What AUTO to use?? Celsior 1UZ into Hilux.

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

yso81g

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Shellharbour
Hi, i have a 93 x-cab hilux 4wd, with a SAS, runnin 35's.` Its currently manual, but after months & months i've decided to go auto. I've purchased a Celsior front cut having all intensions of probably using the 4spd auto that comes with the motor, & bolting on the V6 4Runner chain driven transfer case. But before any final decisions are made & the first steps are taken, I'd like to have a few more options & make a decision from there. The 2UZ 100 series 5spd auto i thought may of been. Having the same bolt pattern, but unfortunately one too many solenoids being the first problem of maybe many.

I'm lookin for reliabilty, good fuel economy & strong capability of towing.

Open to previous experiences & ideas.

What is the best auto transmission to use?

Cheers!
 
personally i would have gone manual will feel like its got more power than the auto
but anyway

u need to get an auto with the same solenoid plug as the old auto
u can prob mix n match but ive never bothered to go that way cause i tell customer
if it doesnt work u pay double to fix it again
y do u want an auto which can handle big power
the 1uz aint that grunty anyway so in std form i doubt u will blow the auto up
with normal driving

the 100 series boxes are way way to advanced for the good old 1uz ecu
 
personally i would have gone manual will feel like its got more power than the auto
but anyway

u need to get an auto with the same solenoid plug as the old auto
u can prob mix n match but ive never bothered to go that way cause i tell customer
if it doesnt work u pay double to fix it again
y do u want an auto which can handle big power
the 1uz aint that grunty anyway so in std form i doubt u will blow the auto up
with normal driving

the 100 series boxes are way way to advanced for the good old 1uz ecu


Bullsh!t...Sorry I sneezed

Read this

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22262

And there is a lot more info contained there in that site
 
He is harmless don't suspend him
He is just pointing out that I don't have any
Positive input these days
I should just leave it to all the experts out there
 
Jim,

You've contributed a lot of good advice and helped a lot of people over the years.

Hang around plenty of people need you're advice on wiring their cars.
 
unfortunately theres afew guys doing it these days
and when there is problems they then turn to me
im getting more n more emails n calls to fix others fkups
for free so i just tell em bring the car in to my shop
99% of the time they cant bring to shop so i say ok sorry but i have to go and stop replying to their email

and we have seen some of these guys buy looms from me or my friend
and then they copy and sell it themselves for a bit cheaper price

thats y i dont help anymore
afew guys cut me on price but when there is probs they dont know how to diagnose

i dont have time for timewasters and wankers anymore
i might sound rude on phone or on half the forums heheeh
but when it comes to a job that i have done very very rarely have i not had it solved
people dont realise u pay abit extra for that

so to anyone reading this dont be shocked when i tell u to pee off
if u want help on solving a problem if someone else has done the wiring

this year im clamping down on this big time
everyone has to bring car to shop

and there is 5 or so workshops i give prices for stuff and never get a job
but its ok for them to charge a fking shitload for doing there fab work
well if i also dont answer the phone and if your ring for the third time
means i know your number and im to busy to take your call because i know
whatever i quote u will be way to much

everyone is getting tight these days with money which brings out the dodgey wiring guys
and basically i dont have time to fix other fk ups

we recently figured out how to run an ls1 ecu on a ford 5lt and a holden 5lt
using a stock hall effect dizzy with 8 pulses with some monor mods to it
then trick the ecu to run a single coil
so means u dont need the fancy ls1 reluctor or the 8 xoils
which means much less setup time
i know it means single coil and 8 leads but in the end u prob only gain a little bit

so we have really clamped down on what info we hand out now
theres some big name businesses we have the hsits with these days
most things we do is labour and abit of parts so u bust your ass and they want
things dirt cheap so they make a shitload on it so we just dont bother with them anymore
we know who they r and either hate getting calls of them or call them back when we r quiet
which is not often heheheheheeh

anyway ive had my rant bought how crap the customers r getting

im not sure what part i said might have been bull sheit
maybe the part of not blowing the std auto

i know exactly hwo the 100 series boxes work as ive wired about 15 of them and have all the info on them from toyota and std 1uz auto wont drive them
and ive driven about 100 1uzs and i know manual is better

anyway no tears were lost
anyway better get back to wiring
got an ls1 in a rodeo to finish off and a wrx turbo motor into a brumby
 
Apologies for biting Jim and I have the same problems with both trade and retail customers "My mate said this...Where does he work? Hungry Jacks (BK for the rest of the world) F-off!" or trade "This is too hard to do... No it isn't, send it over" And they do without question... Even pay the bill without question, on time is the shocking part (well they don't get it back until they do pay).

I don't make up looms for people as I'm not an auto sparky but an Automotive engineer. I wire up matching pin-outs for the simple reason that you hit the key and it goes plus further down the track if it throws a code diagnosis is simply done. The 1UZs auto is used unless the client wants manual and aside from the one that had a stuffed auto on the back of it I've never had a problem. The only problem was for the supplier finding the right box to replace it with
 


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