truck swaps - how did you do cooling? WANT PIcS

[SuperRunner]

I need to figure out the best way to do cooling and how far back the engine needs to go.

I would like to be able to use existing tranny mount location, but if needed, it could be moved back.

I would like to know what radiator you used, what fan/s and what modifcations where needed to the radiator support to get your system to work.

To me, this is the hardest part of any swap.

 

[clintnz]

If you're using it off road or in traffic you want to run the std belt driven viscous fan. Cheap electric fans won't do the job.

You've got a 4 runner right? Most of the conversions I've seen leave the trans in place & cut out & move forward a section of the x-member above the radiator. This gives enough room to shift the std radiator forward & fit a proper fan.

Cheers
Clint

 

[Mattmannz]

I haven't seen a Hilux/Surf 4wd with the viscous fan yet. All the ones I have see have the trans slightly further forward, about an inch or so and electric fans.

As Clint say's the factory fan setup is hard to beat.

I am running twin 10in fans on a large thick aftermarket radiator and it's not quite enough in the sand and mud.

The key to good cooling is to have the fan running as a puller and have a good shroud to maximise the air flow. If you have to have the fans in the front you can't run a shroud and they aren't quite as efficient as pushers.

Matt.

 

[Clown Boy]

I have a very large PWR alloy radiator and PWR alloy transmission cooler.

Rear facing bonnet scoop

After market digital temp guage

Twin 9" Thermos - because they were handy

Big holes cut in my bullbar (which will be beautied up in the next couple of weeks so it looks good)

All up, I am fine on road but offroad it is just not quite there. In a 6 hour stint doing some not too hard bush work I overheated to 108-110 about 3-4 times. Each time I stopped at that temp because I was unwilling to see what happens if it gets hotter - but it cooled down to 99 in under 15 minutes.

I am now putting on an Ice 26" thermo and making some skirts to help air flow. I am close enough now that I expect that to finish my cooling system.

 

[Mattmannz]

You mean a 16in fan? Any flow figures?

My next mod is likely to be a 16in fan with shroud and a rear facing scoop off a Legacy.

Matt.

 

[Clown Boy]

Yeah, 16" - sorry.

It would look like a plane with a 26" fan.

Specs state 2800 CFM

 

[Clown Boy]

I used a fibreglass scoop modelled off the Venom cobras.

Pics to follow in about 5 minutes

 

[Clown Boy]

The top of my radiator, shows how thick and wide it is. The bottom is level with the bottom of my front chassis cross member. The width goes under that lip at the front of my engine bay.




With the trans cooler mounted in front if the radiator, I am modifying the front body cross member to fit the fan in.

My scoop:


You can see here the holes I cut in the new bullbar. It is being modified at present, cutting things off and modifying mounts, etc. In this pic I had cut the holes for air flow and was testing the difference to cooling.

 

[Mattmannz]

Nice looking truck.

Do you think the scoop made any difference to temps?

I have also thought about running a power steering cooler as I have boiled the fluid a couple of times.

Matt.

 

[Clown Boy]

Thanks for the compliment.

I think that with these conversions, every little bit helps. I put the scoop on while doing the conversion so I have no before or after temp info but I believe it helped as part of my overall plan for cooling.

The article at this location (http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_2159/article.html) shows some really good information on air pressures, air flows, etc, for planning things like vents, scoops, etc. It is part 1 of 3 articles on the subject on that website.

If I had seen it first I might have gone with vents more forward on the bonnet but still consider this an option if need be.

On your power steering cooler - every bit helps so I would recommend throwing one on - but wont myself unless I find I have to.

 

[Mattmannz]

Cheers - useful link.

I will be interested to see how you find the 16in fan swap. I am currently running two AC 10in fans.

I calculated the surface area of the two setups and the 16in has significantly more. I am also going to shroud the fan onto the radiator face to prevent side leakage of air around the radiator.

Matt.

 

[Clown Boy]

I would like to do the shrowd but do not know how. Can do it partially easily enough.

On fitting the 16" fan - will post pics when done - by Monday is the plan.


Not only more surface area but the longer blades mean more air flow over that surface area.

 

[Muzza_NZ]

These pics are already on the forum somewhere, but FYI here's the radiator that I used.
http://lextreme.com//forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1333&d=1111519062
http://lextreme.com//forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1334&d=1111519071

Also added 2x 10" fans to the front of it, on thermo switch and with a manual override.

Also left the stone guard on the underside in front of the engine, but angled it down slightly to maximise the venturi effect and move the warm air out of the engine bay.

muzz

 

[SuperRunner]

Muzza, did you move your drivetrain back any?

Do you have it running yet and any overheating?


Clown boy, you look like you have as much room as I do on my motorhome, but I overheat. Did the hood scoop really help out? I think I am having an airflow problem.

Also, where did you get that radiator? I have been looking for one that will fit under the support frame.

 

[Clown Boy]

Clown boy, you look like you have as much room as I do on my motorhome, but I overheat. Did the hood scoop really help out? I think I am having an airflow problem.

Also, where did you get that radiator? I have been looking for one that will fit under the support frame.

I think the scoop helped but I fitted it during the conversion so I have never run without it. Suffice to say these mods always have heating problems due to airflow. Will post pics of the setup with fan, beforw and after for a better show of my radiator this weekend.

The radiator is from PWR. I bought it very cheaply by some good coincidences. A guy bought it as a factory second (cheap), modified the inlet\outlet and sold it to me when his conversion failed. All up I bgot a new radiator for 1/2 - 2/3 the price.

 

[Clown Boy]

Done.

Will post pics tomorrow but the temps are right down.

Stage 1: Just started driving:
no offroad work
Onroad - mid\high 90s. Only broke 100 deg when stuffing around alot.

Stage 2: Added new bullbar:
offroad - heated to 110 deg very quickly but cooled quickly when stopped.
Onroad - high 90s, breaking 100 without much difficulty.

Stage 3: Cut holes in bullbar for extra ventilation and air flow
Offroad - heated to 110 deg slower but still got there.
Onroad - Low 90s, getting to mid after some city driving.

Stage 4: Replaces twin 9" fans with a single 16" fan (Now):
I haven't done much driving yet but can confirm:
When driving home at night, after some rain - about 20-30 minutes of city driving - Didn't exceed 75 deg.

When driving to do the shopping during the day, very hot day - about 20 minutes each way of city driving - Didn't exceed 90 deg. Spent almost the whole trip in mid\high 80s.

So I put my fans cut in temp up to 80 degrees to avoid trips like the first one above where it was too cold and will see how she goes. Definitely where I want it to be onroad - will test offroad ina few weeks.

No pics on me, will take some tonight (if I remember)

 

[Muzza_NZ]

Hi SuperRunner,
I've done about 20,000km with this setup, and haven't had any problems.
I borrowed a digital thermometer from a mate and checked out the inlet and outlet pipe temps after a 3hr open road run on a 28 deg C day, and from memory radiator inlet was 85 - 87 deg C, and outlet was about 76 deg C. I'm not too sure what is a good or bad number, but I guess if I'd had the thermo fans on for the whole trip it may have been 5 - 10 deg C cooler...

If anything, the one mod I would do is to replace the 2x 10" push fans with a single 14 or 16" pull one. I originally didn't do this as I was running the idler pulley directly above the crank (the one for the original viscous fan) and had clearance problems, but now the belt goes directly from the crank to my relocated alternator and there's tonnes of room. I would probably do well to machine the aluminium pulley bearing surround down to increase clearance too.

Muzz

 

[webbie]

I've got 2 x 11" 'pusher' thermo's on mine. Never had prob on road - ever. Give it as much curry as you want, only ever gets to 100, stop at lights back 92 deg (sensor is on outlet of engine). Only ever got hot when on very soft sand. Would get to about 110deg and pull over to cool down and drink beer. This would happen about every 10 mins or so, but this was fully loaded - mind you engine oil temp would also reach 115 deg and auto trans fluid would also get to 115. Soon as car empty at camp site, fang along soft sand doing 70km/h, sat on 105 with fans on.

I must mention that i do not have the splash guards (b/t chassis and body at front wheels) and have the bonnet spaced up 30mm at rear. I do not have a bullbar or spot lights. I also have a 12" X 15" trans cooler mounted on front of the rad.

Next step is to try one of the drift style indented scoops that draws air out from behind the radiator.

I can pin point the problem with these conversions. There is simply no air flow to let the hot air out. Bullbars, spot lights, a/c condensors also make things worse. As for the solution? Cant help on that one. Trial and error.

Not sure if this helps, but anyway.

Cheers.

 

[SuperRunner]

Webbie... you are running stock radiator? How did did you mount the engine. Did you move the drivetrain back any? You have a picture of the clearance between the engine and the radiator?

Ever thought about going aluminum? If you only have mild overheating problems, I bet an aluminum radiator would cure that.

 

[webbie]

SuperRunner, sorry for the late reply.

Yes, I am running the stock (diesel) radiator.

How did did you mount the engine

You have a picture of the clearance between the engine and the radiator?

Its prob best to show pics. Excuse the A/C hose just hanging there.

Did you move the drivetrain back any?

I can't answer this directly. Yes it did move rearwards (35mm) but that could have been due to going from manual to auto. The motor is as close the firewall as possible.

Ever thought about going aluminum?

Of course. But if I was going to do that, I would go custom and try to move it forward to get a big set of thermos on the rear. Spoke to rad specialist - long story short - if you dont have enough air flow around engine (particularly between rad and front of motor) then the best radiator in the world will not help.

Got heaps more pics. PM me email if you want more.

Cheers.