Search results

Let us know what the problem was as it may help someone else along the way.

The cam followers are best put back in the same location/hole as there may be matching wear patterns on the cam and follower. Don't worry if they don't go back in the same location/hole. What you will need to do is collect the shims and set the valve gaps on each valve. You will most likely...

I've never had a CAD drawing of the bolt pattern but I've built two adaptor. One for a Range Rover LT77 gearbox and one for a Nissan Patrol 5 speed. Both have been successful, one with over 1,000hp. Give it a go, nothing to loose.

Normally a misfire and 4 cylinders affected is electrical. I'd be checking each cylinder to work out which ones are bad. That will point to one or the other distributors. From there you have the appropriate distributors coil and igniter to check. I once had two cylinders down and they were...

I'd swap trhe igniter plugs over and see if the fault swapped distributor caps. That will tell you if they are working. If they are the problem is between them and the coils or after the coils. If the problem swaps distributors you could have a dead igniter of a wiring issue back to the ECU.

If the engine has sat and the ECU has been without power it will take 15-20 mins for the ECU to learn what the motor wants. If you can give it a drive, it will (should) improve.

Search through the forced induction section of this Forum. There are heaps of build Threads that should answer everything you could need or want to know.

I can't help with ITB's in the UK but also can['t suggest any exhaust manifolds without knowing what the engine is in. In Australia you can get headers for the SC400/Soarer that are pretty good but I don't know of any off the shelf headers for any other vehicle or combo. Let us know what it's...

From memory 38psi is stock 1UZ fuel pressure, so it is overfuelling a little. The IAC I would plumb pre turbo. The AFM/MAF I would have in front of the turbo. I would also look hard at the FPR and ensure it's supplying the required fuel pressure as revs increase, I'm not a fan of rising rate...

Safe as houses. Early 1UZ will handle 9psi without any issues.

Kenny, Welcome. One thing the 1UZ isn't good at is responding to upgrades. Unless you want to spend heaps on forced induction just enjoy the car as it was designed. A gentleman's cruiser.

I'd just fit a belt, tensioner and waterpump. You can usually buy it all as a kit.

For $10.00 worth of steel I'd throw a strut brace at it and rest a little easier.

Do you plan on fitting a front strut brace. The "wings" look like they could flex or even fold up if worked hard. Some more gusseting of the "wings" would make me happier.

The cars nice but the Border Collie is better. Sorry. Keep us posted on progress as there are plenty of interested people.

A vacuum leak will do it every time. Good effort. Now hang around and help others:-)

Gotta be happy with that outcome.

Our experience in Australia is that LPG vehicles have cleaner (internally) engines and last better than their petrol versions. Almost all our Taxis (FORD and GM) were LPG from the factory and those things went forever. If I was looking at that engine I would grab it, if the price is right...

With the cost of properly rebuilding a 1UZ I wouldn't expect to find any for sale. Best option is to rebuild what you have or buy a sad one and rebuild it. Not overly complex to rebuild but there is a lot of detailed work needed and machining that adds up real fast.

I think you need to identify where the spot of oil came from. is it a leak or a gapping hole in the side of the engine? With the starter clicking with a fully charged battery it could be a few issues but I'd lean toward a locked engine as the oil light came on before it stopped and it may had...