90' 1UZFE, how much power?

[palle]

Hi Guys

I am a new user from Denmark, this is my first post.

I'm racing in a sport called Formula offroad(some kind off hill climb)
And until now i have been using a Volvo turbo engine(400bhp), because off the weight advantage(next to detroit cast iron anchers)

But now i have got a hold off a 1UZFE from 1990, which i hope will give me a bit more power, without too much weight suffer.
I dont know what car it has sat in, is there any way to figure that out?

I have heard some people say that the early model has stronger internals, than the newer ones?
How much power does the standard engine uphold?
What would be reasonnable for me to do, to get 500-550bhp (+100hp n2o?) without damaging the low end to much, and get a driveable engine?

I'm thinking of using twin turbo's, from a Porsche Cayenne turbo, and offcourse a standalone management system, with injectors from a supra turbo, intercooler, porting the head and new exhaust manifolds/headers!! they are dissastrous!!!
Perhaps grinding the cams?

I have read that lowering compression by shaving the head is not an option, so can i lower it by shaving the pistonheads?
Or is it 8 new pistons?


Thanks

Palle

NB. link to some formula offroad video, for those off you who dont know what it is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlGQCk39y84&eurl=http://www.formulaoffroad.se/media.htm

 

[Pro]

Hi Palle and welcome to Lextreme.com.

if you want to lower the static CR, do so with a piston change. there are plenty of piston/rod combos for sale on here. i would avoid modifying the head altogether, other than some port work.

if you keep the CR up and run lower boost (1bar) with good tuning then there is no reason why you can't have a good all rounder engine with useable low rpm manners.

have a gander through the site and most of your questions will be answered. there's also an option of grout filling the block up to the bottom of the water pump gallery to increase rigidity if you're chasing stupid power...

 

[palle]

Wow that was fast!

Thank you PRO!

I have been arond on the site, great site by the way!!

But from what i can read it has a cr on 10.5:1, isent that a bit rough to run 1bar on that cr?(headgaskets rods etc.)
Again im asking because i dont know a thing, about these engines yet, other than they are light and theres room for some ekstra power.

On my volvo i have made "o-rings" in the block, to support the headgasket, is that anyting i should do on this engine?

 

[XR8tt]

Four valve engines can run more compression..
Check what the Mustang Cobra engines run??
Mainly due to good exhaust scavenging..
Over 500 h.p you'll require better valve springs or over 15Lb boost..
The cam is the next to upgrade...
Being shim over bucket you are restricted to what cam can be used..
Unless you go with billet cam where the base circle is same as std..
Depends how far you want to go ??
A good port and some Cometic / MLS head gaskets with boost..
maybe alittle thicker to drop compression ??
But it plays havoc with cam timing etc...
I think the early 1UZ had 10 to 1...

 

[palle]

Thank you XR8tt

It was that kind of information i was looking for.

Better valvesprings? if thats so, i think i will grind the cam as well, while im at it anyway.
About the camgrinding, there is a guy here in Denmark who makes a very good job.
And he has been making new custom buckets before, so that shoud'nt be a problem.
I have also seen/made some costum buckets before, where you weld(with the right type of welding) on the inside of the bucket, then mill it out, so you can use the standard shims, quite some work, but you know, we can't help it.

How far i wish to go? i would like to have some good horsepower, and driveabillity, for a reasonnable amount of money, so i'm ready to do some work(and offcourse homework) for the satisfaction of doing it by your self(and saving money).
That does not mean that it's a lowbudget solution, but i wont use more money than nescassery, i'll rather use the time.


As i read this, then the internals would hold up to the power that i need?
As long as i change the valvesprings(and cam at the same time).
By the way, we only have peek power for a few seconds at the time, we dont push the engines over a long time, like you do, on a regular racetrack.

 

[palle]

Thank you XR8tt

It was that kind of information i was looking for.

That was not to keep others from giving their point of view, i can use all the info i can get.

For the moment i'm making a harness, for the engine and the perfect power management system.
I want to hear it roar, before i go any further.

I was just thinking about the info on the valvesprings, the thing is normally, in my world, is it the revs, that require stronger valvesprings???

 

[Fasteddie]

Yep, valvesprings for sure ! (eg. upgraded Supra TT springs...)
But he....look at the 1UZ from Justen....unopened and 540 rwhp....might want to go that route first ??!!:headbang:

 

[palle]

Yep, valvesprings for sure ! (eg. upgraded Supra TT springs...)
But he....look at the 1UZ from Justen....unopened and 540 rwhp....might want to go that route first ??!!:headbang:

Yes! Thats the way i will try at first, then i can upgrade along the way.

Thanks for the tip!

I have the 7mgte injectors, and tt's from a prosche cayenne turbo, so that will give me a few hours of work.

I will make a build tread, so you can see that my car is like most cars.

Palle

 

[Fasteddie]

...you might want to leave the block itself stock, but change to better springs, get a new headgasket and have the head inspected (new seals etc..) just to be on the safe side....
Other then that...just boost that 1UZ with the "better" rods like you have...and prove once again that that early 1UZ can make 500+ rwhp all day....
Good LUCK !

 

[palle]

Yeah you're probably right, but at the moment i just want to get it started up with my ECU, then look at the heads afterwords, knowing my self i'll probably not just look at heads? But maybee the grinder has to touch it??
That all depends on how things look, if there's some "coreshift" or any other annoying things, we'll have to take care of that naturely.

 

[chilkoot]

as far as the strength of the gen1 bottom end goes, it is the beefiest of the 1uz's.

IIRC the stock ECU will compensate for ~50% more fuel (~6psi) and one member on the LOC was up to 500HP crank on his stock bottom end (Justen) with extra fuel management. Added bonus, 1st gens are also non-interference.

In '95 the rods were slimmed down, from then on they didn't take to boost as well in stock form.

It came out of either an LS or an SC400. If it's a hydraulic fan it was an SC, if there's a fan clutch it's an LS (use pictures on the LexLS.com tutorials as a comparison).

 

[Zuffen]

Looks like some Celsiors got the hydro fan as well.

 

[palle]

as far as the strength of the gen1 bottom end goes, it is the beefiest of the 1uz's.

IIRC the stock ECU will compensate for ~50% more fuel (~6psi) and one member on the LOC was up to 500HP crank on his stock bottom end (Justen) with extra fuel management. Added bonus, 1st gens are also non-interference.

In '95 the rods were slimmed down, from then on they didn't take to boost as well in stock form.

It came out of either an LS or an SC400. If it's a hydraulic fan it was an SC, if there's a fan clutch it's an LS (use pictures on the LexLS.com tutorials as a comparison).

Thanks.

After looking at the pictures on LEXLS.COM, i dont think it's a Lexus, because it says Toyota on the valvecovers, unless the earky models still uses Toyota's logo on the engine?

I have a pitcure of the engine, taken the moment i saw it for the first time:

 

[chilkoot]

Toyota Celsior, it's a japanese LS400.

 

[palle]

Toyota Celsior, it's a japanese LS400.

Thank you.

I have heard that these engines can bear to break the T-Belt, without damaging the valves etc. is that true???
Not that i hope to ever find out, but just for (un)usefull info.

 

[ihiryu]

that's true, non interface motors

 

[och]

Holy crap, that is one INSANE video!!!

 

[palle]

that's true, non interface motors

Non interface motor?
What is that?

Holy crap, that is one INSANE video!!!

Hehe. you should see it in real life then (and hear the engines roar) i have been driven this for about 4years, and i'm still amazed from time to time.

 

[Jake Breyck]

Non interface motor?
What is that?

It means the piston and the valves never cross paths so if the timing belt breaks they will never hit eachother

there are some motors where the valve will travel lower then the top most part of the pistons travel, this is normally ok becouse the valve isnt trying to share the same space as the piston at the same time. but if the timing belt brakes then its likely that the piston will end up at its top most position wile the valve is at its lowest position this means bad news.

 

[gloverman]

That motor is unlikely to be a Celsior motor. If you give us a photo of the exhaust manifolds, sump and dipstick tube we should be able to identify it. From the top it looks more like a mid sump crown motor - Dipstick will go through the head. Which country was it imported from? Cheers