questions about my sc400-T build

[poorsupra]

well guys countless hours on here, v-eight, and CL but i still have some questions. i have a 93 sc400 i am compliling a single turbo kit for. as a begining step i plan on running an initial 7-8PSI to work the bugs out. i see that the stock fuel system supports 7psi stock and some people use an FMU w/12:1 ratio. ive heard everyone and their mom saying fmu's are a waste of time. i was planning on running the apexi safc but ive been hearing mixed reviews about that also. right now with a goal of 8psi, with a MLS HG, arps, and valve springs i hope to up the psi in the future but thats getting ahead of myself, right now i need to properly control my a/f ratios with my current set up.

set up:holset H1C, 315cc injectors, 255lph walbro, 3" downpipe,my own custom manifolds, apexi FMIC, xs power 46mm wastegate .55 bar spring(7.2ish psi), hks ssq, 4" turbo inlet with AEM dryflow, egr delete, PCV valve on both sides w/catch can, -4an feed, -10an drain, oil cooler w/relocation kit. thats about it for engine stuff, clean up the engine bay a bit-relocated battery to trunk, abs/trac delete,

 

[stevechumo]

My mom said the FMU should work, so I went ahead and used it for awhile without any problem up to 9 psi of boost. HF-HP 255 lph fuel pump, 12:1 FMU, and stock injectors. But if you'll run this setup, I'd say 8 psi is a safer limit.

 

[poorsupra]

My mom said the FMU should work, so I went ahead and used it for awhile without any problem up to 9 psi of boost. HF-HP 255 lph fuel pump, 12:1 FMU, and stock injectors. But if you'll run this setup, I'd say 8 psi is a safer limit.

your mom? haha i have some 315cc injectors i can pop in, from my research a 6:1 fmu with the 315cc's should be about right. or would you just say buy the apexi safc to control the 315cc's?

thanks for you reply Stevechumo.

 

[stevechumo]

APEXI safc with 315cc injectors is a better way to go. The other FMU route is an economical setup, although it's still good enough to handle low boost.

 

[poorsupra]

bumping from the dead! finally about to pull the trigger on this build, took the past year to get the exterior of my car dialed in to my liking.


few questions-
1) i have the oil filter plate that totally replaces the OEM unit. does anyone know which is the feed/return port(if you unbolt the filter elbow).

2)as far as a oil cooler goes... should it go, feed from motor-----oil filter----oil cooler---back to block? also does the height of the oil cooler in relation to the oil pan reflect the oil level in the pan? or does the proper placement of the oil cooler feed/return line ensure oil doesnt overly flow/drain out into the oil pan.(if that makes sense haha)

3) also when deleting the stock oil filter mount i run into where to PROPERLY "T" the feed for the oil pressure switch AND the turbo oil feed. i have a holset so i am not going to run a restrictor. thinking to "T" the fitting right off the block and have one port the stock oil pressure, and the other for the turbo, but i guess my question is will the oil PSI be enough?

4) another problem ive heard of people running into was idle issues with the 315cc injectors. since i will NOT be using the SAFC, i will probably go with stock injectors, a walbro, and run my RRFPR at 12:1, check A/f ratios and see how it is. can anyone tell me what idle fuel PSI should be? ballpark. i have the 315's if i need em.

5)what OHM resistors are require when doing the EGR delete, annnnnd where do i put it?!? haha

 

[stevechumo]

bumping from the dead!

Sounds like a zombie build! Keep them coming and I'll pull the trigger. Lol.

1) The last time I opened up the engine was 4 years, so I don't remember exactly how the oil filter pipe is routed inside. Maybe someone else can chime in here.

2) Why would you need a separate engine oil cooler? It's not really needed, unless you use it to cool the turbo. I don't have a separate oil cooler and it's fine. For the location, it'll probably be an issue if it's too high and far from the block. If I recall correctly, the 1UZ has 80 psi of oil pressure, so it'll have enough pressure to push the oil through the cooler.

3) Don't know how your adapter is designed, but i make a T right on OEM oil filter block where there're 2 big allen screws are. it's fine for me that way.

4) Stock fuel pressure is about 40 psi.

5) My friend has a supercharged LS400. He doesn't have the resistor for the EGR. He just unhooked the plug. No engine light whatsoever. You may not need to worry about the resistor. But if you do, I think it's 10,000 ohm 1/2 watt resistor.

 

[poorsupra]

thanks for the speedy reply!

looks like i might just keep it OEM oil set up until i "need" the cooler, might just repurpose my setrab cooler as a p/s cooler.

well, looks like the only "issue" i have, i cannot address yet is the downpipe. i want a slightly drivers side front turbo orientation. so its going to route down towards the passenger side, and carefully bend under and around the alternator, in between the sway bar. fabricating it from there to where the "stock" 2jzgte turbo exit would lie.

 

[poorsupra]

OHH and if anyone has single turbo 1uz downpipe pictures please post them up! they are like trying to hunt down a unicorn!

 

[stevechumo]

I already caught my unicorn. Check this out.

 

[poorsupra]

sweet!!! looks like a tight squeeze on the passenger side near the alterantor/sway bar mount/frame. did you perform all the fabrication? appears to be 3" correct? i was thinking of using a few 3" mandrel bends from jegs and splicing in a few 2jz downpipe slices ive came across.


ohh and im going to commandeer my big setrab for my p/s cooler. should i stay close to factory I.D. on the lines? or what size braided line should i get? im going to move it to the passenger side to shorten the lines and clean up under there. i already put a LS400 p/s pump, but now i have a leak at the main fitting with stock sc lines. tried the ls400 banjo bolt, but still leaks.

edit_
i like your wastegate merge pipe, its pretty clean. i was thinking of just running a screamer dumped under the subframe. since this isnt my daily, however i dont want to melt anything with extended driving. my car will sound fairly mellow, so a open WG should liven that up. i also have a cut out on my mid pipe im going to use(for track days/stuntin')

edit#2_
does your driverside header face stock direction and simply "U" under the tranny and merge into the passenger side? any side shots?

 

[stevechumo]

sweet!!! looks like a tight squeeze on the passenger side near the alterantor/sway bar mount/frame. did you perform all the fabrication? appears to be 3" correct? i was thinking of using a few 3" mandrel bends from jegs and splicing in a few 2jz downpipe slices ive came across.

Yep. I did everything by myself. The pipe that leads to the turbo is 2.5". I keep it that size to increase pressure flow. The downpipe is 3". You're in So Cal? I can tell you where to buy all mandrel pipes for cheap. Don't bother to buy online. Let me know if you need the info.

ohh and im going to commandeer my big setrab for my p/s cooler. should i stay close to factory I.D. on the lines? or what size braided line should i get? im going to move it to the passenger side to shorten the lines and clean up under there. i already put a LS400 p/s pump, but now i have a leak at the main fitting with stock sc lines. tried the ls400 banjo bolt, but still leaks.

I think it's best to keep the same inner diameter as the OEM size. I know a place in So Cal that has all types of fittings and hoses that you can customize for the P/S line. If you have a leak, then try a good new soft aluminum washer. Or you can put a little gasket maker silicone around the washer, and that'll seal it tight.

edit_
i like your wastegate merge pipe, its pretty clean. i was thinking of just running a screamer dumped under the subframe. since this isnt my daily, however i dont want to melt anything with extended driving. my car will sound fairly mellow, so a open WG should liven that up. i also have a cut out on my mid pipe im going to use(for track days/stuntin')

edit#2_
does your driverside header face stock direction and simply "U" under the tranny and merge into the passenger side? any side shots?

My original setup has the downpipe under the subframe. It worked fine for me. The only issue is it sometimes scrapes when I go over big bumps. That pipe was flattened to only 1.5" to gain clearance.

You're right about my driver side manifold. I don't have picture of it now. I'll try to look it up.

 

[poorsupra]

hmm i was thinking about using 2.25 to loop the header around to the driver side, then making the passenger header runner 2.5" all the way to the turbo flange. i will definitely need to route the DP up and over, megan 32 ways= no room under neath.

yes i am in so cal. high desert area, apple valley. but i frequent rancho cucamonga areas too.

i bet a new crush washer is probably the culprit.

i appreciate the tips stevechumo! finding someone knowledgeable about this is rare, let alone someone who is willing to discuss the details and specifics.

 

[stevechumo]

2.25" is too big for each manifold. It'll slow down the velocity, thus it'll increase boost lag. I use only 1.75" from each manifold. But when both of them merge together, that's when I use 2.5".

The shop that sells all mandrel pipes, all sizes, all angles, all shapes, flanges, are in Anaheim. It's call Al's Headers. You can look up in the YellowPages.com. Tell him that Steve (the guy who's been working on his turbo lexus) referring. He'll cut you a good deal.

 

[poorsupra]

on another note, im going to run a -10 drain, i have read the lextreme diy as to put it under the crank pulley, note in that diy picture that its on a ls400, sc's are diff. on his sc470tt i see both drains on the side of the upper pan, which i think is aluminum. am i able to put it inthe steel pan? or is it too low for proper oil drainage?



or if it is necessary i could remove the upper aluminum pan and take it to a shop to weld on a AN fitting.

 

[stevechumo]

It should be better done on the upper pan. I believe the oil is up to the top of the steel pan when it's full. However, you can test that out by 1) making sure the engine is full of oil 2) draining the oil out 3) take out the steel pan and fill those used oil back. If the oil doesn't reach to the top, then you can make a fitting at the top of it, as far above as possible.

 

[stevechumo]

The only easy way to remove the steel pan is to lower the sub frame by about 0.5 - 1". That's when you can slide out the pan. There's no other way to slide it out if the sub frame is up & tight. I took it out multiple times, so I learned of the hard way. Lol.

 

[poorsupra]

is the top pan easier to remove? if its easier then ill just pull it off and pay someone to weld the aluminum AN bung

 

[stevechumo]

The aluminum pan is harder to remove. You'll need to remove the steel pan first in order to access to the aluminum pan. Estimate for the access to the aluminum before removing the steel pan. If there's no access to the aluminum pan, then you'll need to take the engine out. By the way, if you build the turbo manifolds, it's so much easier and quicker to have the engine outside. If you have the engine still in the bay, it'll be triple the work to build the manifold. Been there and done that.

I removed the aluminum pan when the engine was outside, so things were all easy. Lol.

 

[poorsupra]

well it just so happens i have a spare 1uz just sitting to go in my buddys hilux. i can mock everything up on his motor. seems like the oil drain is going to turn out like the biggest pain pita of the whole build.

 

[poorsupra]

well i installed my koyo MKIV supra radiator, sc300 overflow. aluminum radiator lines, abs/CC/egr/Hyd fan delete, ls400 fan bracket, dual 12" fans, soldered in my new LCD screen and got that pesky door lock actuator installed. over the past week or so