powerglide adaptor

[cowboy bebop]

So to do the math, you initial cost is about $4,000 and you are selling the first 20 sets at $380 each. I would assume for production (30 pieces) would cost you about $175-$250 each. If you are selling it at $380 each. You will profiting about $130 each. To produce 30 pieces it would cost you about $7,500 plus the initial R&D ($5,000). So you put in total of $12,500, but yet you only getting $7,600 for now. So from you are loosing $4,900. The second batch you are selling at $750 and you will be profiting $500 each. Then you need to sell additional 10 more pieces to recovery your investment. As stated you are selling at the market price? What is the market price for the adapter? For the 10 adapters you might not see the money coming back for the next 2 years or so. Honestly, if you really spent that kind of money as u stated, I really think u made a bad investment.

I don't advertise on these forums, so I won't address your statements. Suffice it to say that I haven't made any money from the production of these.

I was watching Rod Millen's IS430 project. They did the samething with the 3UZFE with V160 6 speed tranny. They didnot use the laser guided alignment or all those fancy tools. They did it without it. I hope you are not using fear tactics to scare off beginners.

Let's examine that... They cut the flange off, and rewelded the Lexus flange back on to the cut bellhousing. There's a distinct chance that the line up was not true. If nothing else but from the warping of the parent material under heat. Plus, you're watching a TV show... there may be things that happened behind the scenes that they didnt' show you. As in machining the face true, and as in wallowing out the holes slightly to ensure everything went in. Last I heard they have no plans to release this option as a kit, and that's probably for good reason.

I'm not here to scare off beginners, but beginners as well as yourselves should be asking these questions. If you are satisfied with how something is produced enough to push high HP levels through it, then by all means, feel free to run it. It's your nickel.

Everybody understandably want "proof", and accurate measuring equipment is where the proof starts. It's either right, or it is wrong.

Eric

 

[The Flea]

Lextech, I think all of the GM trannys that you and I are familiar with have removable bells down under. But I think you could just get an Aussie case and put your guts in it. It would sure save on the shipping from down under. Some of the aftermarket PG's in the states have removable bells, but as you know are very expensive.

 

[Zuffen]

Swapping bellhousings on transmissions has been around forever. I think Noah used an adaptor on the Ark!

Check this link to see how it's done in the States.

http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/135_0504_trans/

Obtaining the correct location of dowells and bolt holes is quite easy over the net.

Also using the same formula here is a photo of a Chrysler Torqueflite 727 bolted up behind a 1UZ bellhousing which is bolted to my 1UZ.

I used the same method of centering the bell on the front pump of the transmission as prosa63 but rather than using the pump to locate the bell I used the recess machined in the transmission case. The recess located the rear of the bell and the dowells located the front of the bell. None of this is rocket science but then I'm not a rocket scientist.

I'll post a photo of it later.

 

[cowboy bebop]

Alright, alright Zuffen, you're wearing me out man. : ) You do it your way and I'll do it my way.

Eric

 

[WDoherty]

everyone has a good point here, but if alingment isn't perfect things could blow apart, maybe this powerglide asapter sounds legit, but lex, the homemade th400 adapter could be dangerous if you are not exactly sure what you are doing, adapting transmissions is something amatuers should not do. And maybe the laser stuff is unnecessary, i don't know what methods others have used. Maybe you could ask castlemain or dellow, or an american transmission adapter company how they make their plates and get measurements. I wouldn't want to see a flywheel coming through the floor at high rpm and ending lextreme as we know it.

 

[cowboy bebop]

That's what I'm saying... safety first. This is a load bearing item here, and something that has to be made "in house". Meaning that maker and the maker alone is responsible for all quality controls. SOOOOO what does that mean.....All it means is that you get out of it exactly what you put into it.

Eric

 

[Zuffen]

You can make your own adaptor and make it as safe an any professionally made adaptor.

To make your own you do need to know what you are doing, be careful and capable of what you are trying to achieve.

I've made quite a few adaptors over the years with very basic equipment and still have both legs to prove it.

Whilst safety is a BIG consideration you also need to understand that any misalignment will affect the life span of your transmission.

Most autos can run about 10thou out of centre tolerence before starting to thrash themselves to death. If you can't work down to 5thou don't attempt it.

One other point when adapting autos is don't forget the torque converter needs room for the spigot to slide into the crank boss as it balloons under operation.

Here's another thread http://www.spagweb.com/v8mini/pievan/pie_adapter1.htm that shows just how easy it is to make an adaptor. I wouldn't want to be near it when it runs but the engine and transnission are joined.

 

[cowboy bebop]

You can make your own adaptor and make it as safe an any professionally made adaptor.

To make your own you do need to know what you are doing, be careful and capable of what you are trying to achieve.

I've made quite a few adaptors over the years with very basic equipment and still have both legs to prove it.

Whilst safety is a BIG consideration you also need to understand that any misalignment will affect the life span of your transmission.

Most autos can run about 10thou out of centre tolerence before starting to thrash themselves to death. If you can't work down to 5thou don't attempt it.

One other point when adapting autos is don't forget the torque converter needs room for the spigot to slide into the crank boss as it balloons under operation.

Here's another thread http://www.spagweb.com/v8mini/pievan/pie_adapter1.htm that shows just how easy it is to make an adaptor. I wouldn't want to be near it when it runs but the engine and transnission are joined.

Zuffen, glad to see your'e agreeing with me finally. : ) I wouldn't want to be in the same city as to where that adpater you linked above is being produced. That thing looks like a backyard experiment.

I agree 100% with you that if you have no way to work down to a documented (that means no guessing) .005", then you have no business producing an adapter. .005" is the most liberal I would even venture. Eyeballing it, using stencils and hole punches won't cut it. Not for anything that you expect other people to use anyways. The key is to use proper measuring equipment from the start, and know where to start from. Plus the machines hav eto be calibrated over the course of the cut. Many machines in shops today are not since an on site factory calibration usually runs over $10,000usd.

It's important to remember here too that we're not dealing with stock motors pumping out a small 250rwhp. If you're running a powergide, or a TH400, chance are good that you will be in excess of 700rwhp. Otherwise what's the point? On a motor spinning 8000rpm, making over 700rwhp, that tranny adapter better be dead nuts on.

 

[WDoherty]

that link man..........that person needs to be stopped!

 

[prosa63]

guys there are adapters like mine in service here in australia behind blown 1uzfe engines that produce 1300hp at low 6 second passes with no trouble.these guys run psi superchargers that pump between 6-7 lpm

 

[Zuffen]

Here's a photo of an my bellhousing on the machined plate to centre it on the lathe.

We used the Toyota pump hole in the rear to machine plate for the front odf the hosing so we could then turn it around on the lathe and machine the rear to suit the torqueflite trans. If it has runout it was put there by Toyota.

I only see the need to recalibrate CNC equipment as good old fashioned lathes (and this is where 99% of adaptors are machined) will maintain their accuracy for years.

By the way Cowboy I'm not agreeing with you. Countless thousands of transmissions have been adapted to an equal number of engines with only rare blow ups due to alignment. The main reason flywheels leave engines is overreving cast flywheels, re-drilling flywheels, unbalanced clutch/flywheel assemblies and modified bellhousings. People who cut holes in bellhousing (for clutch forks) are skating on thin ice in my opinion.

 

[mycarhasposessedme]

That Pie van is Gold.
Some top quality work going on there?
Site should be dedicated to what not to do on your motor vehicle.

 

[cowboy bebop]

You guys can chalk it out and eyeball it if you want to, just don't say jack about "proven" items anymore from here on out. Because the "good enough" method is about as Mickey Mouse as you can get. I prefer to have it right the first time, I wish you guys agreed with me.

Eric

 

[turboandrew]

Guys, if you are going to do the "old method", to trace or transfer milling/drilling points, at the very least have the rear of the engine pointing up, then the adapter plate on top, then the tranny on top of that, centered with the input shaft. Do -not- put all this together (for purposes of tracing the plate) with all parts laying horizontally. The weight of the transmission will preload the input shaft and get you misaligned right from the start. Even if you support the tranny, you will likely have too much support or too little, preloading the input shaft up or down. If you stack them one on top of another, gravity will not be affecting the alignment. Ideally you will still find the "slop" and center it perfectly, but at least gravity will not have an influence.

 

[prosa63]

I Have Pictures Will Post Tonight.

 

[prosa63]

Hello gentlemen

Thanks to one of the members on the forum I now know how
to shrink pictures.
I have the photos I promised with the adaptor

So here goes

 

[prosa63]

Hey Eric do the pictures say a thousand words?

If any body out there needs any info or a price on one of these i can help.



I am not interested in making this a commercial venture but would like to recoup some of the money i spent having the program written.

Also I can cater for the people that are fitting powerglides into Lexus vehicles.

(As you guys already know the engine does not sit level in the car have a look at the tin part of the sump.)

 

[Lextreme II]

I am not interested in making this a commercial venture but would like to recoup some of the money i spent having the program written.[/font]

Nice work! Top notch craftsmanship. I am sure someone in this thread will PM you to get this produce.

 

[prosa63]

Thanks lextreme

Nice to hear some positive words



I do not design or make a component for my race car that is not going to handle big horsepower.

With this car I want to see 140+ mph.

If I think a component is not up to the task then it’s not used.



Thanks Steve

 

[Zuffen]

Steve,

The Forum rules require you to show the adaptor works correctly before you can advertise or look for sales.

Some photos of it in the car would help together with confirmation it runs OK.

Not trying to stop you just reconfirming the rules.