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Not sure if this helps or not but Doug68 created plans for an adaptor plate which has the relative locations of the bolt holes. http://guerillamotive.com/?page_id=183

I take it you've seen this https://www.lextreme.com/wiring-the-toyota-crown-1uz-fe/ Also

Oh and this is also why I need to alter the front water bridge in the first place, it hits on the bulkhead...

That they are. If they're RWD with a drive shaft. Mine isn't. It's a mid-engine RWD using an Audi 01E transaxle in a GT40 replica. The only trouble with the 01E is that the output shafts are very low so to prevent having to cut the bulkhead (the cams pulleys hit otherwise) the engine is nose...

I think my engine is too nose down for it to work. Too much risk of an air/steam pocket and by the time I adapt something to allow it to vent I may as well just run the water bridge anyway. I think if you were to block the bridge and have it nose up it would be fine. It has made me think...

I have. As I said previously "The rear waterblock sees no flow apart from to the heater and throttle body. It's there to balance the two banks and for the heater. " It's clearly shown in the diagram as being flow arrows both ways into the rear water bridge as different to one-way into...

But that's just it, the flow goes from the radiator, past the thermostat (we'll pretend the engine is hot ignore it being closed) into the water pump, into the bottom of the block, up the block, into the *front* water bridge and then to the radiator. The rear waterblock sees no flow apart from...

In my build I have to modify the front waterbridge but I've just seen this car http://www.ebay.com/itm/221496812641 and he's blocked off the rear waterbridge..... which got me thinking. Do I need a rear waterbridge? I'm already losing the heater and manifold heating but my only concern...

Not mine, no connection (and with <1h to go probably finished before anyone else reads this) but saw on the SLC forum this 1UZ-FE powered RCR SL-C for sale on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/221496812641 That's a nice twin-turbo 1UZ-FE setup!

I got a set of the OBX ITB's, there is lots of home fabrication! Excuse the terrible photo.

I'm doing nearly the same setup, only difference is I'm going with ITB's (although using the original injectors). Not as far through as you though :( If you wouldn't mind, when you get to that stage could I have a copy of your base map?

Bit of a late response but have you got a flywheel made up yet? I'm putting a 1UZ-FE in front of a Audi 01E, basically using the design from http://guerillamotive.com/wordpress/?page_id=183 which uses the same idea flywheel. Indeed I'm not sure if it's close enough that you can use the same...

I have er partly. I'm fitting a 1UZ-FE into a GT40 and the waterbridge out and thermostat interfere with the rear bulkhead. So my plans are to make adapters for the ends of the waterbridge where they bolt to the heads and run conventional silicone hose to a 'T'. Then remove the thermostat and...

Reading the Wiki article it won't work. See the maximum pressure section.

Oh yes. The 30 degree angle (IIRC) to the mounting bolts and the cut outs for the injectors make it very tricky to match/machine.

Seem so, although as per my PM I haven't had the flywheel/clutch made up and there is a bit of a question on that. Some pictures:

What do you want to know? I've made up one from his plans.

Sorry about the poor modelling but very very quickly modelled some TB's to show what I mean.

They're not substantially different, originally I was going to mount them exactly as they are on the GSXR1000 (and hayabusa). Although a number of people just use a bit of silicone hose clamped on it's not the neatest. Then while googling I came across someone else using GSXR1000 TB's who...

Well, no answer from Autronic. So I did them myself. As per my previous post, this was what I had in mind, although I'm using GSXR1000K2 rather than hayabusa so 42mm butterflies. The adapters would then just be sealed to the plate with O-rings.