Recent content by lill daddy

CEL = Check engine light :) You can bridge two terminals in the diagnostic port and get the cel to flash a code for you... With ignition off bridge E1 and TE1 with a paper clip...turn ignition to acc (lights on dash but not started) check engine light will flash slow and fast... count the number...

Could also be the dreaded leaking cap in the ecu.....

Was it running fine beforehand? Or a conversion you are trying to get running properly? I would say AFM (air flow meter) or TPS (throttle position sensor) Or I've seen a 1uz where the pipe from the ISCV to the intake had split and that caused the same sort of problem... Have you got a CEL on?

I had the exact same issue and it ended up being the tps... http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/tps.html I used this link to reinstall and worked a treat :)

Yup... sorry brain fart moment... Mine would take 2-3 attempts to fire, then would run rough for maybe 10 sec then come right... I just threw a second hand one at it as I didnt like the price of a new one Haha

Is yours the older gen 1uz? If so then it runs the cold start injector and there is a thermo switch for it in the water bridge of the head...mine went bad and would take a few goes to get her fired when cold... replaced the sensor and haven't looked back... Its #3 in the pic...

Do the rpm's "hang" when you are driving too? do you find when coming up to a stop sign its still trying to push because of the extra rpm? I only ask as my conversion was doing this (and like yours would refire and be fine sometimes) but it turned out to be a sticky throttle body... gave it a...

I'm not sure of the part numbers but I have run 2 different 40 40 40 ecu's on my uz... The only difference is for the auto trans one of the ecu's (the larger one) throws a code for trans temp so the od light would flash after awhile... so if you are running a manual trans any 40 40 40 ecu should...

So it turns out the "refurbed" ecu is toast... changed for another one it its sorted :)

A friend of mine (electrical engineer) Says he can test my crank sensor so at least I can rule it out if it tests up ok... I have also got my hands on a good cam sensor so will try swapping those out if its not the crank sensor... and then I guess I'm back to the ecu...

They put paint seals on the ecu screws and its under warranty so not to keen to pop it open... I have checked all the earths etc I am leaning towards a CAS after reading a thread about the exact same symptoms I have... Thanks George!

Hey guys I'm after some help (again) Was driving into town the other day then all of a sudden the old girl lost a whole heap of power the cel came on then 5 seconds later was fine... 2 more minutes later same thing... then came right again...2 more minutes later happened again and stayed that...

No no the sensor is toast... like in two pieces toast :( But its been doing the rough cold start for quite some time so would like to "test" the injector to make sure its not gummed up :)

Yip! I'm on the hunt for one now.... On another note is there a way to "test" the cold start injector? Can I give it a direct feed to see if I can hear it clicking??? Bare in mind my UZ is in a hiace van so there is f'all room... Cheers

So have worked out its a resistance value the ecu sees to trigger the cold start injector... 7k ohms.... and it is my switch thats poked... I really dont like the look of the price for a oem one :(