Help with turbocharging my SC400 1UZ-FE

[spf_lexus]

When you say the engine is running badly, can you be more specific? What conditions are present for the engine to act up?

 

[mickesanda]

When you say the engine is running badly, can you be more specific? What conditions are present for the engine to act up?

Thx for replying, I noticed a typo in my earlier post, I meant WOT at 3000 RPM not 2000. Anyways, idling is rough and by that i mean that every 10 seconds or so a slight hesitation comes along, but it recovers from that and it smells unburnt fuel. When i'm cruising if I slightly press the gas pedal it chokes, however If i give it full gas then it seems to run a bit better.
Thanks to the new AFR/boost gauge I can also post a log for the last 3 hours of driving. I just need to connect the gauge to ignition signal in order for the log to be relevant. AEM has a log/data analyzer that can be downloaded for free. Just give me a few days to connect the ignition signal. I'm not sure where i can find it.
I also have the possibility to adjust fuel pressure, atm it reads around 20 PSI. I'm guessing that everything would return to normal if i put back original injectors, but then again we do want that extra fuel when the boost will increase to 6, 7 PSI.
I just received 8 x BKR8eix plugs, I'll replace them on Saturday.
I'll keep you posted
/Mike

 

[spf_lexus]

Since your running larger injectors, you could try this: swap back to stock injectors, install a 12:1 rising rate regulator and an OEM denso supra tt fuel pump. This will keep your AFR at idle/cruise in check but with enough fuel to support 6-7psi. A rising rate reg + pump shouldn't cost more than $250 or so. Your idle will smooth out and the hesitation will cease. I remember David installed bigger injectors on his supercharged LS and it barely idled it ran so rich. He had a standalone installed as a solution but this is obviously very costly. One more small thing: if the issue is still present with the OEM injectors installed, disconnect the MAF and re-start the car. If idle smooths out you likely have a bad MAF. Also ensure that the spark plugs are new and of the correct gap.

If your thinking about a piggyback, I have heard great things from the MAFT Pro. http://www.maftpro.com/ This will trim for larger injectors and converts the weak/leaking OEM MAF for a gm MAP sensor.

 

[stevechumo]

Sean is right on. If you're on a budget, try to put back the stock injectors and install the FMU 12:1 along with big fuel pump. That setup should handle 6-7 psi of boost with ease. It'll run smooth like stock with more power. I had that fuel setup and boosted at 9 psi for a long time without problem. I overboosted to 11 psi along with overheating and that's when the engine gave up.

 

[mickesanda]

Thank you for the good advice guys, stock injectors and a FMU is exactly what I'm going to do. I already ordered an injector repair kit, I'm not really sure about the FMU,-> any suggestions?
I already have an AFPR, it was pretty cheap, around 70 US$, it looks like this:

Do you think this one will do or shall i buy a Vortech or Blox?
If I'm keeping the existing one, what would the optimal fuel pressure be?
Can't tell you how happy I am for this solution, the change of ECU felt very uncertain.
This will give me the opportunity of driving my car this summer instead of waiting one more year.
P.S. This is what we do the last weekend of August every year, 2 km from my house in Stockholm:
2011: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TxhjfZ51rTg
2012: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0LHPdTWv_xM
/Mike

 

[spf_lexus]

I would personally go with the Vortech due to its reputation. I had a Synapse FMU that failed (torn diaphragm) and due to its poor design, caused an engine fire. Also, its best to use the OEM supra TT pump (255lph) as it works efficiently at high pressures (an FMU can crank fuel pressure over 100psi. From what I hear, the walbros do not like operating that high. Many call the FMU a bank aid fix but they just work. I ran my supercharged LS for more than a year with this setup and it was damn reliable. Steve ran even higher boost than me and for a longer time so you should be more than fine.

 

[mickesanda]

Also, its best to use the OEM supra TT pump (255lph) as it works efficiently at high pressures (an FMU can crank fuel pressure over 100psi. From what I hear, the walbros do not like operating that high.

Which one of these?
DENSO 9510003
DENSO 9500155
DENSO 9500110
http://www.densofuelpump.com/#
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumpguide.htm
/Mike

 

[spf_lexus]

I'm not too familiar with the part numbers. Here is a link to a denso for a 1997 supra TT:

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1997/toyota/supra/fuel_delivery/fuel_pump.html

 

[spf_lexus]

I also forgot to mention: the first result when the link is opened is for the TT. Look for 2JZGTE (2JZGE is N/A).

 

[mickesanda]

Back to stock injectors

I've done some work today, I changed back to stock injectors on the drivers side, I'll finish the other side tomorrow. I changed the spark plugs to colder iridium plugs BKR8eix.
I threw in the new Vortech pulley, 2.78" earlier today before i began the injector swap, but it only made things worse.
Here are the old spark plugs, it runs rich as h**l.

Stock injectors with new rubbers and new filters:

I cleaned the throttle body a little while I'm at it:

Sean, i'll order the Denso pump asap.
More to come tomorrow
/Mike

 

[mickesanda]

Hmmm....

I completed passengers side as well and started the engine. Unfortunately it didn't make any difference. Idle is the same as before, acceleration as bad as before.

Here is a short video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wq4xT2mK4fI
fuel pressure--> 40 PSI
I remembered that one of the O2 sensors (drivers side) is unplugged in favor of the wideband sensor. Can this cause such bad idle?
/Mike

 

[stevechumo]

If you have 4 big injectors and 4 OEM injectors, then the rich fuel issue still is still present. Removing the O2 sensor causes the check engine light, but I don't think it causes rough idle/running. First of all is to make sure the fuel isn't rich. You checked the sparkplugs and that's a good thing. Next is I'd think it's the MAF sensor issue. I tried to remove the MAF before, and the car barely ran.

As for the FMU choice, the difference between them is the rising rate FMU that automatically increases the fuel pressure by the ratio of 12:1 (should be used) or 10:1...etc. when it sees boost pressure. You don't need to adjust the pressure. It automatically does that for you. On the other hand, the adjustable regulator doesn't increase the pressure by the boost. It'll be a fix pressure once you adjust it. It doesn't help in this application.

 

[mickesanda]

Thx Steve, as far as i can see the car is running very rich, most of the time the AEM gauge shows 10, 12. I'll order a 12:1 FMU today. I stopped by at my friends garage today and we lifted the car in order to put back original O2 sensor. It turned out I didn't have it with me
The odd thing is that if i floor it, then it charges like a bat out of hell. Well not quite, at first it will choke a bit, but if i keep pressing the gas pedal then things happen.
I also have a question about the bypass valve.
The first one i had only let a lot of air out at idle

The second one was a little better but didn't really make any difference

The one that I have now doesn't let any any air blow by at idle and as far as i can tell not even when i release the gas pedal from WOT.

How should it work ?
/Mike

 

[mickesanda]

12:1 fmu

This is the one i ordered:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OBX-12-1-...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a2fee43f7

 

[mickesanda]

If you have 4 big injectors and 4 OEM injectors, then the rich fuel issue still is still present.

Steve, I think you misunderstood... I changed of course all 8 injectors back to stock, why would I do such a stupid thing as changing only half of them ?
/Mike

 

[stevechumo]

Steve, I think you misunderstood... I changed of course all 8 injectors back to stock, why would I do such a stupid thing as changing only half of them ?
/Mike

Yep. I misunderstood indeed. Lol. That FMU looks similar to what I used. You'll need to put the OEM fuel pressure regulator back to connect to this FMU.

If you still have the rich fuel issue, then let's go back and do 1 step at a time to find out where the issue is, such as using only OEM fuel regulator, OEM injectors, put back the O2 sensors, and finally check the MAF sensor and its wiring. If the MAF is loose, it can cause issue. While investigating, no need to boost it yet. Once it runs like normal, put on the FMU, A/F wideband...etc.

 

[mickesanda]

I'll stop by my friends garage tomorrow afternoon and put back stock O2 sensor and stock serpentine belt. I never removed stock fuel pressure regulator. btw, i realized that the picture i posted earlier with my aftermarket FPR wasn't right: my FPR is connected to vacuum, however it was not a 12:1 FMU. I hope the new one i ordered will do a better job. Thx Steve and all the others that are helping me with this project.
Even though I'm posting on the other forum as well, I receive most answers here on Lextreme.

P.S. I'm having trouble finding the right spot for welding an additional bung for the wideband sensor. Any suggestions? I'm talking stock exhaust manifolds now. It will be a while until I install my headers.
/Mike

 

[stevechumo]

For wideband sensor, it should be in front of any catalytic converter. Also, it should be where all 4 exhaust holes meet together, but not too close to the exhaust holes to avoid the concentrated heat that can damage the sensor. The good spot is where the stock sensor is. Make sure not to put it across the stock sensor, because it'll narrow the exhaust flow. Maybe slightly next to above or below the stock sensor.

 

[mickesanda]

I received my A/C pump a few days ago and i replaced it today, the old one was louder than a coffee grinder. My friend was so kind and let me use his A/C machine and filled the system with 900g gas.

I noticed that the A/C pipes are getting pretty hot and I'm afraid that i need an additional fan. I was thinking a 14" fan in front of the A/C condenser. That would be activated by the A/C pump via a relay. Any thoughts on that ?
I also installed the 12:1 FMU, here is the picture with it installed.

I noticed that my fuel pump is much louder now with the new FMU. Anybody know why?
Besides that no change in the way the car behaves :cry:

I drove today almost 80 kilometers to a car meet, almost 1500 cars, apart from the burnout show it was pretty boring.
/Mike

 

[stevechumo]

The A/C pipe shouldn't get hot if it's far out from the supercharger. Instead of adding another fan, you can wrap the pipe in some thermal insulator wrap to make it easy for you. I have a 14" fan in front of the AC condensor. lol. You'll need a separate relay if you'll add another fan.

The big fuel pump makes more noise than the stock pump. That's normal. My Walbro makes noticeable noise, although my last setup doesn't have the FMU. You can test it out to see if it's the FMU or the pump by disconnecting the FMU. However, I think the noise is just due to the big volumn pump itself. I heard of it a lot.