6 speed Getrag swap into a supercharged 97 SC400

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Well, another set back. The Part I made to center the throwout bearing is not going to work. I just realized that as the throwout bearing extends it can slide off the hub. I am making a new one that will be better anyway. I am convinced that the bearing needs to be held in place so it does not rub on the input shaft, wear and make noise. Pics once its done. Each step forward is 2 backwards.
 
Wow really neat.

So is the steel clutch surface just bolted through the flex plate on the same bolts that hold the flex pate in place (only longer bolts)?

What exactly is the clutch bolted to---flex plate or steel surface?

If I dont make sense it is because its been 3.4 years since I have did anything with a clutch. All I did then was take it off and put it back on.
 
Ah good times, I remember setting up my QM clutch and hydraulic release bearing just last month :) What a pain in the ass. We spun up a freemachining spacer on the back like you did and actually used a valve seat to spacer the bearing out more. So it was set up perfectly, and then ONLY 4th gear would slip! So weird all others were fine, remove gearbox and surface another 2mm off the spacer and no slipping. We cant explain it haha.

We geased the collar which slides over the spline...
 
Scott, awesome photo documentary! I'll probably be following you in a few months so am closely watching your progress with this QM setup.

I think you've just convinced me to pull the tranny and fit everything up in the machine shop before doing the actual swap in the car.
 
I hate it.

Not sure if its because of the small flywheel or what, but the twin rally plate QM setup sucks. Its very on / off, the drivetrain shudders because of the harsh engagement (though I am replacing some mounts to see if that helps), it chatters quite loudly, and squeaks after shifting...
 
Well, another set back. The Part I made to center the throwout bearing is not going to work. I just realized that as the throwout bearing extends it can slide off the hub. I am making a new one that will be better anyway. I am convinced that the bearing needs to be held in place so it does not rub on the input shaft, wear and make noise. Pics once its done. Each step forward is 2 backwards.
 
OK, I have a throw out bearing centering device. I feel really good about this one. I cant stress how important I feel it is that the throw out bearing stay centered. If it gets off center at all the input shaft will rub on the stationary center hub. Noise, heat, wear, and failure, did I mention its really important?

I had to come up with a way to hold it centered and retain it so it always pulls back off the clutch fingers.

Here is what machined.
DSCF0716.jpg
The back centers in the transmissions recess, I chamfered it to clear the trans gussets.
DSCF0718.jpg
DSCF0717.jpg
 
Wow really neat.

So is the steel clutch surface just bolted through the flex plate on the same bolts that hold the flex pate in place (only longer bolts)?

What exactly is the clutch bolted to---flex plate or steel surface?

If I dont make sense it is because its been 3.4 years since I have did anything with a clutch. All I did then was take it off and put it back on.

I bolts solid to the Flexplate bolts in the center right to the crank. Really just like a manual transmission flywheel would. The flex plate stays there just for the starter ring gear.

Ah good times, I remember setting up my QM clutch and hydraulic release bearing just last month :) What a pain in the ass. We spun up a freemachining spacer on the back like you did and actually used a valve seat to spacer the bearing out more. So it was set up perfectly, and then ONLY 4th gear would slip! So weird all others were fine, remove gearbox and surface another 2mm off the spacer and no slipping. We cant explain it haha.

We geased the collar which slides over the spline...

Yeah, I'm not looking forward to owning a throw out bearing that requires you to pull the tranny to set up the gap. I would love more info on yours, What is your overall impression of the QM clutch?

Scott, awesome photo documentary! I'll probably be following you in a few months so am closely watching your progress with this QM setup.

I think you've just convinced me to pull the tranny and fit everything up in the machine shop before doing the actual swap in the car.

Thanks! I can imagine doing all this on a motor in the car.
 
Well mine doesnt slip really at all... I was expecting some, but its really bad. If I was to do anything different while still using this clutch it would be to use a heavier flywheel.

PS my spacer free spins on a spigot we made on the input shaft... no bolts etc.
 
Well mine doesnt slip really at all... I was expecting some, but its really bad. If I was to do anything different while still using this clutch it would be to use a heavier flywheel.

Wow, deja vu. Reading between the lines, I'm guessing the car can't be launched unless you rev & dump? Can't let it out smoothly from a "normal" start without the car stalling? Starting off from an incline is nearly impossible without stalling?

I've been saying these things about my TRD Twin Disc for the last three years, and along with needing a heavier flywheel, perhaps the discs need refacing with something a bit more slippable, like organic or kevlar (as suggested by TurboAndrew). These multi-disc clutches with lightweight flywheels just aren't much fun to drive on the street.

Perhaps the best solution for the street is a standard heavy steel flywheel, and the largest diameter, single disc friction surface possible to hold the torque (a la Zuffen's clutch, also referred to as a "granny clutch" by Justen, hehehe). That or perhaps a carbon/carbon setup, which is $$$$.

One suggestion I can offer for these QM setups is to "tune" the hydraulic ratio between the master & slave cylinders. By increasing the diameter of the slave piston, and/or decreasing the diameter of the master, you can achieve less stroke of the slave for the same stroke of the master. In this way, the system can be made to "feel" more sensitive.

In other words, if your clutch bites really hard as soon as your foot is off the floor, maybe you're not using all the stroke of the master cylinder and/or you're overstroking the slave? I've always wondered about this when I hear about people "popping" the slave piston out of its cylinder on these hydraulic TOB setups.

I had my slave cylinder bored out 1/8" and it made a noticeable difference with my TRD clutch setup.

Obviously with a hydraulic throw out bearing, you probably can't adjust that side, so you'd have to work from the master cylinder side and sleeve that cylinder diameter down.

Here's a link for a gentleman who specialises in this type of work, and has already done three slave cylinders for me and at least two of my Supra buddies that I know about. His name is Joe Way, and his company is Sierra Specialties, Inc. A really nice guy who does very good work at reasonable prices:

http://www.brakecylinder.com
 
Cribbj,
That sounds like a great idea. The throw out bearing came with instructions that talk about puting a physical stop on the pedal to prevent over travle of the clutch fingers. that leads me to think that what you are saying makes a lot of sense. I have two clutch master cylinders, I may have to do a little experimenting. The last thing I want is a car that is not street friendly for cruising.
 
Perhaps the best solution for the street is a standard heavy steel flywheel, and the largest diameter, single disc friction surface possible to hold the torque

This is why I want to use the standard Supra clutch design, modified: An aftermarket Supra flywheel (or OEM might work) with a 1UZ ring gear grafted on, mounting bolt holes slotted a couple mm's outward, and then your choice of dozens on single clutch disc and pressure plate options, all with well known limits and feel. Also, stock throw-out bearing and fork should work without modification.

Scotturnot, the custom parts making is really amazing. I am impressed at how quickly you can turn these parts out!
 
Wow, all this is really making me question my clutch choice. I really Wish QM had a set of plates that drop in this clutch pack that were organic material. I may call them to see if they can do a one off set of plates.
 
Well no you dont have to rev and dump, you just cant get a nice engagement off the line. So it will shudder and bite.

I am using the smallest diameter master cylinder QM recommend using.

I think its all about the flywheel to be honest, other people using the clutch dont seem to have these issues.

I have plenty of freeboard in the pedal, it doesnt engage/disengage when just off the floor...
 
Who are these other people using the clutch? It would be good to hear some more feedback about it. It seems like a really good solution if it can be made to be driveable :eek5:
 


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