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No, its just that when I was replacing my O2 sensors, about a year ago, I had the old sensors removed and drove like that for about 30 minutes until the CEL was triggered. I thought it was suposed to be triggered right away if O2 sensors aren't connected.

Can someone confirm whether it's normal or not for the ECU not to throw a CEL right after the primary O2 sensors are disconnected? My ECU throws the CEL about half hour after the O2s are disconnected. The car is a 1994 LS400, first gen, OBDI

Well, with RWD I wouldn't want anymore than 350, unless its a really heavy car, then maybe 400, with torque numbers in the same range as HP. And it must have the brakes and tires to match the power. With AWD I guess 400, maybe 450. More than that is just useless.

So, I'm still "In Pursuit of Solution" to my problem, and I was browsing club lexus SC forums from the beginning, and I found this post in a thread about a problem similar to mine: And then this post in a SAFC-II discussion thread: Seeing that SC300T is basically having describing my...

With 17K you can get 01-02 GS430, add some headers, and you will have a lot more than 300hp, more like 340. You can add supra gears and Lextreme high stall converter, but then I don't know if you will want that much power without AWD.

Have you considered the 2jzge motor? It has comparable power output as the 1uz (225hp/225lb vs 250hp/260lb), and its aftermarket base is second to none. Of course out of the box, the 3jz will have a lot more power, but its going to cost you a pretty penny.

To solve the low idle problems, try the following: 1) Remove and clean the throttle body. With 200k you probably have 2-3 milimeters of carbon buildup on it. 2) Bypass power steering air valve.

Soarer, before it evolved into SC, was basically a coupe version of the Cressida.

When the engine is cold the idle is suposed to be high, even higher than 1K. But you should never ever, under any circumstances run the engine without coolant - it will overheat and cease in less than a minute.

Why not share with us what the problem was, so if anyone else runs in the same problem they can fix it?

Lex, wanna test it with my old MAF?

Holy crap, if you have exaust coming out of your intake, then your valve timing is way off. The first time around I installed my timing belt, I screwed up the drivers side CAM pulley by around 5-10 teeth, and the engine wouldn't start, and backfired smoke through the intake. Thanks God the 1UZ...

I dont see how improper timing could cause any electrical burning smell. Also, if they are almost dead on, off by maybe a 1/16" or so, then I dont think you should worry about that, its probably just caused by some play in the belt itself. Either way your ECU should be able to compensate for...

That test actually only tests the air temperature sensor within the MAF. You can cut these two wires off and cross them with various resistors to trick the ECU about the air temperature. Nowever, there's a separate frequency that the MAF generates which is telling the ECU the airflow volume.

So I've been battling the pinging and poor performance issue for a while on my first gen LS400. I've done a number of things to try and resolve this issue, replacing numerous parts, all to no avail. One of the things that I've replaced recently is the MAF sensor, and it still did not resolve the...

Well, I had mine replaced, and it didnt change a thing :(

Coolant sensor is pretty cheap brand new, maybe $25-50 USD, and it's very easy to replace.

Holy crap.... Dude, this is just sick, I envy your ride :D Which supercharger is that?

Hows your car running now? Any difference with the new MAF?

That I'm not sure about. Since there aluminum body diameter is smaller, I guess the sensor might be smaller too?