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Sounds like you've almost got it sorted out - good stuff

Does the tailpipe smell fuelly? Codes 25/26 both use 2-trip detection logic, meaning that the ECU needs to see the fault occur twice over two consecutive "trips" (turning the ignition key on then off is considered 1 trip) In theory, you should be able to disconnect the battery (to clear the...

Sorry I don't know what codes 11 and 16 are on the 1995 model. When it starts up without brake cleaner, do you need to open the throttle at all... or does it help?

Just make sure the igniter housings are earthed properly first! It doesn't show in the wiring diagram, but the internal igniter circuit finds earth through the aluminium case.

All good - CEL should be solid with the ignition switched on and engine not running Can you confirm you are following the diagnostic test processes as follows... Diagnosis Inspection (Test Mode) Battery must be +11V or more, throttle valve closed, trans in neutral, AC switched off Turn...

Did the check engine light go out? Or, is it flashing and, if so, what code(s) is it giving you? How are you confirming it has no spark?

Fix one problem, only to find another. Normally a fast flashing CEL means the ECU is in test mode... do you still have the jumper pins connected to the diagnostic connector? Does the engine start now? Someone else may be able to chime in here, but I've never checked cam timing from the TDC...

DTC 13 is caused by the crank sensor cutting out while the engine is running, or logical errors in the pulse count the ECU is receiving from crank and cam sensors. If you have replaced the sensors, it likely to be a poor connection (open or short circuit) in the wiring between sensors and ECU...

If the CEL isn't lighting up, then the ECU isn't switching on... or is malfunctioning. Start with the basics in order - battery - fuse - ECU - earth Ensure you have +B constant (BATT terminal) Ensure you have +12V with the ignition switch turned on (IGSW terminal, +B and +B1) Check all the ECU...

CD009 should easily cope with the power and torque - but I'm an auto guy. Once the A340 shits itself I will be looking at an 8HP75

If you are talking about low-end torque, without forced induction, the best way to increase torque is to increase capacity. Cams can help, provided you get the right grind to suit your application. UZ's already have long intake runners that help improve intake inertia and improve cylinder...

If you are tuning it yourself, this is where a better ECU helps. I am no tuner, but it was relatively easy to setup a base map and get the engine started. Based on the VE calculations, the software gave me safe fuel mixtures and conservative timing. Every time i drove it, the closed loop self...

Stock injectors are only good enough for around 300hp on low boost. There are several different types of injectors you can swap in, and you can read all about them here. You will need an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator that references boost, so that your fuel pressure doesn't drop. A Walbro...

The stock ECU is fine for stock applications but once you start modifying, you will reach its limits fairly quickly. Having the engine tuned correctly is the most critical part of any build - it doesn't matter how strong you build the internals, if it runs lean or the timing isn't right, it...

The images you posted shows the procedures for a (1) puse waveform test for the IAC and (2) a basic ECU voltage test, both with the wiring harness installed - they are not continuity tests. Symbols (Terminal No.) refers to the two terminals (connector - pin), between which you conduct the test...

If you feel like spending even more money, Rennsport have this beast here These look pretty close to an IDF pattern

1UZTech has a high rise 4-barrel manifold here For the cost though, you must REALLY want to participate in this race!

If you have spark, compression, and the timing is correct, that only leaves fuel. You post mentions that you have pressure - but how much? (measure with a gauge) Are the injectors wired correctly? (check they all have 12v with IGN on one pin, and check continuity on the other back to the ECU)...

There are several different PCDs - I ran into this issue when I bought a billet adapter for the Toyota 3-bolt to a Hardy Spicer 4-bolt configuration, and they sent me the wrong one. Making one yourself properly is complex - I know that the professionally made adapters are laser cut, or CNC...

Some reflections on the build after a month and a bit of driving: It breaks axles. The standard outer BMW CV joints were never designed to take this amount of power and I'm onto my second set now. Billet stubs with Porsche CVs are the bulletproof option for more than $5k, whereas cheap...