kc95sc400
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- Charlotte, NC
The Fish
- Thread starter kc95sc400
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Your pace is astounding. Keep it up man!
I love that bypass set up. That is going to work (and sound) sweet.
while the spring rate will determine when the valve opens, and that solely a product of pressue (psi)...the valve likely has a maximum flow capacity as well (cfm), which could result in some boost creep.
ultimately, I would bet that the valve is capable of blowing off sufficient cfm to prevent boost creep for this application.
Pods. Cheapies but they work fine and they come with several different mounting options.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-...ryZ33675QQihZ015QQitemZ250177343836QQtcZphoto
I installed the sensor in place of the front OEM O2 sensor on the driverside. This is way too close to the exhaust ports as per AEM's directions, but untill I get my headers, it's the only place available that is before the cats. The OEM manifolds are very short and they dump directly into the cats.
KC
I am currently running just the stock ECU, no piggyback. Although I've been assured by a few people, it still seems awfully lean. But..when I hit the throttle good, it instantlly goes rich.
On sorta a funny note. Today when I got home, I pulled the EFI fuse to reset the memory, something I should have done after the install. Went to Discount Auto Parts to purchase a fan clutch and the check engine light came on. You'll never guess. Code 26 AFR rich malfunction.
Should have left it alone, didn't have a CEL before pulling the EFI fuse. I'm going to clear it and see if it comes back on.
KC
kc95sc400
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- 524
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- Charlotte, NC
Parts
Guys,
Over the last couple of days I have taken possesion of some parts and I thought I'd share.
Intercooler piping. I kinda guessed at it, picked pipes individually. I'm sure some cutting and welding will be required.
Intercooler.
Bypass which will be vented to atmosphere before, and as far away from the MAF as possible.
This is the boost limiter valve I am going to try out. My only concern is that it will likely start opening before the desired pressure, unless there is some design element to prevent it. It's a pretty simple one way check valve. The "release pressure" is adjusted by turning the top threaded portion, which adds or relieves spring pressure.
More pics of valve.
Last but not least, AEM wideband.
I had purchase a cooling fan and clutch on ebay, the seller turned out to be a deadbeat. I am currently trying to re-source.
If I manage to have all the parts in hand by the weekend before Thanksgiving, I will by bolting this baby on!
KC
Guys,
Over the last couple of days I have taken possesion of some parts and I thought I'd share.
Intercooler piping. I kinda guessed at it, picked pipes individually. I'm sure some cutting and welding will be required.
Intercooler.
Bypass which will be vented to atmosphere before, and as far away from the MAF as possible.
This is the boost limiter valve I am going to try out. My only concern is that it will likely start opening before the desired pressure, unless there is some design element to prevent it. It's a pretty simple one way check valve. The "release pressure" is adjusted by turning the top threaded portion, which adds or relieves spring pressure.
More pics of valve.
Last but not least, AEM wideband.
I had purchase a cooling fan and clutch on ebay, the seller turned out to be a deadbeat. I am currently trying to re-source.
If I manage to have all the parts in hand by the weekend before Thanksgiving, I will by bolting this baby on!
KC
Blizzy
New Member
- Messages
- 91
- Location
- Fort Wayne, IN
Your pace is astounding. Keep it up man!
I love that bypass set up. That is going to work (and sound) sweet.
Boosted2.0
New Member
- Messages
- 91
- Location
- Houston, TX
Great progress!
Beccas Grandpa is doing well so it looks like we will be in your neck of the woods for Christmas. We're going to try to finagle an extra day onto the beginning of the trip so we can get some time with you guys - we'll see how it goes.
Beccas Grandpa is doing well so it looks like we will be in your neck of the woods for Christmas. We're going to try to finagle an extra day onto the beginning of the trip so we can get some time with you guys - we'll see how it goes.
kc95sc400
New Member
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- 524
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- Charlotte, NC
Lextreme II
Just call me "Lex"
- Messages
- 12,033
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KC,
How many cfm does the pop valve flow?
How many cfm does the pop valve flow?
kc95sc400
New Member
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- 524
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- Charlotte, NC
Lextreme II
Just call me "Lex"
- Messages
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- City of Halos
It is important to know because if the valve flow say 5 psi and you are boosting 15 psi and that mean you will get 10 psi max. However, you goal was to run 6 psi.
MightyAl
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- 47
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psi and cfm are two different things. Maybe I am lost here but psi would be the issue right??
Blizzy
New Member
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- 91
- Location
- Fort Wayne, IN
while the spring rate will determine when the valve opens, and that solely a product of pressue (psi)...the valve likely has a maximum flow capacity as well (cfm), which could result in some boost creep.
ultimately, I would bet that the valve is capable of blowing off sufficient cfm to prevent boost creep for this application.
kc95sc400
New Member
- Messages
- 524
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
Question.....
Installed my wideband (pics later) and at idle I am running very very lean, off the scale of the gauge, 18+ to 1. When I unplug the MAF sensor, it goes to 14.5ish to 1. When I pinch the fuel return line, the AFR goes to 15.5ish to 1.
Assuming the gauge is reading accurately, bad MAF?
Thanks,
KC
Installed my wideband (pics later) and at idle I am running very very lean, off the scale of the gauge, 18+ to 1. When I unplug the MAF sensor, it goes to 14.5ish to 1. When I pinch the fuel return line, the AFR goes to 15.5ish to 1.
Assuming the gauge is reading accurately, bad MAF?
Thanks,
KC
kc95sc400
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- 524
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- Charlotte, NC
On the valve - like I said, I will report on how well it works.
FYI for those who don't know, it is adjustable. With the top moved all the way out, there is almost no spring pressure and it opens easily.
When I get everything hooked up, I will have the valve fully open for my first test drive. If no boost is made, then I'll know that it flows enough release x psi equal to whatever pulley I'm using.
For my first attempt, I am going to attempt to run the pulley that came with the supercharger. It's a 2.4inch pulley which should equal 12psi with a 5.5 crank.
KC
FYI for those who don't know, it is adjustable. With the top moved all the way out, there is almost no spring pressure and it opens easily.
When I get everything hooked up, I will have the valve fully open for my first test drive. If no boost is made, then I'll know that it flows enough release x psi equal to whatever pulley I'm using.
For my first attempt, I am going to attempt to run the pulley that came with the supercharger. It's a 2.4inch pulley which should equal 12psi with a 5.5 crank.
KC
kc95sc400
New Member
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- 524
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- Charlotte, NC
Guys,
My wideband is working fine. A few people over at CL (including SC400TT) assured me that 18 to 1 at idle is normal. I know that most cars idle lean, I just didn't know they idle THAT lean.
Anyhow, took the car for a spirited drive today and here are some AFR numbers.
Idle 17-18 to 1.
Cruising 17-18 to 1.
Deceleration varies quite a bit from quite rich to quite lean. ? I suppose this is normal.
Light acceleration 14-15.5 to 1
Light to moderate acceleration 13.5ish to 1
Moderate acceleration 12.5 - 13.5ish to 1
Heavy acceleration 12 to 13sih to 1
WOT 10 - 12ish to 1
Seems to me that there is a bit of room for some boost.
Some pics of the installed gauges. Oh ya, BTW, I also put in an autometer electronic boost gauge.
Night pic, they don't really glare that much.
Pic of sending unit for boost gauge.
Another.
I used the plug end from an old, failed O2 sensor for wiring.
The two black wires are for the OEM heater. I wired in a 10ohm resistor I bought from radioshack to prevent a CEL.
The blue wire is the signal wire from the OEM sensor to the ECM, this is where I wired the 0-1 output from the AEM.
The white wire is the sensor ground, I put this wire to ground.
So far so good, no CEL and is running good.
One step closer! Still hoping to be boosted before Thanksgiving!
KC
My wideband is working fine. A few people over at CL (including SC400TT) assured me that 18 to 1 at idle is normal. I know that most cars idle lean, I just didn't know they idle THAT lean.
Anyhow, took the car for a spirited drive today and here are some AFR numbers.
Idle 17-18 to 1.
Cruising 17-18 to 1.
Deceleration varies quite a bit from quite rich to quite lean. ? I suppose this is normal.
Light acceleration 14-15.5 to 1
Light to moderate acceleration 13.5ish to 1
Moderate acceleration 12.5 - 13.5ish to 1
Heavy acceleration 12 to 13sih to 1
WOT 10 - 12ish to 1
Seems to me that there is a bit of room for some boost.
Some pics of the installed gauges. Oh ya, BTW, I also put in an autometer electronic boost gauge.
Night pic, they don't really glare that much.
Pic of sending unit for boost gauge.
Another.
I used the plug end from an old, failed O2 sensor for wiring.
The two black wires are for the OEM heater. I wired in a 10ohm resistor I bought from radioshack to prevent a CEL.
The blue wire is the signal wire from the OEM sensor to the ECM, this is where I wired the 0-1 output from the AEM.
The white wire is the sensor ground, I put this wire to ground.
So far so good, no CEL and is running good.
One step closer! Still hoping to be boosted before Thanksgiving!
KC
RedPhoenix
New Member
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- 505
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- Palm Harbor, FL
Awesome. Exact way I will be mounting my gauges. Did you use the autometer cups to hold them or what?
How far back did you wind up putting the sensor.
How far back did you wind up putting the sensor.
- Messages
- 4,790
- Location
- Houston, TX
That's great; I would have bet money it wouldn't idle any leaner than 14:1. And this is with the factory ECU and a piggyback?
I'm doing well to idle a tad richer than stoich with my Supra. Any leaner than that produces a pretty rough idle. But this is also with an AEM standalone, big injectors, etc.
I'm doing well to idle a tad richer than stoich with my Supra. Any leaner than that produces a pretty rough idle. But this is also with an AEM standalone, big injectors, etc.
Boosted2.0
New Member
- Messages
- 91
- Location
- Houston, TX
Lookin great!
kc95sc400
New Member
- Messages
- 524
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
Pods. Cheapies but they work fine and they come with several different mounting options.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-...ryZ33675QQihZ015QQitemZ250177343836QQtcZphoto
I installed the sensor in place of the front OEM O2 sensor on the driverside. This is way too close to the exhaust ports as per AEM's directions, but untill I get my headers, it's the only place available that is before the cats. The OEM manifolds are very short and they dump directly into the cats.
KC
kc95sc400
New Member
- Messages
- 524
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
I am currently running just the stock ECU, no piggyback. Although I've been assured by a few people, it still seems awfully lean. But..when I hit the throttle good, it instantlly goes rich.
On sorta a funny note. Today when I got home, I pulled the EFI fuse to reset the memory, something I should have done after the install. Went to Discount Auto Parts to purchase a fan clutch and the check engine light came on. You'll never guess. Code 26 AFR rich malfunction.
Should have left it alone, didn't have a CEL before pulling the EFI fuse. I'm going to clear it and see if it comes back on.
KC
Lextreme II
Just call me "Lex"
- Messages
- 12,033
- Location
- City of Halos
Fan on its way.....
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