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Yep, thats the one I found. Toyota do it to stop people from coming into the dealership saying the temp is going past half way (ie, people think its getting hot). Toyota obviously decided that 100degC is still in the acceptable region for that motor (I'm pretty sure all gauges are slightly...

The Jaycar unit can only double or halve the incoming signal.

The stock tacho's aren't highly accurate over the whole range, so I wouldn't worry about it being 100% correct. Either way, if you get the Jaycar one set it to 50% increase and it should be right. The are pretty on rapid changes though. I've got the MkI speedo corrector on my car (as a...

Use a paint scraper and a light hammering to get it off. Then just stick it back on with either double sided tape or gasket goo.

Have a read up on how to make the temperature gauge more accurate. From the factory Toyota gauges don't start to move past halfway until at least 99degC, and even then some models (engine specific) don't reach red until about 110degC. I read up on a quick mod someone did that makes the...

I normally use a coating of high temp paint, and then a coating of paint of my colour choice. Not sure if it makes any difference having the high temp underneath, but it seems to have worked so far.

I like the orange. Looks very Lambo. Personally I prefer paint to powercoat, probably because its cheaper and you do it yourself. Which means when it flakes off/chips you really don't care that much.

Not that I'm aware of.

With extractors you really either need to use a heat shield, or get them ceramic coated. They give off a LOT more heat than the standard manifolds.

Any forward facing scoop will reduce the amount of air cooling the radiator, and inturn can increase coolant temps (if your radiator is on the limit). With a 1UZ in there the stock cooling system will probably be on the limit, so a more efficient radiator will probably be required. A...

Yes, SC400 sump and SC400 mounts.

I believe Champion make aftermarket coils for these, not sure if anyone else does yet though.

Swap the ignitors over first, to make sure one of the ignitors hasn't failed. Then if both ignitors are good, swap the coils over. If both coils are good, try the coil leads. It could also be one of the dizzy caps or rotors, but these are less likely than the above. Process of...

I've got a spare Celsior ECU with 3 of the 4 plugs (and about a foot of wiring), but I don't have the 4th plug. You are welcome to borrow it. Does your engine look factory? Is an AFM installed?

For fake engineering purposes ?

I managed to get an early 1UZ ISCV and test it. It did the in/out thing like I remembered. Then I tested the one I had put on the car (presumably late model) and nothing happened. Either it was cactus (unlikely) or it works completely different. Either way, installed the older model...

The problem with just changing the outer gear is that the inner gear has a finite number of outer gears it can correctly mesh with. The 10-33 will most likely have an inner gear that will be stamped with (31-33), so you are limited to a 10-31 before you run the chance of eventually stripping...

You know the wiring harness and plug are different for all ecu's ?

Looking for an early ISCV. I think I have a late model ISCV on my motor (3/4" inlet, can't be removed from housing/bracket), and I'm not sure if the ecu can control it properly (I'm having idling issues). LMK. Or alternatively if someone could test an early ISCV like this...

Whats wrong with the LS400 ecu ?