Project Thread SC470TT (VVTi) Twin Turbo Lexus SC400 with 4.7L Toyota Tundra Engine

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
It has at least 2-3 inches from the turbine. If should not be a problem at all. If it does which I dont think so, I would put in a turbine heat cover and reduce at least 50-60% of radiating heat.
 
Also rubber is a thermoset material which means once it has been set in a form it cant melt all heat will do is aid the degradtion process a little id be more worred about the p/s pump but then agin if your aiming for 1000hp then i guess you wont be driving it daily.
 
I did some work today and installed the oil return line. Due to the height of the turbo, I have to rotate the CHRA to about 45 degrees for drainage. The turbo oil outlet is about 1" above the oil pan so this might cause some drainage problem but we will see. Please see the first picture below.

I also picked up a pair of 40 mm cheap China external wastegates. For the price they are pretty good. Costed my $70 each. I plan to mount the left WG under the left header and the right WG to above the right header.
 
David,
You'll get the turbo coked and blow the seal. The oil loses its pressure while passing the center housing. It's a lot better with the gravity pull.
 

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yeah, i think it's a "bit" too level there, i'd go for another inch at least.

you can;t weld the hole up where the fitting fits into the sump and re-drill it just a shade lower...? some gravity drain is better than no drain, which that is very, very close to.
 
yeah, i think it's a "bit" too level there, i'd go for another inch at least.

you can;t weld the hole up where the fitting fits into the sump and re-drill it just a shade lower...? some gravity drain is better than no drain, which that is very, very close to.
Actually, if you put the oil pan fitting a little lower, then the oil from the hose might not be able to drain out at all due the oil in the pan backing up and block the hole. How about getting another same oil pan, cutting the hole from the first oil pan bottom and weld the lower part of the second oil pan to it. And then, move the fitting 1" or 2" lower.
 
Steve,

Nice thinking but NO.... If you lower the pan or the housing then you are affecting the cross member and other parts.... Not going to work. I knew you boys going to fight about this so I spent an hour in my garage and tilt the turbo about 1.5" higher. Now here is the new picture of the oil drain.
 
That might just do it Dave, mine isn't too much different to that although i use a larger diameter line. Mine hits the circuit though which isn't in your plans eh so if mine can handle decent gee's then for straight line work your setup is probable equivalent. Only one way to find out for sure :)

So when will this beast be running anyways?
 
Steve,

Nice thinking but NO.... If you lower the pan or the housing then you are affecting the cross member and other parts.... Not going to work. I knew you boys going to fight about this so I spent an hour in my garage and tilt the turbo about 1.5" higher. Now here is the new picture of the oil drain.
Yep..Yep..Yep. I completely forgot about the crossmembers..etc. Your new angled turbo will drain just fine. But...how about when you go down hill? How much of an angle is enough for the turbo oil to still be above and drain to the oil pan in this situation? A few seconds is fine, but a few minutes is a problem.
 
David, it'll be interesting to see if you get sufficient gravity oil drainage with that low slope arrangement, particularly at high RPM.

You might want to think about a scavenge pump just for the turbo, or a vacuum pump for the whole crankcase, which would help "pull" the oil from that drain line.

Again, it's another of those situations where you'll try it and surprise us with the results!
 
This car will spent 99.9% accelerate forward. By going forward it will forces the oil back which drains to the pan. Going down hill normally we dont accelerate therefore it should be ok. Another example would be braking. When I brake, I tend to release the gas pedal. So i think both situation should be ok.

I have thought about using the hydraulic fan pump to oil pickup but lots of plumping. I am sure this setup will be ok, but we will see.
 

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Recieved my twin turbo intercooler today. Here are the specs:

Overall Size 28.00" X 12.00" X 3.50"
Core Size 25.00" X 6.00" X 3.50"
DUAL 2.50" inlets, Single 3.00" Outlet
Polished endtanks
1240 HP+
Mounting tabs for easy installation

Here is what the seller have to say:
This is a very high quality bar and plate intercooler--designed to out perform any any other intercooler on the market! This intercooler would be perfect for any car making some serious horsepower; Supras, Mustangs, Nissans, Grand Nationals, etc. This intercooler is 3.50" thick, not 3.00", and will easily support 1492 CFM's 663HP-1002HP at max efficiency 1.5psi pressure drop. We have made as much as 1309HP with this intercooler. 2-Year Warranty. Dealers Welcome! please check out other auctions for more Intercoolers
Got to know the ebay seller pretty well and the quality is EXCELLENT!.

img-36-0-large.jpg


If you are interested in this huge intercooler. Please contact http://treadstoneperformance.com and tell the owner that Lextreme send you. I really like the qaulity. Its well worth the $400.
 
Steve,

Just got a set of heads today and will drop them off tomorrow morning and hopefully finish in two to three weeks. Then we are going to have another BBQ again...lol....

david
 
Glad to see someone is manufacturing intercoolers the 'right' way. Top and bottom tapered tanks with vertical tubes. The only thing I disagree with is the bar and plate core for competition use. The correct tube core will maintain pressure loss to less than .7 psi with very little difference in outlet temps at extreme flow rates.
 
quick possibly off/on topic question, is it better to have the intercooler in front or behind the main radiator? I am guessing in front of? How much would that inhibit the main radiator?
 


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