Engine build up
- Thread starter elliotaw
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The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
elliotaw
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What he said 
onder:
Elliot
onder: Elliot
elliotaw
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Managed to find time to complete the oil pump pickup pipe, strainer and tank baffle. Heres what it kinda looks like in the sump
The pickup pipe and strainer were made from a rear sumped lexus supplied for by David (thanks yet again). I had to cut the main long section in half and weld in a piece to make it long enough to reach my sump tank. It's a bit of a rough cut and shut, but not easy with the mig welding super thin guage steel tube. The baffle is made from scrap steel which used to be a 44 gallon drum lid. I drilled some holes in the plate to help flow the oil down into the tank, however I've no idea if they are big enough.... I couldnt find my baffle hole size calculator for some reason... suck it and see.
2nd picture shows a view of the undersize of the pickup. The strengthening rod on the top left was a socket set rack two days ago.....just hapens to be a close profile to the original 2 bars that were on the strainer.....
The support bar welded to the bottom was one of the guys at works tools this morning, but he doesnt work the same shift as me and he left it lying around on his toolbox .....so I err nicked it ! (Thanks very much Raul! you're a mate!)
Hope this thing works or i'll be up block creak
Elliot
The pickup pipe and strainer were made from a rear sumped lexus supplied for by David (thanks yet again). I had to cut the main long section in half and weld in a piece to make it long enough to reach my sump tank. It's a bit of a rough cut and shut, but not easy with the mig welding super thin guage steel tube. The baffle is made from scrap steel which used to be a 44 gallon drum lid. I drilled some holes in the plate to help flow the oil down into the tank, however I've no idea if they are big enough.... I couldnt find my baffle hole size calculator for some reason... suck it and see.
2nd picture shows a view of the undersize of the pickup. The strengthening rod on the top left was a socket set rack two days ago.....just hapens to be a close profile to the original 2 bars that were on the strainer.....
The support bar welded to the bottom was one of the guys at works tools this morning, but he doesnt work the same shift as me and he left it lying around on his toolbox .....so I err nicked it ! (Thanks very much Raul! you're a mate!)
Hope this thing works or i'll be up block creak
Elliot
Lextreme II
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Elliot,
What type of oil pump you will be using? The stock oil pump pipe is on the opposite side.
What type of oil pump you will be using? The stock oil pump pipe is on the opposite side.
elliotaw
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Are sure? The pickup pipe I've made bolts up perfectly to the oil pump and the bottom of the engine block.
Elliot
Elliot
Lextreme II
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You are right... sorry about that. I visualized as I install it. So the engine was flip over and therefore it was on the other side. Why do you think doctor operate on the wrong leg? When a patient is the exam facing up and when in the surgery room the patient lay face down and that is why they cut the wrong leg....LOL...
elliotaw
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I was hoping to mount the new sump to the engine early last week, but I was let down by the suppliers of the cork gasket material I ordered. It did finally arrive on wednesday evening and I immediately set about hand cutting the gasket using the sump as a template. I bolted up the sump to the engine and today (sunday) tightened it all up and filled it with fresh oil. I'm using a new oil made by Nulon. 10w 30 grade fully synthetic. It claims to be slipperier than any other oil and as its a new product, they are launching it cheap.....and being that I will probably have to do at least 3 oil changes during the run in period, reckon its a good choice.
I modified the dipstick with the 'bend it over the knee method' to make it fit. The top dipstick mount has been removed and rewelded into its new position.
2nd picture shows the mating faces of the sump and engine are nicely in alignment, apart from fettling with the hole size, the transmission should bolt up perfectly.
Elliot
I modified the dipstick with the 'bend it over the knee method' to make it fit. The top dipstick mount has been removed and rewelded into its new position.
2nd picture shows the mating faces of the sump and engine are nicely in alignment, apart from fettling with the hole size, the transmission should bolt up perfectly.
Elliot
elliotaw
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I've started putting my wiring diagram onto autocad. I have done it in 3 separate drawings so far. 1 showing the M48 wiring, 2 showing the engine wiring and 3 showing the starting and relay circuits.
I've attached fuzzy jpg's so you can kinda get an idea. Autocad files dont convert to jpg's to well. If anyone has a use for these files then I am more than happy to share them. It's taken me hours of work to do the wiring for this conversion and anyone out there considering a 1uz / M48 hookup may find these drawings invaluable.... ??
The drawings arent yet complete...but maybe 90% done.
Elliot
I've attached fuzzy jpg's so you can kinda get an idea. Autocad files dont convert to jpg's to well. If anyone has a use for these files then I am more than happy to share them. It's taken me hours of work to do the wiring for this conversion and anyone out there considering a 1uz / M48 hookup may find these drawings invaluable.... ??
The drawings arent yet complete...but maybe 90% done.
Elliot
krayn
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Elliot,
I take it this motor has been rebuilt. From what Ive read, 99% of engine builders do not recomend synthetic oils in the break in period. As the oil has so low friction properties the rings dont bed in properly. I would do some research first about using synthetics in a rebuilt motor. Cheers kris..
I take it this motor has been rebuilt. From what Ive read, 99% of engine builders do not recomend synthetic oils in the break in period. As the oil has so low friction properties the rings dont bed in properly. I would do some research first about using synthetics in a rebuilt motor. Cheers kris..
elliotaw
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I agree with the view on synthetic oils for running in an engine, I've heard a few people say the same thing. The new Nulon engine oil I have is designed to have much lower friction than its competitors. I think from memory about 36 percent less. What does everyone else think ?
Elliot
Elliot
JustenGT8
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Def use a low grade mineral oil for 1st few hundred kms...in fact i do a change within the 1st few kms, then another after 200-500km. With n/a it's approx 500km and then full synth and rapidly building up to thrash time. I don't like boosting hard on the run in oil so with a turbo engine i switch to synth earlier and have a longer run up to thrash time.
elliotaw
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I've drained the synthetic oil from the sump now.... expensive flushing oil that was...hehe.
Filled it back up with mineral oil. Thanks for everyone's advice. I'm welding up an engine cradle so the motor can be securly held down along with the radiator, battery, fuel tank, ecu etc etc.....
Getting close to starting it now....well....trying to start it maybe ??
Elliot
Filled it back up with mineral oil. Thanks for everyone's advice. I'm welding up an engine cradle so the motor can be securly held down along with the radiator, battery, fuel tank, ecu etc etc.....
Getting close to starting it now....well....trying to start it maybe ??
Elliot
cjsupra90
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I have heard the same thing, yet many OEMs use synthetics from the factory and the motors (high performance at that) are fine. I know that chevrolete uses it in the Vette and has for years and there is no pre breakin on them except for about a 30 minute test run and still has the same oil in it when you get it (mobile 1 to be exact). And from my understanding all Porsche's are the same and I am sure many others.
My curiosity is how is this. Is there some form of additive that they are adding or what. According to chevy, no but maybe they aren't but mobile 1 is for them who knows.
My curiosity is how is this. Is there some form of additive that they are adding or what. According to chevy, no but maybe they aren't but mobile 1 is for them who knows.
JustenGT8
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It's a toughie eh....you don't want to do anything to risk your new build. The factory engines may be run in pre sale...even pre install? Certainly cams need the hardfacing run in? Could also be the difference between the factory build and a machinist's?
If you find a method that works stick with it i guess and the advice provided has been based on our past builds.
If you find a method that works stick with it i guess and the advice provided has been based on our past builds.
Lextreme II
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Please take some pictures of the engine cradle. I am trying to make one too.
elliotaw
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Will take some pics for you David, but dont get too excited. What I've made is very 'throw it together'. I only need the cradle for this one engine and maybe only for a few weeks just to get the engine running, then I'll cut it up and throw it away so no need to make something pretty...just functional.
Engine is nearly ready to start, just got to wire and plumb in the fuel pump this afternoon and turn the key.... Will see how I go as it's 35 degrees in the shade today...no idea how much hotter it is in the garage....depends if I accidentally find the beer fridge on the way to the car or not....
Elliot
Engine is nearly ready to start, just got to wire and plumb in the fuel pump this afternoon and turn the key.... Will see how I go as it's 35 degrees in the shade today...no idea how much hotter it is in the garage....depends if I accidentally find the beer fridge on the way to the car or not....
Elliot
Lextreme II
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Video please.... How about boardcast it live.....
elliotaw
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Not sure about the 'live' broadcast.... makes a bit hard to hide those "did I remember to torque up the crankshaft bolts properly" moments. I will try and video it though... It'll just be a very short run as i want the Motec guy to come round and go right over the software settings in case it decides to run lean or something horrible.
Elliot
Elliot
elliotaw
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Here's a few pics of the cradle and the mess of wiring and hoses
In the last picture from left to right :-
Oil sump non return valve.
Pre-start electric engine oil priming pump (fills and pressurises system to 80psi).
Map sensor
Motec M48 housed in 1uz housing
Oil pressure gauge
Relays and fuses
Anyway...enough of the boring stuff..click this .....>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLu-_UwGWRc
Ok...that wasnt that exciting.....butt watch my knee get incinerated at about 10 seconds in....lol !
It wont idle as you can see, but that's with a base program sent supplied by Motec...I think a lot of the data on the motec program needs changing....
Anyhoo.... it starts ! The beers are on me !
Elliot
In the last picture from left to right :-
Oil sump non return valve.
Pre-start electric engine oil priming pump (fills and pressurises system to 80psi).
Map sensor
Motec M48 housed in 1uz housing
Oil pressure gauge
Relays and fuses
Anyway...enough of the boring stuff..click this .....>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLu-_UwGWRc
Ok...that wasnt that exciting.....butt watch my knee get incinerated at about 10 seconds in....lol !
It wont idle as you can see, but that's with a base program sent supplied by Motec...I think a lot of the data on the motec program needs changing....
Anyhoo.... it starts ! The beers are on me !
Elliot
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