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Sorry haven't been on here for a while. I haven't bothered making any more sumps due to lack of interest. I see on here that people asked for them in the past but when they became available they mostly all disappeared when askled to put their money where there mouth was. I imagine that is also...

I have had one in my 1UZ powered 37 Chev for about 6 years now. TCU and ECU no problems

As I posted earlier. That is not the ideal place to take measurements from as being the surface that the head bolt is torqued down it could be slightly compressed and also the machining tolerance on a spotface would be greater than the cam journal tolerance. I would take all the measurements...

Haha 15 years ago I had never heard of a 1uz lol

G'day Rod, did yours not have the dipstick?

If it doesn't run full length then you are only measuring the lower pan not the complete sump. The rest of the sump is between the lower pan and the base of the block

I have never seen a sump that is only 75mm deep unless it's a dry sump which wouldn't be factory. Is the part you are measuring tin or aluminium and does it run full length of the block or only part of the way?? Put a picture up, i'm sure others would also be interested in seeing this setup

Are you measuring from the actual bottom of the block or the bottom of the first part of the sump???

Not sure of the actual grade but it machines up like 5083 or 6061 when it's heat treated

75mm ?? that would only be the alumium piece wouldn't it?? I have modified the new ones to 175mm but I know that different people want different things.

Well this has dragged out longer than anticipated but finally have the sumps sorted out. They are now 25mm shallower than before more material on the flange face and provisions for a baffle if required. The trans pans I had clearance issues with and have to modify the patterns so i'm not putting...

Cast Aluminium

They are cast alloy then heat treated. 175mm from the base of the block to the bottom of the pan, You can gain about 10 or 12mm by machining off the fins or alternatively cut a slice out and re-weld

I also have the rocker cover inserts available and will have trans pans soon.

Well they have been a long time coming but finally have them sorted. I have one left at this price then will have more as soon as they come back from the foundry but they will be $850 AU plus shipping. They will also have the oil pickup and all mounting bolts supplied...

Jags are a simple unit. Better than the B&M crap.

There are a few ways of doing it. You could use the original donut on the front shaft if you want but that will have to go to a centre bearing and uni or cv joint behind it with a uni on the diff. The donuts were for independent rear so diff didn't move. Unlike the Hi ace. In my 37 I modified...

I recently bought a kit from these guys. Fast service and very comprehensive kit with Gates belt. Good price and free postage. http://stores.ebay.com.au/Allied-Bearings-Tools?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

Just have a fully loaded esky Rod. The rest will be fine:p:p

How long was it sitting before you ran it. Could be sticky solenoids. Have you checked if they are getting power