Egr Blocker Question?

[Memphis3]

There's no plug that is connected to EGR valve, the only one that can be anyhow related to EGR system is connected to EGR VSV. But when I disconnect it check engine light doesn’t flash. I'll try to make some photos later this week.

 

[V8_IS200_marcus]

Hi all i have looked over this, but my setup dont seem to be the same as this one, here are some pic,s of what i removed, could some one please tell me if this is right, as im unsure.... i have taken the pipe of the back of the intake!! thats now gone, as you can see i have all so done away with the one at the front and side, the front one has the plate in place, i just need to put the side one on! but as you can see from the pic, i have 4 plugs that was connected up to all that is now gone, 1 at the front and 3 at the side... what one needs the 10k resister.... also there are 2 vac/lines at the front what do i do with them, i know 1 go's to the blue vac/connect that you can see in the pic, but wheres the 2nd one go??


Front Pic.




Side pic,

 

[shajbot]

The plug has 6 inserts and the resistor only has 2 legs, which inserts in the plug do I connect them?

 

[spf_lexus]

dude it only has 2 pinholes...

 

[V8_IS200_marcus]

dude it only has 2 pinholes...

what has only 2 pinholes, if you look at the pic,s i posted i have 3 connecters what do i do with them ?? ( i know it sounds dumb to keep asking the Q) but i would not ask if i knew,

so from the pic,s i posted what connecter do i use, + have i taken to much of as i have 3 connecters that are not in use now!!

 

[spf_lexus]

From that picture it isn't the far left plug... the left 2 plugs are the onces you need to be concerned with. I cannot see enough to tell which one but try this:

Plug the resistor into the ends "two pinholes" and drive your car for a hundred miles or so, if no engine light you picked the right one, if an engine code just switch the resistor to the other one and unhook the battery for 10 minutes to reset the computer.

 

[mshawari1]

The front plug is for the ISC, and should not be blocked or removed for EGR.

The plugs in the side of the manifold leave them disconnected and see if you have any code.

them connect your 10K resistor if needed.

 

[V8_IS200_marcus]

The front plug is for the ISC, and should not be blocked or removed for EGR.

The plugs in the side of the manifold leave them disconnected and see if you have any code.

them connect your 10K resistor if needed.

you say the one at the front needs to be reconnected as thats for the ISC, ok i will do that, but i still have 3 plugs at the side, have i disconnected to much, as you guys are only talking about 2 plugs, do i need to reconnected the one thats at the side/front ?

thanks for your help guys

 

[spf_lexus]

My bad, I meant "the right 2 plugs" lol. If it's got 2 pinholes and is not throwing a code then thats it... just 2 choices. There's just nothing else to mess with.

YOU WILL HAVE LEFTOVER PLUGS LYING AROUND UNHOOKED! lol

 

[jtucci]

I hate to bring back a beaten subject, but I simply don't see the point of this on a motor that is not being tuned.

EGR works by recirculating a portion of an engine's exhaust gas back to the engine cylinders. Intermixing the incoming air with recirculated exhaust gas dilutes the mix with inert gas, lowering the adiabatic flame temperature and (in diesel engines) reducing the amount of excess oxygen. The exhaust gas also increases the specific heat capacity of the mix lowering the peak combustion temperature. Because NOx formation progresses much faster at high temperatures, EGR serves to limit the generation of NOx. NOx is primarily formed when a mix of nitrogen and oxygen is subjected to high temperatures.

At WOT, the EGR is not in use. The only way this would benefit your car is in partial throttle, but also only if the car is tuned properly. If you delete the EGR and the ECU believe it is functioning, it is functioning under the belief that the cylinder temperatures are lower. Once you remove the EGR, the temperatures actually will rise in the cylinders and the ECU will not adjust to add more fuel and detonation can occur.

I actually bought the kit years ago, but never installed it. I researched heavily. I believe this kit would be beneficial but if tuned to add the proper amount of fuel at partial throttle.

 

[spf_lexus]

Most of us run FI, and remove because it's a weakness of the system, wasn't engineered for boost period. As for stock tune small adjustments such as an EGR delete, full exhaust, minor head work will be adjusted by the stock computer, it can take small changes and trim A/F to suit but has a hard time dealing with a turbo, supercharger, etc. Adding super heated exhaust gas to the intake charge increases intake temps and lowers power potential. It's a very small variable for a stock system but as anyone knows lower temps= more hp.

Any time exhaust is mixed with ambient air it's heated, and increases susceptibility to detonation/pre ignition so for anyone looking for performance will see this as counter productive. The system was designed in the late 1970's to reduce emissions by taking unburned carbon and giving it a second chance to burn by the "recirculation". I have had stock motor... stock computer w/ blower for over 40,000 w/o any issues thus far.

 

[jtucci]

Thanks for the reply. Don't take these comments the wrong way, I am just trying to get more information.

First off, I totally agree on boosted motors that EGR along with PCV would be good ideas to bypass or remove. It helps stabilize boost through the RPM band since it is a function of vacuum and EGR uses vacuum.

Next up, everything I have read about exhaust gas recirculation states that this actually helps to LOWER cylinder temperatures. Therefore by removing it, you are raising the temperatures. This would result in a leaner condition, which can help make power, but as we all know TOO lean is dangerous. Generally speaking, most vehicles, especially ones in the early 90s, came from the factory VERY rich.

Lastly, the ECU will NOT be able to change and trim the A/F properly after EGR removal. You are 'fooling' the ECU by placing a resistor inline. The ECU acts as if the EGR is in place and functioning properly, so there is no way it is adding more fuel for the hotter cylinder temperatures.

Don't take these as dismisive, I know plenty of guys on here have been running these motors hard without EGR. I'm just having a hard time seeing exactly what the benefit would be especially since the EGR has no effect at WOT. Also the EGR valve acts as cooler, so I think there is a misunderstanding that HOT exhaust gases are being dumped into the intake. While they may be warmer than cool air, their not that hot, and also the system is designed to lower cylinder temperatures.

 

[V8_IS200_marcus]

I have removed the EGR, but i have 3 plugs at the side of the engine that are not being used now, i have not put the resistor in any of the plugs yet, as im unsure what one it gos in, could someone please point me to the right one,

Thanks

 

[4000GT]

Just an FYI, I dont use the idle control valve on the front. Never have any issues with idle. Runs mint from start up. I dont run the cold start injector either.

 

[V8_IS200_marcus]

Just an FYI, I dont use the idle control valve on the front. Never have any issues with idle. Runs mint from start up. I dont run the cold start injector either.

Hi mate, yea i unpluged that front plug 2 or 3 days ago to see how the engine would act, and it did not seem to upset the engine in any way, like i said i have the 3 plugs at the side of the engine not in use any more, and i dont have any codes from them yet!

 

[dsabc2867]

so is the egr kit something that would only be useful with headers? i would hate to purchase a product that would require me to purchase more expensive parts in order for it to work. thanks for any info on this.