1UZFE + carburator = ?

[Peewee]

Very true that a carby setup looks cleaner.
But all you need to get 1UZ going, is a few fuses and 3 relays, which can EASILY be hidden in the cabin, under a seat, anywhere.
Then you mod the loom so instead of coming over one of the cam covers, it runs down the back of the motor, over the top of the gearbox, and into the cabin.
It would be barely visible.

You don't need an airbox either, you can just run an open pod filter.
Granted the AFM takes up room, and its hard to conceal the wires on that, but an aftermarket ecu, which runs a MAP sensor, is an easy way to get around this.

 

[ChrisV]

The setup your talking about it using the Lexus ECU?

If one were to use the EDIS-8 setup, driven by a megajolt, what parts would you need? Do you have to use the Ford crank trigger? Do you use the Lexus coilpacks or the Ford units?

 

[Peewee]

Sorry, yes, that was talking about the Lexus ECU.

I don't know anything about the EDIS setup.

 

[ChrisV]

Hmmm. I don't have a Lexus ECU, and the engine I bought has a chopped up wiring harness. MegaSquirt is still an iffy proposition.

Is there any more info on those carbed intake manifolds? Any source of used ones from racers moving on?

 

[Toysrme]

Stay EFI. You'll shoot yourself without it LoL!

#1 Megasquirt.
#2 Hell almost all of the advanced piggybacks that are really new & top tier & "yesterdays" top tier can function as stand alones too.
#3 all the other stand alones.

 

[ChrisV]

Stay EFI. You'll shoot yourself without it LoL!

#1 Megasquirt.
#2 Hell almost all of the advanced piggybacks that are really new & top tier & "yesterdays" top tier can function as stand alones too.
#3 all the other stand alones.

Like I said, the engine I have doesn't have all the bits already (no ECU, barely any wiring left, and even much of the intake is gone), the car it's going into is a 1963 model with no computers and barely any electrical system anyhow, and I've had much success with powerful, inexpensive, daily driven high performance carburated engines, like I pictured on the previous page.

This is what I have now:

I want it to run, but also be extremely simplified in a custom early '60s show car. It's not a daily driver, and it's not a race car.

I'm still working up what I'd need to make the Megasquirt work with what I have already, and I'm not going to spend a grand or more on just a computer designed to work in another car.

Also, being carbed, stock, the car has no EFI fuel pump or fuel return lines to the tank.

 

[shadetree]

Thanks for the suggestions.

After a little more research I'm intrigued by the Ford EDIS 8 ignition using this as a controller http://picasso.org/mjlj/ It adjusts the timing using a MAP sensor which is perfect for my application. Do you guys see any problem using the EDIS system? Any problems with using the wasted spark system?

I've also read up a little on MegaSquirt, I've never done any EFI tuning so I'm basically clueless. Could MS be used to control the stock injectors and what are the bare minumum sensors I would need to run the engine? MS could concievably run using the EDIS 8 ignition using the Ford 36 1 missing crank trigger. Also I wouldn't need the above ignition controller as MS could control the timing. What do you guys think about that? I see there is a lot of guys using MS and support for it, is anybody running it on a 1uz?

I will be using the Ford EDIS system on my project. I got the whole setup, EDIS module, 2 coil packs, VR sensor, trigger wheel, and plug wires for $141, shipped. Plus $150 for an assembled megajolt, you're looking at a pretty reasonable spark control system.

I think the 1uz looks extra sexy, without the big dizzies hanging off the front.

I will be using magasquirt 'n spark to control fuel and spark. I am going to make every effort to keep the engine bay as clean and bare as possible. I'm planning on hiding the ECU, relay box, and edis module in the passenger dash. I don't think it'll be too hard to keep it looking clean, as the only sensors that aren't on the intake mani are the coolant temp and O2 sensors. I think it's going to be harder to hide the brake lines and signal and light wires, than the engine harness.

 

[ChrisV]

shadetree, keep me updated on that progress, as that's exactly what I'm trying to do. I'm wanting to get rid of the outer serpentine belt, too, as the engine I have doesn't have an alternator (so I'm using a GM 1 wire setup like I did on that Ford 302 in my RX7) and I don't need power steering or and A/C pump.

I could hide the coils in the cowl and run the MSnS under the dash. I'd love to clean up the throttle body area, too. If it can be done easily and get rid of 90% of the engine wiring, and still run good, that's the ticket.

 

[Toysrme]

What he said.
All you really need to run any piggyback, or stand alone is any generic Ford, Chevy, Dodge parts. It's not like there is a whole big expencive list of things needed to get EFI setup.

 

[Pro]

he wants a carby guys - i think he's made it pretty clear.

i would keep the lower half of the inlet manifold and run 2 carbs (like small edelbrocks) for a real tuff look. a small and neat adaptor plate and you would be away.

use the EDIS ignition only witht he stock dizzies if you can and you're set.

 

[shadetree]

Ford EDIS (Electronic Distributorless Ignition System)

 

[Pro]

LOL my bad.

could you run the CBR individual coils with it?

 

[shadetree]

I don't know about bike individual coils....I wouldn't think so. EDIS is wasted spark, two plugs share the same coil. 4 coils for 8 plugs.

Relatively concise explanation:

http://www.megasquirt.info/ms2/EDIS.htm
"The EDIS system handles the complete task of crank/ignition synchronization as well as current control for the wasted-spark coils. It sends just one signal (PIP) to MegaSquirt-II, and receives just one signal (SAW) back. The desired amount of ignition advance is generated by MegaSquirt-II. The interface between the EDIS and MegaSquirt-II is extremely simple. There is one output signal (PIP) and one input signal (SAW) from the EDIS module MegaSquirt-II.

On all engines, the complementary coils are connected to the cylinders that are 360° (i.e., ½ of a 720° engine 'cycle') apart in the firing order. For example, the firing order for HO 5.0L and 351 engines is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. Connect cylinders 1 and 6 to the same coil, 3 and 5 to another coil, 7 and 4 to another coil, and 2 and 8 to the remaining coil. Note that the coils are packages in two groups of two coils (each of which fires 2 cylinders) in V8 applications.

The operation the EDIS system is very simple. The crankshaft is fitted with a 36-tooth wheel, with one tooth missing. The missing tooth indicates the exact position of the crankshaft to the EDIS. The EDIS system is a wasted-spark setup (i.e. two spark plugs fire which are separated by 360 "cycle-degrees" of a 4-cycle engine), so there is no synchronization with the camshaft. This means that one cylinder has its spark plug firing during the valve overlap period near top dead center, but because the pressures are so low and the charge is diluted by the exhaust gases, no ignition occurs. This spark is 'wasted' on a cylinder that isn't firing, and EDIS is referred to as a 'wasted spark' ignition system.

Near the crank wheel is a Variable-Reluctance (VR) sensor - this sensor produces a bipolar signal. The VR sensor is pointed at the center of the crank wheel, with a 0.030 to 0.060 inch gap (0.75 mm to 1.5 mm) to the crank wheel teeth."

Megajolt is a simplified version of megasquirt that only controls spark.

 

[SCV8]

How about a short plenum on top of the lower intake manifold, would be like a tunnel ram, maybe use a 390 Holley.
Or , use a pair of funky, older carbs as throttle bodies, keep the injectors, since they're hidden under the covers anyways.
Sounds like a cool project.

 

[ChrisV]

he wants a carby guys - i think he's made it pretty clear.

Well, whether I end up running a carb or EFI, I do want to get rid of the distributors. Looks much better! So at least the MegaJolt and the EDIS. Trying to clean up and simplify the whole engine, and probably end up removing all the extraneous covers and the like, and polishing up what's left.

 

[shadetree]

Fuel rail doesn't look too bad.

 

[jay21pee]

a carb'd setup would be nice for a hot-rodish setup.

 

[Peewee]

Fuel rail doesn't look too bad.

Only the 90-94 fuel rail is billet.
The 95-97 rail is cast alloy and doesn't look anywhere as nice.

 

[Pro]

do you have updates?

 

[SIMBAD]

I am the Australian agent for the Electromotive products. I still dont know why everyone that has never seen the product range has their head in the sand. Just in case you want proof it works look at the seven second lexus powered drag car in QLD Australia! It is the simpliest system to install and tune. The stock car guys in NZ know the real value of a quality product. Look at www.directignition.com download the workshop manual and buy one today for your 23T or what ever you are building. I am more than happy to assist with anyone all over the world that wants a little help

hi mate, im in sydney, whats the set up worth. its just for a burnout car. email [email protected]