Procharged 1992 SC400 "Fish bracket setup"

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

spf_lexus

Active Member
Messages
2,266
Location
Murrieta California
Hey everyone, I know i have not posted about anything new lately as school has taken over most of my time. Over the past semester I have been bringing parts over from california so I could swap my centrifugal setup from my project LS470 over to something i can use every day. I have been driving this setup for the past 3 days without any issues excepot for a small belt alignment issue that im working on. The night I finish installing everythig and listening to it sing, it starts to snow... hard. The next morning school was closed and 3 days after the wntire town was socket in so test driving was out of the question. Today was the first day I could open it up. Here's the setup:

ATI Procharger P1SC @ 7-8psi
No Intercooler, 3" mandrel piping
Tial brushed aluminum 50mm BOV
dual 14" electric fan conversion
LS400 fan bracket swap, fan pump delete
EGR + EVAP + AC + PCV + 3 CAT delete + 2 muffler + interior delete
Rush Imports tri Y long tube headers
Dual mandrel 2.25" exhaust w/ Magnaflow straight thru's + X pipe, 4" tips
Optima redtop relocated in back seat
19x9.5 +28 19x8.5 + 34 255x35 all around
Megan street coilovers, pillowball toe rods, toe arms, motor mounts
Supra BBk w/ SS lines
Seibon carbon OEM hood
Corbeau LG1 Seats, Corbeau harnesses, Corbeau 2x locking sliders
4.27 Final drive swap
Lextreme 2800 stall TC
B&M Trans cooler



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If you look closely, the belt has stripped a tooth, running 5 ribs instead of 6 but its mostly for sizing purposes. Last time I tried sizing belts i snapped 5 before I got wize and shimmed everything right the 1st time. Also the fuse box is a SOB to relocate or even deal with. I siliconed the entire side that faces the blocwer bracket and shrink tubed my battery relocation connections.
 
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Right away I noticed the boost response was much quicker versus my previous intercooled setup. The car just pulls, and I frankly have not given it more than 80% becuase of all the melting snow but it runs great. I know summertime might be an issue for my setup with the charge pipe being right behind the radiator and touching a coolant line but I guess i'll wait and see. Im thinking maybe a thermo-tec laced jacket? Right now I can ride it hard for an hour and still have a cold hard unit + charge pipes (but this is at 10 degrees F). Right now im in the process of installing an Autometer 5v wideband and boost gauge so im not quite done yet. Also I have started converting a stock uz lower manifold into a short runner manifold at school. I will take lots of pics of the process. Should prove useful with my top end happy boost.
 
Just tried posting on club lexus and I guess my account has been frozen. They said I need to post 30 times before I can start a new thread so im sorta pissed. Either I fudge 30 posts to meet their quota or i have someone else post it for me lol. Im waiting on a response from a moderator, I might be able to have the requirements waived.

Thanks for the comments David, this setup would never even be concieved if it wasn't for your innovative 1uz brackets.



I have been inspecting the passenger side of the block and I swear if I can convert to a remote mounted 12v power steering pump/reservoir, I know I make a second fish bracket for TWIN Prochargers! I have plenty of room for the head unit and a second intake, and it really just comes down to the p/s pump.... its the ONLY variable holding me back from running 2 of these!
 
Thanks for the libnk Redpheonix. Have you drivin the car w/ the mr2 pump yet? I heard the newer mr2 2-wire pump is easier to install. Does it require the stock power steering ECU or can it be effectively wired 12v constant?

After a close inspection of the pass side block, there are 4 stud locations that align with the driver side bracket, making it totally possible to run twin centrifugals. Plenty of room for everything, now im totally jealous of the vvti front mount throttle body. I could route both units from the front and it would look/flow awesome.For reference, the koeinesseg CCR runs a 4.7L v8 twin centrifugal (rotrex) and was at 1 point the fastest production car. I am getting a bit ahead of myself, the power steering needs to go 1st and be replaced with something i can run every day of the week, on 110' summers and below zero winters. My sc gets a lot of abuse.

I have a local import junkyard with a huge Toyota section. I can source everything but I need some more info on connecting the pieces.
 
Looks GREAT! You have to send me an email or post where you got the 90 degree silicone hose for the ATI p1sc. mine is falling apart!!!




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Right away I noticed the boost response was much quicker versus my previous intercooled setup. The car just pulls, and I frankly have not given it more than 80% becuase of all the melting snow but it runs great. I know summertime might be an issue for my setup with the charge pipe being right behind the radiator and touching a coolant line but I guess i'll wait and see. Im thinking maybe a thermo-tec laced jacket? Right now I can ride it hard for an hour and still have a cold hard unit + charge pipes (but this is at 10 degrees F). Right now im in the process of installing an Autometer 5v wideband and boost gauge so im not quite done yet. Also I have started converting a stock uz lower manifold into a short runner manifold at school. I will take lots of pics of the process. Should prove useful with my top end happy boost.
 
Looks GREAT! You have to send me an email or post where you got the 90 degree silicone hose for the ATI p1sc. mine is falling apart!!!

I actually put together the entire 4" intake at Pep boys. The cast silicone elbow was about $40 and the chop welded 4" 90 was about $50. They have a performance section with just 4" everything. The P1sc has a 3.5" ID and a 3.85" OD so this elbow is PERFECT. Generally the blowers' intake should be 1/2" larger than the blower inlet.
 
I really need to get my wideband installed. I cant tell if im listening to belt racket at 4,000rpm or detonation? Tomorrow im grabbing a new belt to see if the sound goes away.




Does anyone know about any kind of lifetime serpentine belt warranty? I can chew threw a 1/2 dozen belts while I iron out the bugs and push the engine to its limits. I remember when I was at this stage with my LS, I must have spent $200 on belts while I massaged everything just right. It's pretty much the biggest pain in the ass aspect of the fish setup. What I REALLY want is a kevlar composite serp. belt but I cant find anything. I know they can streatch but with my tensioner brace, it shouldn't be an issue.
 
try gates...i think they have a certain day guarantee. Thanks for the info! Did the chop welded 4" piece of alum come like that or did you have it made?
 
Looking good! Do you have any plan to dyno it to see the number? :biggrin:

I would love to. RIght now the car runs like garbage. Its solid until 3k, where I cant tell if im hearing detonation or belt racket. My belt is a 5 rib because it stripped the 6th rib off as I aliged the bracket right. Also I am thinking I have a bad ijector because when I run the car hard and pull the thrrotle body... I hear a distinct "hissing" sound when I put my ear to the manifold inlet. It takes my 35psi of base pressure to bleed off to zero. I am also worried about oil contamination from all this draining....
 
It takes my 35psi of base pressure to bleed off to zero.

I mean, my 35psi of base pressure bleeds off in 2 minutes. Sounds a bit fast? My return line is for sure not leaking. The car drives like its on 7 cylinders so tomorrow i will be pulling the manifold from the heads and then I will KOEO, KOEO to build base pressure and then i'll scope the underside of the injectors to see which is failing. I also might as well replace all of the injector seals to keep the boost loss down.
 
Well today I pulled my manifold to check the injectors but im still not any closer. All 8 intake pockets are of the same gold hue with no variance. The injector plugs were in good shape. I tried KOKO, KOKO to prime the system but mine wont. Should I just pull the starter relay and try and crank the engine?

Also, I dont know if i'm looking at casting marks or cracks? Looking down into the intake pocket of each head there is a "V" where the pocet transitions to both valves and in the middle of this "ridge" I can see straight lines on 6 of 8 ports. It looks like it could be cracked all the way thru but also looks like a basic casting line. Both heads have a line like this coursing through everything... looks like the heads were almost cast is 2 pieces?
 
Found the leak!

So I plugged in the injectors + cold start injector and then oriented the lower manifold vertical, with the injections aimed towards the front of the car, (manifold unbolted of course & blanket underneath). I cranked the engine w/ the ignitors unplugged and thankfully all 8 injectors are not leaking out the tips. I did find the driver side injector at the very back was gushing out of its seat when I wiggled the injector so tomorrow I will be rerplacing all 24 seals tomorrow (3 per injector).


This means I have been losing boost thru these seals, and leaning out on at least 1 cylinder so this explains a lot. I notice I get to zero vacuum almost instantly and it takes 2 gear drops to get it to climb into boost. It really does feel like I am fighting a major leak. I have a new TPS arriving on monday so I can be sure its not a fault as well (200k and no maintanence... its about time anyway).

BTW, is 35psi of idle fuel pressure normal or low?
 
Found another problem!

Well I yanked my manifold off to check for fuel leaks (which i found) and I guess somewhere in the install process a bolt fell past the intake valve and into the cylinder (rear driver side head). I had no idea upon startup until it suddenly sounded like someone threw a handfull of silver dollars into a washing machine... LOUD LOUD LOUD. I managed to pull some material out of the spark plug tube w/ a magnet and the sound thankfully went away. The material was totally mangled but there really was not much. Maybe the size of a few fingernail trimmings.


Now im really worried about a broken intake valve. Granted the material WAS ferrous material, im worried it could have been an edge of an intake valve. My idle vacuum has not chanegd so i suppsoe its a good sign?
 
I just cant figure out why my idle is ALWAYS 200rpm. My IACV has been cleaned but it still too low. I replaced my TPS but the car still has a very low idle as well as a missfire thats intermittant.

Tomorrow I will raise the idle manually with my throttle cable and re-adjust my tps.


Does anyone know if I am testing this TPS right? Im testing from IDL and E2. I cant get the ohms to get under 12ohms. I thought I set it to next to zero?
 


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