Homemade Catch Can

[Lextreme II]

Got the idea from Toysme in our forum. I went to our local DIY superstore called Home Depot and got a Husky air compressor moisture filter/seperator. Its little small but will do the job.

I will runing both PCV outlet into a T (using 3/8") and enter the moisture filter. From the filter then it will inserted into the intake part of the turbo compressor. I will have some pictures later.

The total cost is about $18. The reason I didnt spend money on one of those brand name is because i needed a small seperator so I can install it near brake oil canister. I will have some pictures soon.

 

[Toysrme]

Ya those work really well!
I know you know, but for anyone else that doesn't:
The best way to connect them is to install a T going to vacuum.
On one side you go to intake manifold vacuum & install a 1-way check valve so boost does not pressureize the crnakcase.
On the other side you connect to pre-turbo intake to provide a tiny bit of vacuum while under boost.

 

[Lextreme II]

Here are some pictures of the home made pcv. I got tired of smelling fume when I drive my car. I also hated my clothes smell like gasoline everytime I drove the car.

The first picture shows the passenger side crank pressure vent via a 3/8" line. I turned the 90 elbow from the passenger side valve cover to verticle.


Second picture show the path of the passenger vent line. The redline indicates the path.


This picture shows the T of two vent lines into the filter.


Here is a better picture of the filter and its assocated lines.

 

[Lextreme II]

The outlet line is loop around few componants to make it look clean.


The path is pretty subtle and tried to make it look factory. I might T off that line and send part of the vent back to the intake again.


The vent outlet is loop back to the compressor intake.


This should solve the smelly fume issue.

 

[Lextreme II]

Here is a picture of the PCV plug and driver side vent line.

 

[Toysrme]

Looks good!

 

[jtjerry]

Lex, do you have pcv check valves on BOTH sides of engine or only on passenger side?
Jerry

 

[Lextreme II]

No I took both out and drove it for about 100 miles today and this little air compressor filter works awesome. Just love it. No more smoky hood, no more fume smell....... Cheap, easy and works great...... highly recommend this for anyone.

 

[SC400TT]

Great DIY, Dave...


Ryan

 

[xirforever]

Good job David, i was actually looking into getting a catchcan also, good DIY and spacesaver compared to the much larger ones sold everywhere else.

Has the holder been filling up with any fluids?

 

[Lextreme II]

No.. not at all...... Basically its very clean... this little giant will last a long time before filling up. I would assume about 1500 to 2000 miles before filling up. There is a little bicycle style valve u can push to release the oil or you can unscrew it too. Dont worry about filling up. I drove about 100 miles, i dont even see any oil in the can.

 

[MWP]

Your setup is incorrect for a proper PCV system.

You should have PCV valves on each cam cover (hard to see if you do or not), and the pipe from the side of the separator should not go to the intake before the TB, it should be after the TB (ie, where it was originally that you now have plugged).

The PCV valves will stop boost entering the crankcase, and will open under high-vacuum conditions (idle or off-throttle) to suck the contaminated air out of the crankcase.

 

[Lextreme II]

MWP,

Thanks for the input. I am trying to picture your connection. Can you draw it out? I would like to learn too. What i found out about PCV in NA application is totally different from a FI application. I have pretty much tried every possibilities and this is the only one that work so far. I am interested to learn about your setup.

 

[MWP]

Just take the pipe that goes to your pod filter and connect it back up to the intake manifold.

You should make sure the PCV valves that you use are boost safe.
Would be a good idea to ditch the 1UZ items and use some off the factory turboed engine... like a 3S-GTE for example (if it has them, a lot of newer cars dont and use solenoids to control flow instead).

 

[Lextreme II]

If I re-route the pod filter back to the intake, then i would experience massive oil leak. It gotten so bad even my cam rear seals blow out. With seal bracket behind the seal, it would leak really bad. I used brand new oem and after market PCV but still have problem. I think the PCV works fine in NA, but not in FI. Even the PCV is fully closed, but for boost, it will force it open and boost or pressure will go to the crank case therefore creating masssive oil problem along with turbo smoking.

 

[MWP]

Well in that case you just need to find better PCV valves.

 

[cribbj]

Try the Supra TT PCV. It's normally fitted to the intake side cam cover and its outlet goes directly to the intake manifold plenum.

In the valley between the the cam covers there are two hoses that connect the exhaust cam cover to the intake, PLUS the exhaust cam cover is vented to the air intake, preturbo.

Toyota took a lot of care in venting the 2JZ-GTE crankcase for both NA and FI operation.

 

[Lextreme II]

John,

Do u know if the NA and FI PCV is the same part number from the Supra? It would be interesting to find out. However, I experienced very bad results for two years and finally try the method i mentioned above and working like a charm.

 

[cjsupra90]

its not boost that blowes a PCV valve open, actually boost forces it closed. The reason for a valve is in the event of a backfire through the intake. A back fire through the intake will force the valve to close just as boost will. This eliminates any possibility of igniting the fumes in the crakecase as they can be very volatile.

The problem is in the right (passanger) side valve cover. There is no PVC valve in that side from the factory. Easiest way to get around the issue of pressurizing the crankcase is to route the right side hose so that it is pre turbo or supercharger. The left (driver) side shoud be fine with the stock PCV valve hooked up to the intake as per stock.

It is best to have it as stated above, that way the crankcase is alway seeing vacuum as it does in totally stock configuration. The only difference from stock is the right side hose will go to the intake pipe before the turbo or supercharger and not to the underside of the throttle body. With it as the way that Lextreme has it, the crankcase is actually seeing atmospheric conditions and not vacuum at any given time.

 

[cribbj]

David, dunno if the NA and TT PCV's are the same P/N, but here are the P/N's for the TT motor:

PCV Grommet 90480-18001
PCV vent hose 12261-46031
PCV valve 12204-46020