easy hp mods

[JeffHarper]

All I know is on 93 RON my car runs like a bag of poo and on 98 RON it Soars with the eagles!

However it's only after a week does it really fly after changing over to a higher RON, which indicates my ECU is learning???

 

[Lexurious]

correct. If you pull the ecu fuse for a few minutes it will reset, and learn quickly if you go for a thrash afterward

 

[JeffHarper]

Now, look I do not want an argument on this one, ok guys.... but has anyone actually dynoed a V8 before and after a fuse reset.

Im know on the TT it really does work, but I'm buggered if I can tell any difference, and trust me, I cane the living daylights out of my car after a re-set and have nill to show for it.

I have however noticed something VERY interesting...... I tow a trailer, a big one.... with a big ride on mower on it..... like 500kg of stuff all up.

Now after a day of towing THAT I can assure you my car goes like a scalded cat for a while! It's not imagined I'm sure, it bags up the rear wheels and all sorts of things!

I think the ECU learns the extra weight and compensates for it.

Try a few bags of cement for a few days and find out!

 

[Nick M]

i'm amazed at how many people have just said that 'more octane doesn't equal more power". that statement couldn't be any more incorrect.

yeah that's kinda true, if you're running the used dishwater the good ol' US of A call 'premium'. the difference between your premium and the rest of the worlds is that USA's 'premium' is the same as our regular unleaded. and your 'regular' is illegal for sale in all countries but the USA.

it's a bit of a conspiracy theory, the less octane you have, the more fuel you need to travel the same distance. premium is more expensive, but after a tank full it works out cheaper per kilometre to run a higher octane. it's just one way to prop up the failing economy.

our 'premium' is 98 RON - and soon to be 101 with BPs new fuel. our 'regular' is 91 RON. Japan has a 'premium' of 108 RON.

more octane means a cleaner, more efficient burn. more efficient combustion means a more complete burn, which means more force exerted onto the piston, which means more power. simple as that.

try running your engine on 50 RON and watch the power drop - then tell me the octane number doesn't increase or decrease power.

it's sad that misinformed people are able to dish out advice on this forum.

Uhhh Not quite. Octane rating is how much heat and pressure is needed to ignite the mixture. Running 50 will cause a massive misfire/detonation. So naturally, running 87 will improve it. Running 106 octane in a car tuned for 91 will not gain power, as you are implying.

Conspiracy theory? Never heard that line before. Sounds like something the Hon-duh boys would say though. Diesel cetane rating is cetane. But the same principal. It will light with out any spark at all, just very high compressoin. It goes further on the same amount of fuel due to the heat energy released, and the induction system.

More octane does not equal a cleaner more efficent burn. It equals how much you need to light the mixture. You need a refund on your education. A car with certain cam timing and compression ratio that only needs 87 (Ron 91) not the same monkey boy, will not benifit from 93. You would need to alter the engine's cylinder pressure drastically to change the need.

Go away.

 

[Nick M]

Most oil additives do nothing for the car except sit in the oil pan and take up space. Oil is full of additives already. And none of them add any power on this car.

Resetting the computer on this car will not net any power. In fact all you are doing is clearing codes, if the car is old enough, and clearing short term fuel trim, which is changed every time you step on the accelerator pedal anyway.

 

[Nick M]

One other thing to consider, is I dont know what the Eurotrash countries like France sell. Their regular unleaded could be straight refined 87% octane. In the US premium means there is additives in it to clean the injection system. That will "improve" a poorly running car. Or maintain a good running one.

 

[racingbrett]

octane boostings only usefull if used on a modded motor, lots of ppl are lead into claims by the manufacturers of increased performance but in reality on a normall engine u will see little or more likely no gain from a booster. you could gain a little extra power if the booster was used in conjuction with changing the timing, but the advantage is because the booster (higher octane) helps combat the pinking effect that would be present with normal fuel n fettled timing. so in short octane boosters are only really usefull for modded moters where pinking is a concern and to use daily is expensive as i have found out with my high cr hillclimb race motor, an octane booster lets u take a modded n tuned engine slightly over the edge by helping stop the dreaded pinking.

As mentioned if ur after a temp boost of power for a relativly cheap initial cost NOS is probably the way forward Just watch the refill prices here in englands not all that cheap

 

[Peewee]

I think you mean 'pinging', not pinking

 

[racingbrett]

depends what u mean by pinging? i think its probably the same as pinking here

 

[Peewee]

I've never heard of the term pinking.

Pinging is detonation.
Sounds like someone shaking marbles in a tin can.
The ECU uses knock sensors to detect it, and retards the timing to counter-act it.

Same thing?

 

[racingbrett]

same as pinking then

 

[LEXUSV8NZ]

Pinging and Pinking are the same thing by a different name, just depends on where you are in the world/country/town and whjo your talking to

Logan

 

[redelman]

I was reading thru "easy hp mods", very interesting octane discussion, learned alot. I read DO NOT USE Bosch Platinum plugs of any kind! Got me worried, I plan to install +4 Platinums, rotors & caps next week, also, upgrade my plug & dist. wires to handle the spark. Bad idea? It's been a year since that do not use posting. Maybe +4 plugs are new & improved. Gonna talk to the manufacturer too!

 

[Peewee]

Wires and Leads and Caps are fine.

Their plugs are not so good, they tend to foul up quicker than other brands.

Stick with Denso or NGK's

 

[Toranamat69]

If those plus 4's are the ones I am thinking of with the 4 earth electrodes, I would be steering well clear of those. No better way to shroud your spark from the incoming aircharge. This is doing the exact opposite to what indexing your spark plugs achieves.

 

[zbenga]

those oil aditives are just teflon top ups. They use some sort of teflon to reduce friction. I won't use anyting in my engine except for Mobil1 5-30 oil

 

[redelman]

I returned the Bosch +4 plugs. Got NGK Platinums, Bosch Premium wires & fuel filter to be installed this Sunday. Last oil change, I used Gunk Oil Flush (5 min. @ idle), then new K & N filter, Valvoline Max life synthetic 5W-30 w/ 8 cyl. Engine Restore. 1994 SC400 w/ 179,000 mi. Before, the exhaust would "puff" like the timing was off alittle. Now, the engine is noticeably quieter & smoother w/ exhaust a constant low muffled growl.

 

[SCV8]

Not to go against those who absolutely know everything, but not all oil additives are equal, or are Teflon based; the stuff I have isn't sold at the car parts store, at least not in the form that I have. It is a boundary layer industrial lubricant.
I never would have used it myself, but a relative turned me on to it by dosing my motor, I was soon convinced otherwise. To be able and pour something, and have similar power gains(5%) compared to a set of headers is pretty "easy" in my book.
Gotta dyno my car here someday, just out of curiosity, quiet the naysayers.