well..it took awhile..
on the learn all about the 1uz-fe ecu how it works quest discovered what could be causing this once warm..
once warm, this eliminated all the cold start crts, ie temp sensor,afm(as works when cold)ecu (note see further down)etc..
leaving idle crt and once warm bits..tps.iacv.egr.air leaks.tb.etc.
tps.no not that you can "feel" it working ie coming off idle.
tb.cleaned it anyway cant see how that would effect it anyway..
air leaks..get real,where from,all checked (do have sequential gas injection,manifold has been off,but who reuses old gaskets
??)egr. blanked off..not that then
iacv..well that should have been main culprit..1995 so not rebuildable..
OH YES IT IS..so rebuilt it ..no cure..fitted known good 1991 one once i rebuilt that too..no change..then iacv stopped working..this due to 91 iacv not compatable with 95 ecu..different impedence coils in stepper motor i think causing ecu not to fire it properly??anyway reinstalled 95 iacv.
tried manual "air tap"in power steering idle up air crt (valve that would be fitted to power steerin pump ,though i have electric power steering)..now that worked for a few mins untill ecu worked out it was there and just shut the idle down again...so outed that..back to standard..
ecu..to test this i went in depth and rewired up all its idle control inputs..remember mine is a swap..in to a 1972 range rover..(manual)
this may be of use to people doing swaps using wiring dias found on this forum,ie the simple only need these wires..well you need (well dont need,but does help) a few extra connections to get the most out of the ecu..(if in swap)
nsw,bk,els,a/c..these control idle to.i connected them and could manually(by dissing them or connecting them to +12v or gnd)
nsw..needs to be floating,do not connect,if you do idle drops low(for use when in park or neutrel if standard,or if you want 600rpm tick over??)
bk, now connected to brake crt,changes the decelleration fueling curve and increases the iacv response..
els, now connected to electrical load,ie lights and coolling electric fans (both via diodes so dont back feed each other)this brings up idle a touch when goes high (sees +12v)
a/c..not connected on mine, no a/c, but if connected brings up idle for a little while to allow engine idle crt to compensate for extra load.needs to be grounded to increase idle (needs to go low when a./c is turned on)
all these work,so ecu good.
hmm whats left???stumped..
then..engine gave me a big clue by developing a tiny missfire when on gas on part load (intermittent).well not the plugs they are new...leads then, got to change them,cant have a missfire as well!!
£150ouch..wow...no change at all in smoothness of engine,sounds the same,goes the same, but idle crt all ok!!
bloody leads causing the problem all the time..
