1UZFE/2UZFE into a 2nd Gen 4Runner (U.S.)

[cebby]

Got a little more done today. Nice to be actually reassembling something. Today it was the engine. As you may recall I had stripped the TB, intake, and lower plenum so I could get at the starter to replace the contacts.

Put the coolant pipe back in place and was ready to tackle the injector/fuel rail seals. Had to pull the fuel rail assembly - easy as pie - 4 nuts.

Complete, as it came off the engine...


Fuel rail assembly removed


Fuel rail assembly (upsidedown)


Injector in the rail - these pull straight out pretty easily.

 

[cebby]

Rail with the injector removed.


Here's an injector removed from the rail. The grommet and insulator was pretty brittle. The o-ring was still pliable, but a couple of injectors came out very easily. There was a little leaking that predicated this teardown.


The injector with the old parts removed. From the left is the o-ring, the insulator, and the grommet.


Here's a side by side with the new part - notice how in the last pic that the grommet was all deformed.


P/N's (sold by each):

90301-07001 - O-Ring
23291-41010 - Insulator
90480-13005 - Grommet

 

[cebby]

I pulled the cam covers and cleaned them up nice in a parts washer (note to self, get parts washer for home shop).

They came out nice. Down the road after I've had this thing in and running for a while, I'll consider painting the covers and maybe the intake. Gotta head out to Lowes and find some rubber washers for the cam cover bolts. The old ones were shot.

All cleaned up...


Nice clean looking valvetrain...


It was good getting the intake back on:

 

[cebby]

Also discovered that the fan oilpump had another piece I could take off, so fabbing a coverplate to use the stock fan pump housing looks like it will work out.

Here's the other piece of the pump. I need to drive the pins out of the housing still.


Might not look like it, but there is ample clearance for a 1/4 coverplate with pulley attached.

 

[cebby]

Last but not least, I think I will likely be making a custom oilpan. This one came with a front sump and might work out, but I want to keep it a little lower in the frame if possible. Here's reference pics. I'd like to make it hug the diff like the one on the 3.0

The black part is steel, but the silver portion is aluminum.


The back part of the upper pan is also the attachment point for the bellhousing. I might have to rethink this...

 

[Muzza_NZ]

Excellent work Cebby,
for what it's worth, this is how my sump ended up: http://lextreme.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=939

I started with a couple of little mods, and eventually got really carried away - I wanted to retain the attachement point for the bellhousing, although some of the other conversions (and oil pans from CRS) don't bother... I figured it would be better to keep it as rigid as possible...

I just milled off the old sump and welded new 3mm ali on to it - stressed the ali a bit much and had to heat it and press it flat again (note the diagonal welds about 1/2 way along - I pressed it too much!)

Hope that helps,

Muzz

 

[cebby]

That would give me a good reason to break out the TIG, but man that's a lot of welding. Great pic of your engine mount too though.

Your pic for reference:


I'd prefer to bolt together as much of this as possible for future swappers here in the US. If it fits and I can get it cheap, I'll attempt the 2UZ route. Even if I need to modify the steel part of the pan, it would be much easier.

Here's the Landcruiser version I found over on a tricked out Tundra over at Tundrasolutions (pics by jjc).

 

[Muzza_NZ]

Cheers Cebby,
yeah if I did another one, I'd get the main sump flange plate and bellhousing attachments laser cut in steel and then just make it out of 1 or 2mm sheet.

The hard part I found with my one was fitting the baffles (as I only had a small opening at the bottom of the pan) In hindsight I should have mounted them directly off the block instead of integrating them into the pan itself...

I'd be real dubious as to whether the 1UZ and 2UZ sumps are interchangeable... There's bound to be diagrams on Lextreme somewhere...

Muzz

 

[cebby]

God do I love www.car-part.com. Located a 2UZ oilpan about 40 minutes from my house today.

Turns out, I also love stupid people. Some dimwit with an LX470 never changed the oil, so the engine seized. Good for me, bad for them. The boneyard swapped a rebuilt motor into the LX470 and had the seized one for parts.

I got some grea info out of all this and learned a few things.

#1 - the oilpan(s) and pickup tubes are interchangable between 1UZ and 2UZ (probably 3UZ also). Props to Budders On Marlin's board for suggesting this. There is an (*) though (nothing major more about this later)

Pulled the front sump to have a look at the top half and to take it with me. Matched it up at the yard.


Front sump steel pan:


Here's the front sump aluminum "ring"


Here they are side by side. The sludge filled one is the one off the LX470 (glad I have access to a parts washer).
​

 

[cebby]

Here's the (*). There's some sort of sensor on the 1UZ pan that doesn't appear to be used on the 2UZ. There's a knockout, but there aren't any mounting holes drilled/tapped. No big deal, I can drill/tap it. Not sure if I need the sensor or not.

​

#2 - the fan oil pump and idler assembly from the 1UZ and 2UZ are interchangable. Again, probably interchangable with the 3UZ also. This was better to spend $40 than to screw around trying to make my own or playing with shorter drive belts. I had already bought the standard 1UZ drive belt, so might as well use it.

​

#3 - the boneyard will still likely have the 2UZ intake and TB available when I tire of the 250 horses and want to bolt on a TRD blower.


In case folks are wondering, the reason for the 2UZ sump is for clearance. Notice all the room around the solid axle in the pics above. Since I'm heading this direction anyway, might as well plan for it. My thoughts (pre-axle swap) is that the 2UUZ pan will allow me to drop the motor down lower and to easily clear my steering/steering stabilizer. (I might be way off, but thats my theory anyway...) The other reason is that I'm much more comfortable customizing the 2UZ steel lower pan, then trying to TIG that cast alum like Muzz did on his. Hell, I could do a totally custom pan off of the 2UZ upper since I can get the flange pattern drawn up now and cut on the waterjet.

 

[Muzza_NZ]

Hi Cebby,
well I stand corrected, that's excellent news, I wish that I'd known that when I was doing mine - although in NZ there aren't that many 1UZs around, and even less 2UZs...

Keep up the good work,

Muzz

 

[Zuffen]

Cebby,

The sensor in the 1UZ pan is an oil level sensor. The SC400 and LS400 use them but not the Crown or LX470.

 

[cebby]

Rod - do I need to use the sensor? I'm sure my 4Runner guage package didn't have that feature... Any ill effects on other things if it just goes unconnected?

 

[cebby]

OK, who knows what sealant I'm supposed to use to attach the aluminum ring and the oil pan to the engine? What I pulled off appeared to be a silver sealant of some sort. Anyone know for sure? I'd prefer not to repeat my water pump escapades.

 

[Muzza_NZ]

Hi Cebby,
there was a good discussion in the following thread on which gasket sealant to use, have a look at -
http://lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1325&page=2&pp=20&highlight=gasket+sump
Summary - use Wurth or Toyota silicone gasket sealant, I used Wurth stuff, and its been brilliant.

Muzz

 

[Zuffen]

Cebby,

From what I understand the oil level gauge just turns the oil light on when it gets low.

Stops morons driving until it rattles.

I don't believe it is connected to the ECU in any way.

Check out the wiring diagram for the SC400 in the tech section. It will be there and will operate the same as your LS engine.

 

[cebby]

Thanks Rod - I'll dig into the diagram. Thanks for the info!!

Hey Muzz - I'm wondering if Wurth is a down under product only - haven't heard of it.

Is the Toyota stuff the black FIPG or the red stuff used on diffs and such? I actually have both. :headbang:

 

[Muzza_NZ]

Hi Cebby,
I'm not sure about the toyota stuff, but I'm assuming the red one...

FYI the Wurth USA website can be found here: http://www.wurthusa.com/project/en/topnavi/home/startpage_1.html (found off the Wurth.com website)

Muzz

 

[cebby]

FYI the Wurth USA website can be found here: http://www.wurthusa.com/project/en/topnavi/home/startpage_1.html (found off the Wurth.com website)

Muzz

That's a new one on me. I've never seen or heard of it before. I've gotta find that stuff.

 

[cebby]

I've got a silly question. I was trying to yank out my PCV on the cam cover and couldn't get it out. Is there a trick, or are they just stubborn?