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Amazing! A knocking starter problem.. Ill have to remember this one.

Or you could just quit guessing and get your ass under the car to check all the conrod and main bearings. IDK

What is the vapor trap.. Where is the vapor trap.. How does the vapor trap work?

I agree with jbrady. Get the local engine. Under 100k you are surely good to go. Engine should suck and f**k me for 1000.

Can Not Wait! :scared1:

I highly doubt that is normal. I have never seen this while remote starting my car. Im not real experienced w. electrical issue but it sounds like a ground related concern or a faulty relay.

No good had the same **** happen to me.. rod knock on 5th conrod. chewed up the bearing and f****d up the whole engine. Just get a new engine.. I find mine cheap on craigslist.org or the automotive recycler websites around the midwest where I live. Hope you work something out. :sgrin: Here...

Iowa City, Iowa. I dare you to use the ethanol!

Progress Matt hows it going? Did you find anything? Sounds like the starting is just dying if everything else runs fine when its driving:burnout:

It always gets better ;D... sounds like your front crankshaft seal is leaking. Its an easy fix.....once you get to it haha

Tranny flush with Toyota Type IV and cleanout of screen solved all problems associated with symptoms

I figure from other vague diagrams that the main bearing caps have to go in so that the notches on the bearings are touching eachother. Moreover I figure the only tightening pattern for the main cap is to tighten the nuts then the bolts and thats all there is to it. And hell no you cant just...

Can one plug and play by dropping a 1995-1997 1uz-fe into a 1991 frame and with the original 1991 wiring setup?

Ok then heres another one. How is the direction of the main caps facing for reassembly? bottom of the number facing towards the front of the engine or bottom of the number facing the rear of the engine? One way the notches on the bearings/cap are on opposite sides of eachother. The other way the...

:firedevil: How is the pattern when tightening/torquing the main crankshaft caps?other than tightening the nut before the bolt.

Another one bites Turns out bearings are in fact factory. The engine is factory original. I will just buy a new engine again when warm weather comes. 3rds a charm.:trink26: After close inspection I found the 4th main bearing notches broke and spun. The 3rd main bearing is just as worn if not...

cribbj- I used high temp red sealant when I reassembled the pans, I think this is okay. The thrust on the engine should be the no different I didnt change the converter,etc. Also I did not detect any oil burning at all. All good suggestions I did not consider. jbrady- I bought this longblock out...

Good thinking cribbj I absolutely didnt use any old parts from the original engine I used all new parts and kept it clean.:wtf:

Had engine problems last year yes. Did take a short cut yes. Once that failed I took your advice and bought a new long block with less than 50,000 miles on it and this is the engine that I have questions about. I cant believe I have two faulty engines in a row! My first LS drove like a dream...

Finally decided to do some surgery on my engine today to find the knock noise. Checked all the rod bearings and they were perfect. started in on the main bearings @ the 4th main and the bearings were completed spun where the notch had broken and was allowed to spin freely. I moved on to all...