next startup it causes fast idle and then slowly comes down to set RPM when at operating temp.
 
I believe so, Black-Orange wire from ECU E11-4 to Pin 86 on EFI Main Relay and I can hear a relay click several seconds after I turn off the ignition. When starting the engine has a very short period of fast idle and then comes back to a very low RPM, then as the engine warms up the idle goes up to a fast idle. It was like the ECU temp sensor was reversed, so I checked that and it is good. The IAC resistances across the solenoids are good.
 
I believe so, Black-Orange wire from ECU E11-4 to Pin 86 on EFI Main Relay and I can hear a relay click several seconds after I turn off the ignition. When starting the engine has a very short period of fast idle and then comes back to a very low RPM, then as the engine warms up the idle goes up to a fast idle. It was like the ECU temp sensor was reversed, so I checked that and it is good. The IAC resistances across the solenoids are good.
engine coolant temp sensor good?
Coolant bled properly, ie no air in the cooling system?

if the engine is missing or performing bad / hesitating specially when warm, have you checked and confirmed if there are no vacuum leaks, good ignition system and plugs.
 
Check the old sensor and replace it with a new one - Check it was with in spec before putting it in.

Ran the engine up to temp so I would have thought all the air was out of the system + plus it does the same behavior every time, idle come up as the temp increases runs about 95deg when operating.

I haven't found a vacuum leak. The engine runs well, but occasionally it sound likes mike it hesitates a bit like it didn't fire properly, but I don't have any codes come up to suggest the ignitor didn't fire.

I just ran the voltage on the OX sesnor and earth in the diangostics and it ranges between 0.1V and 0.8-0.9 so I think they are good as well.
 
I tried to reverse the ISC1 - ISC4 Pins in the ECU thinking they had been wired wrong in the transplant, but it didn't make a difference, so I put it back the way it was originally
 


Back
Top