Custom made sumps

[krayn]

Hi all,
Im in the process of making a mild steel sump very similar to castlemaine rod shops. Im getting a 10mm thick piece of flat plate, mild steel, cut out in the same profile as the face of the sump that bolts up to the bottom of the motor. Once I have this I can drill the holes in the right spot to bolt the sump plate up to the motor and then make up the rest of the sump out of 3mm mild steel sheet to the exact shape and dimentions that will fit in and arround my chassis and power steer rack and pinion. Drop me an email if anyone is interested in knowing more on how I made this. [email protected]. Thanks, Kris

 

[Dreamkiller]

Hey,
Im very interested as i need to custom make a sump also, and i dont have the equipment to weld aluminium so a steel one it is. I tried emailing you but something wrong with my out going mail.
When do you expect to get them, and how much?
Cheers, Tim

 

[evil_si]

i considered this with my project,
i used a 5mm plate profile cut to the sump shape, cost me $20 to supply steel and get profiled and i just drilled the holes my self, i was then just goin to construct it to suit also from 3mm mild steel plate.

now since i have alloy welding equipiment im just goin to modify the standard alloy unit as i dont need to change much to make it fit.

 

[krayn]

HI,
I have not yet got the plate back yet. Once I get it I can then get a quote to supply a certain amount from a laser profile cutting shop. Will keep you posted......

 

[Dreamkiller]

Krayn,
Ive drawn up the profile myself and will receive the lasercut plate next week, so I guess im out for yours. Ill be using 6mm plate, I think 10mm is a little bit too thick.
They quoted me $66, if you cant get one for a better price i can order another for you if you like?

 

[krayn]

At the moment Im making my own rear mount sump. Can any one tell me how either the crs or the factory rear mount sumps get the bolts that hold the torque converter to the flex plate in when the engine and trans are bolted up. From what the Auto rebuilder told me its best to fit the torque converter into the trans, then bolt up the auto to the motor then put the bolts back on that connects the flex plate to the torque converter. If it is not done in this sequence there is a chance that if the torque converter does not engage into the auto properly and you do the bolts up that hold the auto to the motor, the auto pump can be damaged and also the front auto seal is usually damaged.
My problem is that with a rear mount sump, there is no room to get at the converter/ flex plate bolts once the auto and engine are bolted up. I think that I will make a cut out in the bottom of the auto bell housing to get at the bolts, any ideas????????? Thanks Kris

 

[Zuffen]

If you look at the Toyota rear mount sump there is a gap between the trans mounts and the sump. It is not a true "rear" sump. It is "rearish" sump, if there is such a word.

You need to access the bolts on the flex plate to put it all together. There is no other way.

You need a 40mm gap (min) between the bulge of the sump and the flex plate to allow you to get a spanner in there.

 

[ozvenom]

The joys of fabrication.

Hi guys if you really need the sump right at the back just make it a 2 piece sump like standard ones in that you put on the top half then fit the trans then put on the pan last . you will still need about 15 - 20 mm for a flange to bolt the bottom on but that is the only way i can see it being done.
oz.

 

[Zuffen]

Or install the sump after the trans.

 

[krayn]

Thanks for the replys. Ive posted a few pics of the sump Im making. At the moment its bolted to a origional type mid sump while Im welding it together so warpage is minimised, but it will probably have the face milled when its finished. Im not real keen on fitting the sump after the trans is fitted as if I ever have to have the tranny out when its all finished it means the motor out and sump off. Good idea on having the sump split in two like the origional, I may have to go down that track. This sump Im making has 3mm sides and end plate to give it strength as I think the origional type of sump is also used for engine strength and also to to bolt the trans up to. The bottom of the sum will be made from 1.6mm. I needed to make it that wide as its the only way I could get the volume. I have calculated it will hold over 4.6 litres, the origional one held just on 4 litres. I could not make the bolge any further forward as my power steer rack is in the way, Cheers Kris......

 

[Zuffen]

Kris,

Why not weld a flange around your sump at the height you are at now.

Then make a bottom pan like the standard sump so you can get it off.

Give some thoght to removing the trans.

I would think it would be a bitch of a job from underneath when for not a lot more work you can pull the engine and trans so it is all easy to work on.

I know with my conversion I can get the engine out by itself but I can't get it back in unless it is connected to the trans.

It took longer to get just ythe engine out than the combined engine trans!

 

[krayn]

Here are some more pics, getting closer now. Just need now to dress it up and then have the face milled and paint it in 2 pac black. Are my baffels on the windage tray facing the right way, ie away from the crank shaft air direction. I also put trap doors on the inside baffel wall.

 

[Muzza_NZ]

Hi there Krayn,
please excuse my ignorance here, but the original sump had a flange for the bellhousing. My question is - are you going to provide any means of bolting the bottom of the bellhousing up to your new sump, or are you just going to blank it off? I'm wondering if it will be strong enough without that bottom part flange...

Muzz

 

[krayn]

Muzz, yes that job is next on the to do list, I forgot to include that in my last post. Does anyone know if crs sumps have provision to connect the bell housing to? kris

 

[mycarhasposessedme]

I have A rear mount CRS sump, It does not have provision for the lower bellhousing bolts.

 

[Zuffen]

I think if you look around many transmissions only fasten level with and above the crank line.

Look at Holdens and most British cars. We certainly are not talking cream of the crop with that lot but I don't recall too many Holdens dropping transmissions on the road for lack of fastneing.

 

[krayn]

I still think I will make provision for the bell housing to bolt up to the sump. It will only take a couple of hours.

 

[krayn]

I had the face of the sump machined today. It took them a coulpe of hours and cost me $88. Happy with that. The sump has now cost about $115 all up. Im going to paint it in 2 pack black soon and it will be all finished. Making this was a fair mission and if crs sell them for about $600, id say it would be worth the money, but having said that I would probably make my own again if I had to. Any Ideas on a sump gasket for it, Does it need one or just use silicon like the origional. I think I will make one out of cork......

 

[Zuffen]

Kris,

You would need an awfull large piece of gasket paper of cork to make a gasket.

You will notice the original "silicone" is actually a little more sophisticated than silicone. I fyou use silicone you may find whilst it leaks you may not be able to separate the sump from the engine.

I would use (and will during my sump swap) Worths Orange sealant.

All Porsche 911 engine cases are sealed with this where they separate down the centreline of the engine. They have been doing this for 40 years now so it must be the right product.

 

[Dreamkiller]

Ive nearly finished my custom sump as well. Looks similar to yours Kris.
Ide look at using Loctite, they also make a very good product for every situation.