Code 22

[George_R]

if it uses manual transmission and factory toyota ECU, tell it's in N or P

 

[Zuffen]

George,

Thanks for the suggestion but an hours Googling got me nowhere!

Could let me know how?

Thanks

 

[George_R]

... pm sent /

 

[Zuffen]

OK,

I did a couple of things this morning (retirement is great) with mixed results.

I fitted a tachometric relay on the fuel pump and it works as it should. I tried stalling the vehicle and the fuel pump stops, just as it supposed to. Thanks Jim and the instructions were easy to follow.

I also tackled the Code 42 problem by linking Pin 76 (NSW) to pin 69 (E1) and whilst I will say it seems to allow more advance in the ignition as the engine is much more responsive it didn't eliminate Code 42.

What I did find was I could drive for a few K's and not get a code if I didn't rev the engine beyond about 3,000rpm. This fits with the Toyota manual that says the check light sets after 2,800rpm and no speed signal received.

Looking at the schematics it appears the speed sensor is off pin 3 (SP2-) and pin 23 (SP2+) which look like they should be joined, or have a generated signal fed to them.

 

[George_R]

Once again it sounds weird, would be nice to borrow a scanner and see if ECU recognizes it's in N

I worked with lots of JZ and UZ ECU's dated ~1994-2004. Any of those would not check for both a/t speed sensors (donut and shaft), solenoids etc etc, when in N or P. You can disconnect the transmission, tell ECU it's in N and never have a single transmission-related code.

Try fitting a 1kOhm resistor between SP2+ and SP2-. It can be rated as low as 0.125Wt. Value may be between 500 Ohm and 10k Ohm.

 

[Zuffen]

Thanks George, I'll give it a try.

Unfortunately I won't get back to it until next week as my wife has me walking for the next 3 days in training for a 300km charity walk she is doing.

Why am I walking? Cause I'm married!

 

[George_R]

At least walking is good for your health, even maybe good enough to counter the harm inflicted by the marriage =)

 

[Zuffen]

Still no luck with the CEL.

Today I drove around 80klm and noted the following.

If the CEL comes on before the engine gets to 60degrees the idle remains around 1200rpm.

If the light comes on after it has reached operating temp the idle is around 7-800rpm.

If whilst idling I press the check light switch the idle drops around 100rpm.

The light appears to be triggered by engine RPM but only effects idle when it comes on with a cold engine.

I drove around 20klm at low revs (under 3,000rpm) and the car operated perfectly, until I gave it some stick and the light came on.

Do I have a unique problem?

 

[sideshow]

can u get cel to flash codes out

make sure the batt backup is powered all the time
if not the saved codes will be erased

 

[Zuffen]

Jim,

Yes it will flash a code.

I can do it with the engine running or off 9but ignition on) and I get code 42.

The battery supply is live all the time.

It doesn't seem to alter the way the car drives, other than the higher idle after a cold rev which sets the code.

 

[gloverman]

I have seen this before. It's been quite simple for me to solve by supplying the ECU with a speed sensor signal via SPD. Easy to do when fitting to a Toyota with a electronic speedo or a dash with a speed (4P) output. It will give the vehicle a speed cut on ECUs with that function so I flick a switch into the supply.
What kind of speedo does the Rangie have? Cable or Electonic?

 

[Zuffen]

Kelvin,

Funny you should say that as I thinking this morning that I should use the pulse from the Nissan speed sensor (I run a GQ Patrol 5 speed with electronic speedo) to feed the ECU and see what happens.

I was going to ask if it was a sine wave or Hall effect signal it was looking for but then I remembered from past posts the sensors on the transmission are all sine wave.

I'll give it a go and see what happens.

At least it has made me use my brain.

 

[George_R]

It's not the waveform that matters. I could fool 3rz-fe ECU with a square wave pulse per km converter the other day (the engine ran different gen a/t behind it, which has different pulses per rev)

Don't know about Nissans much, but Toyota wise, SPD / SP1 are square wave. The oldest !UZ's ran two driveshaft speed sensors , one being reluctor/sine and the other Hall effect/square

 

[Zuffen]

I'll give it a try with the sine wave and if that doesn't work I can arrange a hall effect signal if needed.

 

[gloverman]

These were indeed a square wave as George said but I don't know their trigger threshold so give it a try and see what happens.

 

[Zuffen]

I made a square wave transducer out of a Falcon ignition module for the electronic speedo in my last build (non-Lexus) and fitting it one the output flange of the transfer case wouldn't be too hard so I may just go straight to the Falcon gear.

 

[Zuffen]

After laying under the car for 15 minutes yesterday I decided I can't use the Falcon ignition module as the diameter of the reluctor wheel I would need to make/use is too big to fit through the sensor.

Browsing through an electronics catalogue I found a hall effect switch (UGN3503U) which can be mounted to sense the flange of the tail-shaft at the rear of the transfer case. One advantage is it weighs next to nothing so will be easy to mount as the support bracket doesn't need to support much weight.

The sensor needs 4.5 to 6volts to drive it and I can use a voltage regulator (7805/LM340T5) to drop 12 volts down to 4.5 volts which should keep the hall sensor happy.

The output from the sensor and the ground terminal then can be fed into the ECU through pins 3 & 23.

If anyone sees anything wrong with my theory please speak up as electronics isn't my strong suit.

 

[sideshow]

code 42 should not cause any issues

if u still are worried try joining the violet white wire to an injector output

I do this on some 20v 4ages when they have a 7500 rev limit
this allows them to rev abit over 8000

don't waste time on a 5v hall effect sensor
buy an automotive one that runs on 12vs

I don't understand why people build or make or buy 5 modules and fit one after the other
just to get the right outcome and to save some bucks

the automotive square wave sensors are called gear tooth sensor
they can be found ranging from 60 to 100 bucks
the Toyota speed sensor has a pull resistor internally

by the time u stuff around making brackets and shit just to mount the sensor
u might aswell buy a Dakota digital speedo module for 150 to 200 bucks
this will read your patrol speedo sensor pulse and convert it to square wave
and will also be adjustable

theres about 6 to 10 different brands of speedo/tacho modules u can buy these days

 

[sideshow]

haltech also have these tiny modules too that purely convert sine to square
they are about as big as your finger
I don't even bother buying sheit from jaycar these days that u need to build yourself
cause thru people I know we have everything we need and get it cheap enough

 

[Zuffen]

Jim,

Good advice and I'll take it.

Thanks.