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Hi Frank, From the sounds of it, you have an internal failure. If you can select reverse, then there is oil pressure to some extent, and the gear selector mechanism is working. Probably wouldn't hurt to check both though. Dip the oil to check the level and condition. Get under the car and...

Both engines have a unique bolt pattern, so it won't be a straight fit. You would need to purchase a 1UZ A340 bellhousing, flex plate, all fasteners and the torque converter to adapt the engine to your existing A340. As for what else, you've covered the main items... but engine conversions...

UPDATE: I decided to rebuild the diff with a Nismo GT LSD and 4.4 gears (up from 3.7) but was faced with a 2 month wait for new Stub Axles... so I picked up a cheap S15 diff. It uses a torsen centre and is amazing to drive. Hooks up when it needs to and has good manners in tight turns and...

Admin has the file shared in this thread https://www.lextreme.com/forums/threads/lexus-diagnostic-signals-chart-1uz-fe.18406/#post-149546 Regarding the resistor in the AC ECU, there is an important reason Toyota would put it there. If the line voltage was either 0v or 5v, the ECU would only...

Looking at the circuit, the ECU outputs 5V through a pull-up resistor, through a diode, then out to the AC ECU via wiring harness The AC ECU applies another diode to it, then connects to ground via a transistor. The pull-up resistor is there so that the ECU can measure a logical value. By doing...

AC Mag provides output ground to the ac clutch relay AC recieves a 5v input from the ac ecu when the ac is off, that pulls to ground when the ac switches on.

ECU (89661-24390) Igniters (2 x 89621-12050) (2x 89621-12010) Fuel Pump ECU (89570-24010) Injectors x8 - Lilac (23250-50010) Injectors x8 - Dark Green (23250-50028) Ignition Leads - 2 full sets in good condition Air Flow Meter (22204-42010) Air Flow Meter (22204-42011) O2 Sensors assorted Knock...

If you hold the throttle open a little, will it start and run?

The repair manual can be prone to dramatics sometimes. If the ECU cannot determine the cause of the fault, it blames itself. I have seen plenty of ECU's replaced unnecessarily when techs only follow the DTC guide. Start by removing the air flow meter connector and inspecting the terminals. Look...

https://www.nzefi.com/product/toyota-oem-denso-high-tag-style-injector-connector/

It could be a bad plug... it could be anything at this stage. Don't worry about the sensors for now (especially if you've already replaced them) Focus on the wiring. Disconnect the sensors and the ECU - test the wiring between them

Given the age of the car, and that you've recently disturbed all the wiring and connectors, it sounds like you have a poor connection. Code12 will appear if the NE, G1 or G2 sensors are faulty, or if there is an open or short circuit in their wiring. Given you've just replaced them, I would...

Code13 with log when the crank signal drops out (even momentarily) or when the logical pulse count from NE, G1/G2 is out. When you clear the code, does it reappear immediately? What has happened with the vehicle in the immediate days before this fault occurred? How long ago did you have the...

Sounds like you've almost got it sorted out - good stuff

Does the tailpipe smell fuelly? Codes 25/26 both use 2-trip detection logic, meaning that the ECU needs to see the fault occur twice over two consecutive "trips" (turning the ignition key on then off is considered 1 trip) In theory, you should be able to disconnect the battery (to clear the...

Sorry I don't know what codes 11 and 16 are on the 1995 model. When it starts up without brake cleaner, do you need to open the throttle at all... or does it help?

Just make sure the igniter housings are earthed properly first! It doesn't show in the wiring diagram, but the internal igniter circuit finds earth through the aluminium case.

All good - CEL should be solid with the ignition switched on and engine not running Can you confirm you are following the diagnostic test processes as follows... Diagnosis Inspection (Test Mode) Battery must be +11V or more, throttle valve closed, trans in neutral, AC switched off Turn...

Did the check engine light go out? Or, is it flashing and, if so, what code(s) is it giving you? How are you confirming it has no spark?

Fix one problem, only to find another. Normally a fast flashing CEL means the ECU is in test mode... do you still have the jumper pins connected to the diagnostic connector? Does the engine start now? Someone else may be able to chime in here, but I've never checked cam timing from the TDC...