I don't mind the stress cracks, you can still run 'em. Just need to keep checking things depending on how long the race is. This year we're only running dual 7 hr races, so we can probably get another 7 hours out of our pads and rotors, and check them after. I'll look into the R4S, we might try some new rear pads.
How'd you do your calculation?
Yeah we've talked about making our software for a cheap PLC to control the solenoids, but we've never gotten around to actually doing the work. I'd love to have a rally style sequential shifter, rather then paddles. I agree on the 2-3 gap, our low speed acceleration is awful. The 4.27 gears made it less bad, but any car with a manual trans still pulls on us to start.
Trans is still stinky... we don't start passing people in earnest until 3rd kicks in. Any idea if its possible to swap the 4 lower gears from the 5 speed into the 4 speed? I don't care about having 5 speeds, but like the spread on that trans.
Also, what are auto trans failure modes (I don't know autos)? We had it not go into third for a lap, but then worked after that. Could that happen if we overfilled the trans? We had it too full, but I couldn't read it on the damn dipstick.
I didn't have much rotor wear, just the cracks. They are minor, but a lot of em. Didn't get them with the original brakes, but we are faster now, so lots more heat stress. I ordered some new rotors just in case, but will run them again most likely. Front pads are probably good for another event too. I forgot to measure them new, so not sure how much we used. I'll get a spare set of those too just in case.
On tire size, I wasn't scientific, but used the following criteria:
> Smallest diameter possible to improve gearing
> Lightest weight possible at the grip balance I want
> Stagger front and rear width to balance handling (oversteers now)
> Minimum rolling drag possible while getting the grip I want
> Balance power & grip. Over-tiring just wastes money, but with the 225's we have more power than grip, so I want to sneak up on it until they balance out. (kind of like control harmonization in an airplane)
Its actually pretty close on the 225's in front, but not in the rear, hence only going 235 in the front, but 255 in the back (8 & 9" wheels, and 1/2" spacers if they will fit). I also get more left side wear (natural consequence of track design) and the right side is perfect, so I'll run an asymmetric alignment with 1/4-1/2 degree more camber on the left (if there's any adjustment left), and possibly more caster on both sides. Suspension tuning is kinda my "thing", and we are darn close now. 3 of the 4 shocks are blown and it still handles great. I might try and drill those, change the oil and weld em back up, but not until I try out the new wheels and tires.